Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey HICAS buddays, with all the HICAS lock bars out in the market today, is there really a difference in brands and price you pay?

Would a $169 JJR lock bar

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16560

really be better than a cheapo $85 no brand lock bar from EBay?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HICAS-Lock-Bar-Niss...=item45f3d944f9

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328261-hicas-lock-bar-brands/
Share on other sites

same shit really.

the other options are the cusco type, which is very different, and the tomei lock kit that uses shims on the hicas unit instead of removing it, and also uses an electronic box to fool the hicas ecu into behaving itself.

Image2.jpg

tomeihicaslock.jpg

Edited by Munkyb0y

just dont buy an aluminium one lol

i had one in my skid car over in J-land and it ended up looking like a banana.

anything steel will be fine, but remember they are illegal. if u want a legal solution (not legal but not pickable by inspectors) buy some hicas lock washers, or better yet measure what u need, and buy some washers the right size from ur hardware. the best legal option is to go non-hicas subframe completely.

just dont buy an aluminium one lol

i had one in my skid car over in J-land and it ended up looking like a banana.

anything steel will be fine, but remember they are illegal. if u want a legal solution (not legal but not pickable by inspectors) buy some hicas lock washers, or better yet measure what u need, and buy some washers the right size from ur hardware. the best legal option is to go non-hicas subframe completely.

I got knocked back for one over here, then emailed 3 independant suspension shops, and they all said the steel bars are safer then the HICAS system, i printed the emails out, took them in with me and it got passed.

Just paint it matt black, hide or remove the old wiring and cross fingers.

I got knocked back for one over here, then emailed 3 independant suspension shops, and they all said the steel bars are safer then the HICAS system, i printed the emails out, took them in with me and it got passed.

Just paint it matt black, hide or remove the old wiring and cross fingers.

lol, cant imagine it working here in sa

lol, cant imagine it working here in sa

Yeah i was surprised to, i think mainly because i live in a town where the imports are out numbered 100-1 by the V8's so the bloke probably had NFI any way.

I had a full on argument with him trying to explain that the tint was IN the glass to.

yeh this is an email i got back from an engineer regarding an engineer's certificate for HICAS lock bar (only legal way to do it in SA)

For the HICAS issue, I know that replacing the set up with a rigid system is done from time to time. I put it in the same category as any significant steering alteration.

Were there to be a crash and steering response blamed, Nissan would say “That’s why we fitted HICAS”.

I feel that a lane change test should be done to verify the new performance.

If nothing else needs be addressed, say $165 to hire the test facility and say $770 testing and reporting.

so the main issue there was the argument that regardless of how safe the "lock" was, not having the HICAS working was the issue. which is ridiculous seeing as some come out from factory without HICAS. i figured the best way to visually demonstrate this was to put a subframe from a non-hicas model into my car haha

my solution which allowed me to keep the stock adjustable toe rods:

DSCN2400.jpg

DSCN2402.jpg

DSCN2403.jpg

Alright this is more confusing than i thought.

So basically what i read from your replies are:

- Don't go with aluminium bars

- All the brands do same shizz assuming same material

- The Cusco/Driftworks type is lighter than the bar type

- Removing HICAS will disable the adjustment of your toe rods

- Illegal (don't really care as i can get it engineered)

Edited by TyresBro
Alright this is more confusing than i thought.

So basically what i read from your replies are:

- Don't go with aluminium bars

- All the brands do same shizz assuming same material

- The Cusco/Driftworks type is lighter than the bar type

- Removing HICAS will disable the adjustment of your toe rods

- Illegal (don't really care as i can get it engineered)

it wont disable the adjustment of toe rods, only if u go a non-hicas subframe and use stock non-hicas toe arms.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...