Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you blowing gears or making loads of power? Standard GTS-T and GT-T boxes are very strong...

No cheap way about it if you want to uprate, will cost you a few grand for an uprated gearset...plus reconditioning and installation...are you prepared to spend that kind of money?

Give it up fool. Third gear is a common breakage in GTR boxes even in standard vehicles. Pushing 400kw with a heavy duty clutch during motorsport and you expect a non run-in reconditioned gearbox to hold up to that...you're dreaming.

Gearboxes and life expectancy are the length of a piece of string - you could get away with 600kw through a standard gearbox if all you do is drive to the shops and dyno days. Give it some stick and it's another story.

For the record GTS-T and GT-T boxes are known to be stronger than GTR boxes (excluding 6 speed) despite sharing similar internals.

Give it up fool. Third gear is a common breakage in GTR boxes even in standard vehicles. Pushing 400kw with a heavy duty clutch during motorsport and you expect a non run-in reconditioned gearbox to hold up to that...you're dreaming.

Gearboxes and life expectancy are the length of a piece of string - you could get away with 600kw through a standard gearbox if all you do is drive to the shops and dyno days. Give it some stick and it's another story.

For the record GTS-T and GT-T boxes are known to be stronger than GTR boxes (excluding 6 speed) despite sharing similar internals.

GTR & GTS-T boxes are pretty much the same.

They are not "weaker" as such, it's just the big RPM launch + 4WD = death with the added stress and usually 2nd or 3rd gets stripped.

For a daily driven GTR, that doesn't get treated to nasty launches and driven with some mechanical sympathy there is no reason you can't make 380rwkw and be fine.

That said, you never know the condition/life of the gearbox half the time so inherrantly you might not treat it poorly and it will still give up the ghost anyhow.

Given we are talking a GT-T here, my first post stands.

We are not talking about GTR's of which the answer isn't quite as simple.

Its not so much the power your making but the torque.

Being rwd youll have it easier then awd cars. running semi/full slicks will cause more issues. also if you have a harsh clutch that can play info things as well.

Finally (and what i believe is the biggest factor) if you drive like habbib at the local kabab shop, smashing the gears around. Even with none of the above, dont expect to be lucky.

Stress and bad driving have broken more gearboxes then hp.

i know of 2 broken GTST boxes in all the cars ive known

one was a wierd anomoloy, the other was Rb26 in ER34 RWD

ive been driving mine pretty hard with basic power for 7 years and its fine

no mashed cogs, no blow up box, no broky etc

the stock box in the GTST i reckon is bulletproof

go ask a WRX owner what they think of the std box in the WRX

GTR & GTS-T boxes are pretty much the same.

They are not "weaker" as such, it's just the big RPM launch + 4WD = death with the added stress and usually 2nd or 3rd gets stripped.

For a daily driven GTR, that doesn't get treated to nasty launches and driven with some mechanical sympathy there is no reason you can't make 380rwkw and be fine.

That said, you never know the condition/life of the gearbox half the time so inherrantly you might not treat it poorly and it will still give up the ghost anyhow.

Given we are talking a GT-T here, my first post stands.

We are not talking about GTR's of which the answer isn't quite as simple.

Sorry Ash the first part of my post was directed at xrotor, can see how you might have taken it directed at you given our quoting of power figures and statistics. Only reason I brought up GTR's is because of xrotor's post.

I've read it is the added stress of the transfer case on the output shaft responsible for the 3rd gear breakage in GTR boxes, but yes hard launches will do it in the lower gears. Rear wheel drive versions of a gearbox will always be stronger than all wheel drive (unless the all wheel drive has larger internals) because of less components and less things to turn. That is what I meant by the GTS-T box being stronger despite being similar.

thanks for the replies guys,

i knw that gear box's are strong i just dont wanna blow mine when am kicking it out here n there.

i got a mate with R34 who loves to kick it every where, now his gear box making all kinda of noises rattling, winding sound like a turbo lol.

i just dont want to have same problem, or is this normal when u thrash the gear box lol

It's normal when you thrash a gearbox for it to start making sounds after a while. Or any part of the car for that matter. There's a negative correlation between thrashing mechanical components and lifespan. Two options: drive it with care or fork out lots of dollars for more strength / replacement gearboxes :P

And yes Paul, WRX box = 2nd gear ripped off the mainshaft 90% of the time. Not cheap to fix them either!

or sounds like he loves to thrash it dumps / kicks the clutch every where lol

No, sounds like he does not know how to drive.

Simple as that.

Sorry mate but I've given my gearbox so much curry over 6 years and it's the same as it was the day i purchased it.

I've done over 100 passes with that gearbox, a good number of them with 370rwkw as well.

So you can imagine how easily my tyres turn on the street. I never miss a gear, clutch is always working 100% perfectly and i never change faster than the gearbox.

You mate does not know how to drive if it's making below 300rwkw and is failing.

No, sounds like he does not know how to drive.

Simple as that.

Sorry mate but I've given my gearbox so much curry over 6 years and it's the same as it was the day i purchased it.

I've done over 100 passes with that gearbox, a good number of them with 370rwkw as well.

So you can imagine how easily my tyres turn on the street. I never miss a gear, clutch is always working 100% perfectly and i never change faster than the gearbox.

You mate does not know how to drive if it's making below 300rwkw and is failing.

This is exactly what im talkin about birds, i had 300kw running low boost and bang! this time im going an OS set through a reputable business who know their shit, unlike some who knows everything about nothing.

Im pissed off with you more so that you charged 2k for a box outright and reco'ed my box that was f**ked!

You may one day do this to the wrong person :P

You have absolutely no idea what you are talking about, you make falsified claims, and that is why both Chasers and I told you where to go. For the record, even if you had standard power and a standard clutch and you came to me with a stripped gear I would still tell you where to go because it is NOT covered by warranty. No gearbox reconditioner, no matter how "reputable" will cover that damage under warranty. This is clearly explained on our invoice. If your mechanic, who purchased it from us, did not explain this to you clearly enough, then your issue is with him. If you have an issue with me, take it up with me outside of these forums using whatever avenues you would like to instead of trying to paint one side of a story here. End of discussion on the matter over these forums.

So the op is looking at 5K for the OS giken upgrade? I assume the alternative (PPG) is a similar price?

Sounds like it would be worth staying stock unless you know that you break standard gearboxes due to extreme power levels, and not poor driving technique :D

I am curious how much a standard + new sychro's rebuild is :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...