Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item Summary: r33 skyline turbo nissan skyline r33 gtst

Location: QLD: Brisbane

Condition: Used

Reason for Selling: want a change

Asking Price: 9500

Delivery Methods: PickUp

Contact Info: 0405591342

Extra Information:

hay guys up for sale it my nissan skyline, im selling due to wanting change and wanting to move. there for im wanting cash but will swap and wanting cash my way, depending on the offer of course. Skyline is pritty clean body apart from a small dent at rear which isnt really noticed. all oiles have been changed 200km ago. gear box has new hd clutch, the 5th sincro in the gear box is on its way out, i just double clutch 5th and have no problems. i put new spark plugs in last week. car is running round 200kw, car just needs new coil pack, new from super cheap i was quoted round $200, on boost there like $100.

car also comes with NSW rego till FEB 2010. with number plates WPN33R.

Nissan skyline 1996 s2

car located near ipswich

134km

manual

hd clutch 3000km old

front mount

adjustable coilovers height and soft or hard contact

slotted front rotors

slotted rear rotors will come in boot, machined just need installing

LSD

pod

gizzmo boost controller set on 10psi

3inch exhaust from turbo back in to a cannon.

after market rear and front speakers

sony head unit

blue and black hand brake and gear stick boots

tint

post-54527-1278312822_thumb.jpg

post-54527-1278312837_thumb.jpg

post-54527-1278312850_thumb.jpg

post-54527-1278312870_thumb.jpg

post-54527-1278312906_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327593-r33-skyline-turbo/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting.  Great info. thank you.  Give a few days to get that name plate.  I have a busy life most weeks.  I will be in touch.
    • Strange your posting about this being an issue. Move the harness or change your wheels or run more camber etc. Have the thing not touch the thing so it doesn't destroy the thing.  Short answer, no. Slightly longer answer, the factory fuel gauge is measuring resistance. You need to wire in the FPG fuel level sender into the original factory fuel level sender wiring.  I drew you a picture to explain this one The factory strainer is quite long, reaching down into the bottom of the tank. Safe bet your aftermarket fuel pump has a little baby sized strainer that probably doesn't even point down towards the bottom of the thank.  Solution, move the pump lower down in the tank, or fit a longer strainer, or do both. I did both, I've run my tank down to 5L remaining and the car still drove fine.   
    • S2/3 GT-R is the same as S2 GTS-t The SRS airbags module in under the centre console. The S1/S1.5 GTS-t and S1 GT-R had the module built into the steering wheel. FWIW, I have a S3 GT-R wheel in my S2 GTS-t shit box. Same airbag plug, airbag light goes on then off, meaning all systems are go. S3 GT-R has red stitching, that's about it.
    • Dumb question, but why would it matter if the wheel came off a car with hicas or not?
    • Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
×
×
  • Create New...