Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm nearing to the end of my conversion to turbo.

I need a few parts by Saturday

R33 S1 or S2 speedo manual and low k's!

R33 dump pipe(Stock or aftermarket anything cheap!)

R33 front pipe (Stock or aftermarket anything cheap!)

R33 exhaust (Stock or aftermarket anything cheap!)

Also if anyones free tomorrow for a few hours and knows how to remove an R33 wiring loom and remove rear 5 stud hubs let me know

I have a bottle of red label for anyone who wants to help :)

The dash surrounding has already been removed and the engine plugs have been removed. the dash just needs to be removed and unplugged. Also the rear 5 stud hubs have to be removed (Just the 5 stud hub not the rotors or calipers)!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328222-help-and-parts-needed-asap/
Share on other sites

why you need Speedo just keep yours in and get an aftermarket boost guage

thats true isn't it

but then if i was to change the engine loom over does that still mean i can still run the old speedo off it?

R33 S1 or S2 speedo manual and low k's!

R33 dump pipe(Stock or aftermarket anything cheap!)

R33 front pipe (Stock or aftermarket anything cheap!)

R33 exhaust (Stock or aftermarket anything cheap!)

I have an aftermarket 3" front/Dump pipe I will sell you for $100

32160820036_large.jpg

32160820037_large.jpg

hope ur engine last's man

cheers chris

speedo looms are the same RB25de det RB26dett across the R33 range

ok. thanks for that at least i know now :yes:

so how does the psi show up on the turbo ones?

cheers chris

ok. thanks for that at least i know now :)

so how does the psi show up on the turbo ones?

Your boost readings come off the plenum via a little black hose that goes to a little black box in engine bay on drivers side near firewall.

Edited by Shazza24
Your boost readings come off the plenum via a little black hose that goes to a little black box in engine bay on drivers side near firewall.

can come off many parts of the engine

best way is putting a t piece in the front of the plenum near where the fpr line goes

ill pop round on Saturday and help Adrian hook everything up :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
    • It's all the sound deadening, and extra shit piled into them, plus all the extra (even though it's thinner) material for crumple zones. I can't fathom in modern cars why they need canbus to the headlights, and why the headlights must be vin coded on some cars to the ECU, BCM, and security module! Especially when they claim it's for security, yet, the canbus at the headlights let's thieves steal the car in minutes, so even more cars are being stolen! The Mercedes Sprinter 907 vans. They're a huge van, but a "basic" van. Yet they have that many canbus networks, plus two Lin networks, AND an Ethernet network. Logging a single network alone of 8 byte data frames, and they will generate a 20mb log file in 5 minutes. That's one network, and I can't remember the exact amount, but there's over 10 full CAN2.0B networks in them. I'm not a fan of modern cars, oddly, more and more I hate DBW, and all the bullshittery the cars try and interfere with. But all that bullshittery adds weight, plus crazy regulations on crumple zones, plus, ever picked a modern seat up, half of them have like 4 electric motors in them and will weigh 30+kg each. Then all the motors for things like adjustable steering columns blah blah blah. And did I mention the sound deadening so you can even hear an ambulance right behind you even if you 7.2surround sound is off?
    • Ah ok, yeah it should be flat, I believe the r34 battery tray has these 3 bumps in them they makes it line up and everything is flat, don't see how it would tilt if everything is secured.
×
×
  • Create New...