Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my car got broken into by the ****heads sliding a metal wire down my window seal near the boottom of where the pillar and the door leave a gap aroun 5mill big. best thing to do is to get a loud alarm, 3 point or more immobilizer and keep valubles and little eye candy out of sight.

The problem with skyline ownership is most theives want your car for parts/rebirth etc and not for joyriding.

Young pricks looking for a car to joyride in will be deterred straight away buy a steering lock as its easier to walk along to the next xe falcon/ commo etc that doesnt have one.

Skylines are not stolen by oppurtunists, they are targeted for theft and the sad story is if some c@nt really wants to take your car they will get it.

Professional car theives are just that, proffesionals, and it dont matter what gizmo you have on your pride and joy they have a way around it. Sad but true.

Ant to the commo owner who got towed away, I hear ya dude, my freind had his 200sx equipped with an alarm that engaged the brakes when activated get towed from a shopping centre in broad daylight. All he seen when he returned to the spot was 2 big skids where the tilt tray had dragged his car up.

Who would suspect though, think about it. Your in a shopping centre and you see a GTR getting pulled up onto a tilt tray. Most people would think " poor buggers getting his car repossessed "

How much is a tracking system?  

Initial Cost?

Install ?

Maintainance / yearly subscription?

Quicktrak is the only one I know of, it costs around $2000 to install and the yearly subscription fee is around $300. It comes with a 3 point immobiliser as well.

breaking into the car cannot be prevented unless you james bond it with a break-glass detonator.

seriously, regarding black-market parts, this is the goal of most thieves. they want to strip the car and sell the parts. and they want a fast and clean getaway. so don't give them the luxury of getting anywhere. use layers, as one guy suggests:

get a quick-release steering wheel. get a remote fuel pump switch. disconnect the battery. remove the plug wires. acquire a wheel "boot" and put it on the car.

not enough? thief wants to spend time fixing all of this? thief has a tow truck? well:

remove a wheel. park near a light post, chain car to post. drive skyline only to friend's houses or valet parking malls. figure it the f%ck out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...