Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK,

For example, if i go full throttle in 2nd up to 6k rpm and change into 3rd and full throttle again, car will be really slow to come onto full boost again. it will hit 5psi and slowly creep up to 12psi in about 10sec.

if i do the same but do a slow gear change (about 5sec between gears) and plant it again boost comes on as normal.

car will also boost normal when going from partial to full throttle in any gear.

I thought it was a fuel delivery issue, so i replaced the fuel pump a couple of months ago and that seem to have fixed it. but now the problem is back again.

I have tested the fuel pressure and it does not go below 38psi during the above mentioned scenarios.

I have also run injector cleaner through it. twice

New plugs

New fuel filter

cleaned air filter.

another thing that has come back is rpm dips and rises. When im slowing down, for example going into drive way, when i put the clutch in and go into 1st gear the revs will sometimes drop below 500rpm and come back up again (sometimes it will stall). other times after start up it will sit up on 2000 rpm and will only drop back after i tap the accelerator.

ECU has code 55(no errors).

Car has the following mods:

K&N pod

FMIC

rb25 turbo

3" turbo back exhaust

running 12psi

walbro 255l fuel pump

Is the car just in need of a tune?

TPS dodgy?

thoughts?

maybe i have 2 separate issues here...?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327775-boost-issues-rb20det-idle-problem/
Share on other sites

SOLVED.

seems as thought the boost controller was stuffed. it was installed correctly.

Took it out and the car boosted quickly through the whole rev range. should of checked it sooner...

can only assume it was leaking causing idle issues and getting stuck after full boost during a quick gear change.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a fair chance that my bushes are Nismo, because I'm reasonably sure that when asked the question (when putting the subframe into the car in ~2012) "What bushes do you want to run?", I'm pretty sure I would have answered "The stiff ones!". I had to put some silicone grease onto the GKTech inserts I jammed into them last week, because the bushes were quite resistant to having something jammed up their jacksies. So, I reckon you'll be best off doing Nismo + inserts. And, if I'd known you had PU bushes in the subframe AND PU pineapples, I perhaps would have said earlier that that's probably not a good idea. The pineapples are only intended to work with the stock type bushes, because those have a crush tube (which is what makes it end up looking like there is sloppy space in there - but doesn't, because the crush tube does make contact steel to steel) and the pineapples live in the space between the subframe's outer tube and the lower washer/bracket. But the PU bushes don't leave the space in the same way that the stock format ones do, and they do end up fighting for space. Order some bushes and collars and get to it.
    • Thats the current state of the reo. Bit ew, but GTR Reo and supporting bars are $2000, and 2nd hand GTT ones are $1000... More engine disassembly. The good news is   Various LS weird sounds are apparently normal Everything coming out is in perfect condition The bad news is: Everything coming out is in perfect condition It looks like whoever assembled this engine ~25,000km ago was telling the truth with what's in it and how they did it. Even things I was unsure of like the timing chain - But it's a brand new double row timing chain, spaced perfectly. They even cut up the stock windage tray to keep it instead of being lazy and to work with the baffle. Cam, Heads, springs, LS7 lifters, Pushrods - All look new and have obviously been working perfectly. In other news, we removed the pineapples that were loaded below the superpro subframe bushes. They look a fair bit munted and have deformed the poly bushes that are 'above' them. I'm telling myself that now that there's space 'under' the bush between the little cup that bolts in... that having a pineapple wedged there was bad and basically made the rear end solid. The pineapple and the superpro bush are ... equally deformed (i.e they have deformed one another from being smashed together). We'll see how it goes with bushes only. I am sure this cope will fail and the answer will be to drop the subframe and put nismo rubber bushes in there instead. $400 worth of gaskets and ARP head bolts to replace perfectly new looking gaskets that absolutely weren't leaking  and were installed perfectly with great care - because god damnit.    
    • Why bother? Keep them under 1bar and be happy, I had it for 10 years and never had an issue. once you go beyond that the budget blows out fast and then keeps on blowing out 
    • I'd still recommend rebuilding the turbos too. That will eat up a lot of the budget especially if you aren't willing to put in the labor to R&R the turbos yourself but it's a huge risk to ignore it at this point.
    • Can't help it, its an illness. 
×
×
  • Create New...