Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

why would i be getting hesitation on boost? i can switch between 10 and 13 psi. there are no problems at all before the turbo starts spooling and hitting boost. but as soon as the turbo starts kicking in at around 3000rpm there is hesitation and lack of power.

i am running bcpr7es-8 ngk copper plugs. should i be running bcpr6es-8 instead with my boost? the plugs are new btw.

ive checked for leaks, nothing wrong there... i have new splitfire coilpacks. timing is at 15

could the tps be causing a problem like this?

any help would be appreciated.

thank you

Edited by rayj
Did you mess with the plug gaps at all? As in, did you open them up or something silly?....When did it start missing? After you changed the plugs?

i didnt mess with them. all 6 are brand new gapped at .8. the car isnt misfiring at all. ther basically isnt any power on boost, u can hear the turbo spooling up, but instead of feeling the power kicking in, the car hesitates/stumbles. this only happens in the rev range when the turbo starts kicking in, otherwise it drives perfectly.

ive also noticed that if i gradually accelerate this hesitation/stumbling goes away. but if i hit the accelerator hard, then u can definately feel the problem, the car basically gets no kick from the turbo.

im running a standard ecu which has been tuned

LOLLLL

What the hell did you expect?

Get an aftermarket ecu, nistune or someone with a real time tuning board to make an epprom chip up for you on a dyno. Oh and obviously pay someone to actually tune it properly, don't get a cheapskate $200 tune.

Edited by Rolls

hey mate when it does its little spit, say youre on full throttle at about 3500-4500, does it feel like the cars pulling a caravan then once it gets up to say 5500 and beyond it clears up and makes full boost?

LOLLLL

What the hell did you expect?

Get an aftermarket ecu, nistune or someone with a real time tuning board to make an epprom chip up for you on a dyno. Oh and obviously pay someone to actually tune it properly, don't get a cheapskate $200 tune.

You do not know what he means by 'tuned', thus should not be jumping to conclusions.

The RB20 ecu has a socket for a rom chip that can be tuned (painfully) as well as any other daughterboard modified ecu.

To the OP, recheck your works and try installing the actuator from the turbo you removed and running stock boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nissan/Pitwork is fine stuff. HKS is just marketing wank. I personally wouldn't do the idler if it is already new. If it looks and feels fine, it is fine. But as D says - it's cheap to add it to the job. The water pump ditto. Even more so. If it show no signs of problems, then it is nearly new - leave it.
    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...