Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

I've got an R33 RB25DE+T (Stock RB25DET ECU and Injectors), with an AFC Neo piggy back and a wideband O2 Air/Fuel ratio + RPM datalogger (innovate).

I've had the car on the dyno before so i knew the fuel mixtures were way out, on my first run everything was spot on, the AFR's at RPM points match the dyno plot perfectly.

At light throttle with my cars lambda sensor disconnected the car ran at 10:1 AFR, which was fine - I was able to lean this to the 12's no issues whatsoever (took -20% on the AFC), this was my practice and everything was fine. So now I started to work on my massive lean spot at WOT (car lean spikes to 16:1 at 3000rpm), kept adding fuel up to +50% but it didn’t make any difference... Moving on from this I tried to adjust my rich spot up top (10:1 AFR from 5000 to 7000rpm) no matter how much fuel i pulled out of it, it just didn’t make any difference to fuel mixtures or the pull of the car. The AFC shows the correction (in the monitor mode), but it just doesn’t do anything... It's like the ecu is RPM mapped at those points... The more i lowered the boost (its at 10psi), the better the lean spike looked (~ 8psi brought it to 14:1).

Any ideas? The AFM in and out are both set to 1 is this correct? All wiring is perfect.

Cheers for any info, don’t tell me to take it to a tuner.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327734-apexi-afc-neo-safc-tuning-issues/
Share on other sites

I think I've found the issue (though not sure if it would cause my symptoms...?); I installed this based off this guide:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...3-G-t85232.html

Where is says set AFM IN and AFM OUT both to 1

But reading here: (Page 24)

http://www.scribd.com/doc/19576441/Apexi-I...-Wiring-Diagram

It says set both to 4.

I'm not sure if the AFC is different, or if it is wrong, or even if it will make any difference - I'll have to wait until I get home tonight.

Please still post if you have any other insights...

Have you made sure you've set your throttle position as you have to calibrate it for your car? As it sounds like the % for the hi map is screwed up. Should be around 35% that it switches

But yes iir it should be set at 4 both in and out.

Edited by jjskyline79

Yeah that’s set right, low throttle comes in at 0% and high throttle is at 40%.

I've tried moving the threshold higher to run of low throttle maps, but it doesn’t make a difference. Regardless it runs increasingly rich until around 45% throttle, then it leans right out.

Setting it to 4 & 4 didn’t make a difference. I randomly set one to 1 and one to 4 to test it and the car spluttered like expected, so it is working...

Here's a picture of my wideband log, RPM vs AFR, you can see the lean spot which i am trying to iron out....

post-18637-1278509906_thumb.png

I really hope not, can’t really fork out for full management. Everything is fine I just need to correct these fuel mixtures.

There must be a reason for this issue... Its not like I can’t adjust it any further, its simply just not making any difference to mixtures (even if I +50% it).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fuel tank is out. Looks pretty bloody good under (ie above) the fuel tank.  Amazing how good the factory e-coat holds up in the hidden areas.  No where near as much body deadener to get rid of as the front but still not looking forward to it!  Shit of a job.  I'm thinking I might grab a needle scaler and give that a go before I attack it with the angle grinder and wire wheel which is how I did the front 2/3's of the car.  Feels good to be working on the car again but who knows how long it will last!  Hopefully I can get it further forward than where it was prior to this last block of work when I decided to go back 10 steps further down the rabbit hole from where i already was! The problem is, I'm realising how hard it will be to repair and paint the bumpers, which cannot be put back on the car, and have a good paint match. There are also areas where it would be VERY hard to hide the new paint where it transitions from old paint. Like this- There is only one way to do that perfectly and I really dont want to have to do what that means I would have to do... 🤦‍♂️
    • Pretty sure the factory assembly doesn't have any gasket at all, just RTV.
    • I will get a couple cans for sure thanks, I do have 2lt fish oil to spray around the car already.
    • Thought I’d post pics of the packages for those interested. The premium package is #16. Remote start, security with tilt sensor and remote and backup battery, auto fold mirrors and door illumination.    Can post up pics of all the factory options and images from the factory options brochure if people are interested. I have all the dealer books etc for all rv37 models. 
    • After its dried out Penetrol is you friend to treat rust and seal up those seams 
×
×
  • Create New...