Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  L-Plater said:
Little harsh up top there. All been in good faith mate.

I'm becoming a little skeptical of my mates mechanical ability. I have put my trust in someone that has completed their apprenticeship + TAFE to know what they're on about, but having realised that I can install the pod filter myself.. im a bit suss of him.

The forums have been great, and a good way to source advice, parts & knowledge :D

Anyway, not important. What I'm looking for is a way to unbolt the AFM, seeing as the bottom bolts are impossible to reach :D

Already got my clamps, pod cleaned/oiled up & adaptor all ready to go, just got to get the bloody thing off

If I'm bored this arvo I might take my shit apart and post back with results.

oookayy... I can't edit my post.

That golden ring is bending like a mother f**ker... really, only thing I can think of is unbolting it regardless of the damage to it, and picking up another one from somewhere.

Edited by SKITTLES

WHAT A f**k AROUND.

Just been outside for the last 2 hours w/the old man attempting to fit it.

Main areas of concern being the filter being ridiculously hard to fit to the adaptor, its on to a point where it's not going to fall off but if I clamped it i'd be clamping onto nothing

The pods got nothing to stand on, its just chilling resting on top of the pipe underneath.

And the presence of a gap between the adaptor gasket and the adaptor, along each long side. Im worried that this will suck air in, there's no way for me to tighten it.

The golden ring thing is still attached, not sure if it's meant to stay on or not.

Love anyone who knows what they're doing to help me out :P

ok... i think you didnt need to oil that filter. im pretty sure its a dry filter...

the filter. goes on to the adaptor... the adaptor bolts on to the afm... you have to make sure you have the right adaptor.

which means take your afm. go to autobarn or super cheap. get them to give you an adaptor to match.

even if the holes on the adaptor are too far apart. you can always drill new ones.

there should be a rubber o-ring on the face of the afm (if im correct) this should seal the air.

of the bottom bolts of the afm are hard to reach. take out the rubber pipe that the afm is connected to. the one that goes to the turbo... i know that seems like "wtf" but sometimes you hafta do it. just for unbolting the afm.

once you have the adaptor on the afm... bolt it on to the rubber intake pipe whilst its all out of the engine... then install the ruber intake pipe over the turbo...

and then lastly force in the pod filter.

as for the pod sitting on nothing. thats fine. if you want to brace it down.. connect 2 zipties together and ziptie it to the pipe underneath. (your going to use alot of zipties with this car, liek alot of ppl do) BUT its temporary... get a bracket made up. heck get some spare sheet metal n bend it up yourself... its easy just bolt it to the back of one of the bolts thats on the afm. and then to an existing hole on the car..

i hope i didnt confuse you.

post up some pics. if your unsure. pics always help

Thanks for the posts, been very helpful :nyaanyaa:

All i'm concerned about now is that the pod filter (it does need to be oiled, came with a cleaning&oiling kit) seems to have an incredibly tight fit with the adaptor, as in it seems too "tight" and too "shallow" to fit on properly.

Also the gap in the rubber gasket concerns me, surely that isnt meant to be there

Will pull it apart this arvo and let ya know :)

Thunderbirds are go. Got it all in&running, everything is sweet.

Cheers for all the help guys, really appreciate it. These forums are a great source of info :(

Loving the sound of the pod on boost ;)

  • 1 month later...
  R33 GTS TURBO said:
Hey dude i would double check the rules for having a turbo car as i just got off my red p's today and was not allowed to drive a turbo. Also live in Perth

Huh? :ermm:

From the WA DPI site, there is no mention of Car restriction for P platers in WA, only the time restriction for Red Ps & the no alcohol limit.

  Quote
Once you are grated a provisional license you will be on P plates for two years and the following rules and conditions apply:

  • You must display your P plates at all times when driving
  • You must have a zero blood alcohol level at all times when driving
  • Committing certain driving offenses as a P-plater could mean you automatically lose your license
  • You cannot drive between 12am-5am for the first 6 months after you have first become a P plater. For this period you will need to display red P plates. After the first six (6) months, you will be able to drive at any time of day and you will need to display green P plates. There are certain exemptions concerning these conditions. Please see the Rules for novice drivers (includes L and P platers) web page for more information.

I saw an L plater driving a Merc C63 AMG once...

Edited by Mayuri Krab
  • Like 1

I'm pretty sure in Victoria the restriction is only on P Platers, not L Platers.

So if your dad has a VE SS, you can learn to drive on it, but once you get your licence it's a big no no.

Makes sense if you ask me. I can't see many L Platers going spastic in a high powered car with mummy or daddy in the passenger seat. At least not if they had my parents lol.

  • Like 1

I got my R33 for $4500... 100,000km's on the clock. Mint condition with a kit :P I Guess I scored lucky. No paint or mechinical problems. Immaculate inside and out.

Must say, it's a good feeling to see someone with another stroke of luck

  • 5 months later...
  On 24/02/2011 at 11:24 AM, Vendalix said:

sooo...is turbocharged cars restricted in WA for provisional drivers? I searched the forum and haven't got a clear answer. Am really close in getting an r33 as a first car.

No, go to the WA dpi site & it will say what I stated b4.

No restrictions on any cars (you can drive a Lambo, AMG, M5 if you have rich parents...), the current restriction for P platers are: 0 alcohol limit, night driving ban (from midnight till 5am for red Ps) & the newly introduced low demerit point system (4 point for Ps & 8 for Greens).

WA is one of the few states in Australia that doesn't yet have a car restriction list for P-platers, all the Eastern staes have them.

EDIT: DPI site: http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/20626.asp

Edited by Mayuri Krab

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either.   That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much.   It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak.   Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.
    • 15000? ish? Something like that anyway. It wasn;t so much a wear as a tear that then spread. Might have lasted a lot longer if not bothered by just one incident, whatever it was. I took a punt. They are really comfortable and do a good job of holding. My daughter HATED it when I first put them in, and probably still does now. She has sensory issues and hates the way they are all up your business. I'm 197cm and 95kg. Not fat or particularly wide, and the XL size seat is the rigth fit. If I was any fatter it would start to get too snug. Any skinnier and you'd possibly want the smaller width.
    • Mrs rs focus came factory with recaro cs  sportsters in it and they a pain in the ass to get in and out of with the really high bolsters, once you were in them they were one of the most comfortable seats I have ever sat in
    • The NA 2.5 has very little torque. You won't feel much. Those trannies are also a million years old now and it could well be f**ked. First generation electronically controlled autos will often refuse to kick down, ete, etc, depending on what's wrong with them.
    • Yes, but no but yes but no. Those "it's fine up to 500HP" rules and everything else like it were all determined back when the cars were 10 years old. As they are now 30 years old.....what do you reckon the chances of something shitting the bed are? I'd say they are much higher now than they used to be. You might be lucky. You might be unlucky. Spin the wheel and find out. Yeah, nah. It's actually exactly the opposite. Making boost early and having heaps of torque able to be generated right in the middle of the rev range will do more to damage an engine than having to rev it high to make the power. Think about the load on the conrods, bearings, etc, to make 400HP at 4000 rpm, vs 400 HP at 6500 rpm. So someone has already "let the Nissan out" which is how we describe the increased chance of a fiddled with engine to have had something done wrongly. Many more engines that have been opened die than stock ones do - even if you into consideration how they are treated wrt power levels and the like. Again, not saying that yours will definitely have been put back together by a moron. But the possibility does exist. It's still a lottery. Spin the wheel. What weakspots?
×
×
  • Create New...