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Sorry to get off topic, but i need some adivce.

I am able to get a TRUST FMIC and piping straight from japan, at a cheaper price.

It is made for an R32 i have been told

I have an R32 Gts-t, with an R34 turbo running 10 and 13.6 psi, has a 2.5' full exhaust.

What size cooler should i get for best results? 600x300x70?

How much will this improve performance?

Cheers!

meshmesh...for what its worth i have driven a Rb25 with a 2530, PFc, and it had a 600 x 300 x 100 Trust tube & fin cooler, and the thing was still super responsive, it also had a Greddy plenum.

I cant see why this cooler (or similar dimensions) wouldnt be a good upgrade for a GTR with 300rwkws, as for new piping, the HKS/Trust piping kits looks the part, dont know if it really needs to be upgraded, i doubt its worth the money though.

Sorry meshmesh, I though I answered the question, let me be more specific

1. what size cooler?

600 X 300 X 115

2. brand? as each maker claims there name to fame eg: pressure drops, flows etc.

Greddy, tube and fin, they use cast end tanks with nice airlfow shape like the Standard GTR intercooler. Check around, the prices vary a lot, we buy from Nengun.

3. do i need new piping "?lbs pm @ ?litres of pipework"

No, standard GTR pipework is OK for your power target.

Hope that helps

Hi Flaps, a standard R33/R34 GTR intercooler would do the job for you. We see around 20 to 25 rwkw increase from using one on an R32 GTST RB20DET, if you maintain the same boost levels at the turbo ie; about 2 psi more at the plenum.

Hope that helps

Just while we are on GTR coolers, i have noticed that like my Type S cooler, the tubes used in the core are rather thin when compared to most other aftermarket cores i have seen... Hybrid, Plazmaman, Micks Metalcraft etc etc

A lot of ppl seem to ask about pressure drops, flow capability, affect on throttle response, but everyone seems to assume that as 'heat exchangers' they are all equal.

Is it just a case of give or take they are all equal, or is there somthing to Nissan and HKS using the tube thickness they do to ensure maximum heat transfer at a given power.

After all in order for heat exchangers to be effecient they need turbulent flow, not exactly desirable for good flow or low pressure drops...like all things in life its a compromise.

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Yeh Right! Between you & warspeed, you guys are too "SMART" for your own booSt's :)

What would this forum be without you guys, thanks heeps. Althought I'm still a little consofused about your formula, in time I'll try to work it out.

  • 1 month later...

Force, I think the Nissan GTR coolers vary slightly depending on which model GTR they came from. Not absolutely certain, but I think R32 cores have one less tube than R33 and R34. Also core thickness changes very slightly (5mm?) as well.

For all practical purposes they are really all the same, if you are thinking of adapting one to another car it does not really matter which one you use.

I am about to take delivery of a '97 R33 GTR which is currently completely stock. I am wanting to do some work to bring horsepower up for weekend track work and have been trying to get as much info regards mods as possible before spending wads of money. Many threads mention going for "as big a FMIC as possible" in the early stages to avoid having to continually upgrade as HP increases. I am unsure at this point, but it would appear from this thread (and please correct me if I am wrong) that the standard R33 GTR intercooler is probably up to the task for most mods.

Hi maccattack,

I'll quote SydneyKid, "Before I can work out whats best I need to know your hp target"

I'm in a similar position at the moment, but as a guide, the SydneyKid flowbenched a stock gtr cooler & they are good for around 300kw at the wheels. Your next bet is the Greedy 600x300x115 using stock piping.

Hey Meshmesh.

Thanks for your comments.

At this point aims are for a staged (ie: bit by bit) increase up to around 300Kw at the wheels. All reading to date seems to imply that cool air equals power, therefore start with the intercooler. In QLD quite often on track temps run high 30 degrees to early 40's, so therefor it is going to be fairly important to keep it as cool as I can. By the sounds of things, the existing cooler isn't bad (in fact quite good), but would chasing 300rwkw (taking into account the ambient temperatures on track) warrant going to a bigger cooler??

At this point aims are for a staged (ie: bit by bit) increase up to around 300Kw at the wheels.

Using stock turbos you'll be lucky to get 250-270~@wheels. If you decide on upgrading your turbos "N1, GT2530 etc", then you'll hit 300+

All reading to date seems to imply that cool air equals power, therefore start with the intercooler. In QLD quite often on track temps run high 30 degrees to early 40's, so therefor it is going to be fairly important to keep it as cool as I can.

COOL AIR EQUALS POWER... That's interesting, I'm so inclined to go with a Water Injection set up see www.h2oinjection.com (Not the water spray over the intercooler - although this will also help) working something out with skylinegeoff when I get around to it. Even though everything I read seems positive, my tuner is against it full stop. :confused:

I would hazard a guess that if running on days of high temp the a water injection set up should help, the only thing that seems to be standard across the board is avoid running WI before the turbo "as this can damage the blades over time".. still looking into it anyhow.

If turbo upgrades (which no doubt in the future will occur) are required, would the standard GTR intercooler be up to the task based on the resultant heat increases or would I need to increase the intercooler size or increase it's cooling capacity with something like the water injection or intercooler sprayer??

the only thing that seems to be standard across the board is avoid running WI before the turbo "as this can damage the blades over time"..

Do not do this, the turbine blades will erode in a suprisingly short amount of time, if not disintegrate.

It would be like running a car with no air filter and pouring in dirt on purpose, straight into the compressor. When a turbine blade is running, it doesnt matter what hits it, dirt or water or whatever, the result would be the same. Not good.

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