Jump to content
SAU Community

Diff Seems To Be "grinding" When Turning Sharply

ClutchBurndout-:(
 Share

Recommended Posts

ClutchBurndout-:( Grand Master

ClutchBurndout-:(

Posted
Posted

hey all, i replaced my rooted diff with what i thought was a decent diff, and turns out that its acting up, i have no idea why it does it, but when i turn sharply, like when im taking off and turning sharply at the same time, the diff grinds and feels horrible, this is the only time it does it, so im thinking that it isnt slipping properly? from my understanding the lsd will slip under X torque to allow the wheels to spin differently, i filled the gearbox with LIMSLIP 90 penrite oil right to the filler hole.

any ideas on what its doing and how to fix it? (preferably oil based fixes :P)

cheers

lowbro Community Regular

lowbro

Posted
Posted

I have a Cusco 1.5MZ which was installed 2 wks ago as a replacement for my R34GTT OEM diff.

I am experiencing simliar type problems when in low rev range 1st, 2nd gear, tight turns, I experience a thump from the diff end, feels like it is rolling over inside itself in the diff housing.

I initially had Redline 75-90w shockproof lightweight oil in their one week ago, this weekend I changed to Royal Purple 85-140w with the additive, and I thought for the first hour of driving it felt so much better, until I did a tight turn and then the diff felt like it rolled over inside itself again and gave an almight thump sound. Now it does it more constatly. But when driving at speed it is silent and feels great and operates as it should.

I am also getting a lot of hard clunking from my shaft at low rev range gear change engaging the diff, but it is a 1 piece and I am trying to change back to 2 piece. I am wondering if the whole drivetrain needs to be adjusted to make everything a lot tighter for normal operation.

From my experience so far it is not your oil, it is your drive line that is the issue, prob needs to be tuned accordingly for correct operation if that is even possible.

What are other people views on this?

wlspn Proficient

wlspn

Posted
Posted
hey all, i replaced my rooted diff with what i thought was a decent diff, and turns out that its acting up, i have no idea why it does it, but when i turn sharply, like when im taking off and turning sharply at the same time, the diff grinds and feels horrible, this is the only time it does it, so im thinking that it isnt slipping properly? from my understanding the lsd will slip under X torque to allow the wheels to spin differently, i filled the gearbox with LIMSLIP 90 penrite oil right to the filler hole.

any ideas on what its doing and how to fix it? (preferably oil based fixes :P)

cheers

Did you replace the whole diff, housings & all? Or just fit an LSD centre in your own housing?

If centre only, who done the work?

Also what type of diff? Assuming it is a mechanical LSD type but 1-way, 1.5-way, 2-way? What manufacturer, etc?

ClutchBurndout-:( Grand Master

ClutchBurndout-:(

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did you replace the whole diff, housings & all? Or just fit an LSD centre in your own housing?

If centre only, who done the work?

Also what type of diff? Assuming it is a mechanical LSD type but 1-way, 1.5-way, 2-way? What manufacturer, etc?

it was a straight swap, the whole housing, with what im pretty sure is the exact same diff, from nissan, im not sure on what sort of diff it is, all i know is its an LSD :ph34r: but i assume that all r33 S1 GTST's have the same, i tried to figure it out but cant find the info anywhere

wlspn Proficient

wlspn

Posted
Posted

OK, first of all, if you have fitted a standard R33 GTST diff, although it's LSD, it is viscous, not mechanical LSD.

This means it uses a viscous (fluid) coupling to limit slip, rather than clutch-packs, etc like a mechanical LSD does.

With a viscous LSD I would not use specific LSD oil as that is meant for mech LSDs with clutch-packs, etc. Would just use a general 80w90 gear oil.

You are right in assuming that with a standard diff the wheels should be free to move at different speeds at low load, low torque.

Can you better describe the noise or feeling it's making? The more info, the easier to diagnose...

ClutchBurndout-:( Grand Master

ClutchBurndout-:(

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok, should i look into changing the oil?

its not so much a noise that you hear, but a feeling in the car, when turning, although the car still moves it feels like the diff is grinding something inside and feels VERY metal on metal inside the diff, it makes the car a bit hesitant to move, aka the car jutters slightly as you move

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Best Skyline ever

      By PranK · Posted

      But, do I have to? 😬
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      While doing my tailgate struts I found some rust. Also replaced my bonnet struts. Such a cool satisfaction with that job.
    • PranK
      Should I use rust converter on this?

      By PranK · Posted

      So I removed as much as I could from both sides. The shop vac did a great job of clearing 99% of it. I got it all as clean as I could and then absolutely drenched the whole lot in the rust converter. Tonight or tomorrow I'll hammer it again. The cavity must be close to 400mm in length and surprisingly I was able to get it right to the back.  I'll quickly reassemble and then pretend I never saw it. I'll post pics (for me to ignore later) soon.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      Yea she is a hoot to drive 
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have always resisted the urge to go silly. 8" wide wheels and street friendly spring rates? Check. (Let's not talk about the steadily increasing spread of spherical joints across my suspension!!) Stock turbo, run at 12 psi? Check. Lasted for~?10 years before it died. Highflow put on rather than seizing the opportunity to go G45. You don't need 300 rwkW, let alone the more massive numbers that seem to be essential these days, to have a car that is already way too powerful and fast for a streeter. ~250rwkW is fine. I've never exceeded 200, although I will sneak up above it if and when I manage to get my finger out and do what needs to be done to use the highflow's capacity. You don't need $10k worth of CF bits glued onto the outside. You don't need razor sharp ankle cutting front splitters. You don't need the car to be 2" off the ground. You don't need flawless paint, mirror finished wheels, brand new indicator lenses, etc etc. All these things just make the car impractical and will cause you pain when they get damaged, which is inevitable for a street car. A few nice additions are good. Good seats are good. A nice stereo is good. A/C is good! (46° on the road yesterday and my A/C is degassed again. Was moderately traumatic driving home!) The main reason I stick with a mildly modified old Skyline is that I have had it for >25 years, the mods are the rolling result of 25 years of things dying and being upgraded opportunistically, coupled with a few "just 'coz" ones. And I hate almost all modern cars. If I was a young buck starting out now.... I wouldn't bother. Cars have a few years left where there is any possibility of interest or fun. Thereafter there will be no such thing allowed or possible. Any time, money and effort spent now on a project would just be a waste.
×
×
  • Create New...