Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sex on wheels is was I call it :wub:

you have convinced me to purchased some nimso lmgt4 as well for my car....only question is where can I get them from :wacko: ?

Please buy these then :) - I have my eye on them but I really should not be buying more wheels...

http://www.importmonster.com.au/shop/product_info.php?cPath=40_45&products_id=1557

Any chance you could post some photos up fo the new front and rear window seals...

Also, did you run new rear quarter windows?

Will see what I can dig up.

Yep went with some new quarters - the stockpile of new parts I have been dragging around for the past few years are finally getting used.

Funny you say that....I was just looking at import monster :turned: I want them bleck though.

I also spotted these

http://www.importmonster.com.au/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1328

I think they would look great and just need nismo stickers to suit (would fit them on my 17in advan AO48 semi's rather well)

Edited by Ants

Any chance you could post some photos up fo the new front and rear window seals...

It's the same seal front and back - sits down in and forms a channel. The urethane holding the window in is what really stops and channels the water down the pillars.

IMG_1625_zps229b378f.jpg

You can see here at the corners how it doesn't work - it's only cosmetic, and the other aftermarket seal options sit up over the whole thing. Going to try nicking it with a knife on the front and see if it sits ok, if ok I will do the back as well. You can see the urethane sitting behind. I would probably go the factory seal my time again - but this being a track car I will no doubt have the opportunity to change the windscreen soon enough!

I do have the same seal on my 34 and it works fine, the corner isn't as hard, but I also think it would help to bunch the seal up a bit around the corners so it wrinkes on the glass (as per my 34), but doesn't leave a gap.

IMG_1626_zpsf090a118.jpg

Otherwise now you just need some big anodized calipers. :) Settling for R34 AP/Alcon combo?

The 34 setup makes the most sense seeing I have hats and caliper mounts to replicate - however given the v8's have changed rotor size I am having a think.

I stocked up on ex v8 rotors so I have 4 spare pairs. I guess I can always go new however but somewhat defeats the purpose.

I need to have a look at those special ones you have there again now I am ready to talk brakes, and work out what you want for them and weigh that in. Chat next week unless you come up to DECA.

Off to Racepace for a check over, fluids, start up then tuning.

Should be ready to go around lunch time tomorrow - looking forward to seeing it fire up to put it mildly.

Nice seeing it out in the light as well and not cooped up in a corner! Wheels have been swapped for the 9.5 wides - will get onto getting them re-painted in the next few weeks. Also need to get all the clips or whatever to put the side skirts back on.

IMG_1636_zps01e1292b.jpg

IMG_1637_zpsbe45ccf6.jpg

What's that rattling noise though (valve train?)

Nah it's something around the belts - I have my suspicions I may have left one of the bolts for either the p/s pump or alternator belt tensioner loose.

But I left it with them ... I know it's a little annoying having customers hovering over you while trying to work something out.

Nah it's something around the belts - I have my suspicions I may have left one of the bolts for either the p/s pump or alternator belt tensioner loose.

But I left it with them ... I know it's a little annoying having customers hovering over you while trying to work something out.

I thought it was coming from the belts as well but obviously hard to pick up.

Yes, let the pros do their job :)

Edited by Ants

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
×
×
  • Create New...