Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

put a multimeter across the alternator and give it a rev. 13.8-14.4 is perfect. a little either way is ok but 14.8 should be max. if voltage is slightly too high compare to voltage as battery at same rpm. if its significantly lower than its high volt drop in cables between battery and alternator.

ripping my car apart atm and the charge is around 14 droping btween 13.8 n 14.1 but i have just ripped out my radiator over flow bottle and have found mass amounts of water in where the loom plugs into each other so im gona seal that up but im gona try get the head light out

so my next question 2 evry1 is how 2 remove the whole head light????

do i have 2 remove my fender or will i have to remove my front bar????

sorry mate got a virus or something and wouldnt let me pm back. 14.5 is ok. you dont need to stress too much about earths on light harnesses. bad earth will lower voltage to light therefore blow less often. but its impotant on engines etc for good starting/charging and keeping gremlins at bay. with all that said it sounds like you have correct voltage so is there anything else like you have a killer stereo that makes the lights flash and cause them to wear out faster. could be overcharging on occasion but usually once they overcharge they dont often go back the other way.

the stock wiring hasnt been modified either. if there is a relay fitted to light circuit to run something else there is a small possibility when the relay turns off it created a spike in the voltage momentarily. this would only happen if the the light circuit is powering the relay. IE running a relay off high beam wiring to power up spot lights. if there is some sort of crazy mod its as simple as using a diode protected relay which is easy. all i can think of this time of night and after a few bourbons. will get back to ya if i think of more. happy hunting

check if there are any wires from the globe are earthing out on to a metal surface, im guessing the headlights are not split soo they share the same fuse? might be a break in the loom somwhere maybe?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. It's either "2 wires", or 1 wire, depending on how you look at it. It is the connection that ties the battery -ve to both the chassis and the engine. Every electron that goes in or out of the battery goes through those 2 small spots (on the inner guard and on the engine block). If those are not clean and tight, then shit starts to suffer. Yeah, but measure it again cold in the morning, after it has had hours to rest. You can't usefully test the charge state of a battery immediately after it has been running because the alternator puts a surface charge onto the plates that takes a while to soak in and balance out. It will always read higher, and potentially look properly healthy, when fresh off of charge. But hours later it can look a lot less healthy. It's also worth measuring the battery voltage while cranking, although this can be difficult with a typical DMM because the screem update rate is so slow on most of them. An analogue voltmeter is actually a better tool for that. If the voltage drops too far while cranking, it is a sign of a poor battery. Although I don't think we're necessarily looking for a weak battery here - just wanting to exclude it.
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/15ZMn5oXtc/ Updated Event (so its not private and can be shared easier)  Attempting to coordinate a big push of Stagea's to this years GTR Festival. Great event last year and hoping for the same this year.  Discounted tickets 20% off for their various tickets until the 3rd of Feb Monday. Drags, show and shine etc.  I've emailed them to ask to set a location aside for the Stageas for the show and shine - they are happy to do so if we can get them numbers, I'm happy to keep track of that. Entering as Nismo category.  I'll be road tripping up from Melbourne, would be cool to convey if people are interested, maybe there is SAU convoys from each capital? If you have ideas about that let me know.  https://gtrfestival.com.au  
    • Does have series 2 airbag steering wheel and passenger side airbag also.
    • Do I have a series 2 or has someone spent money to have a series 1/1.5 look like a series 2? Everything I have read says the series 2 came out in 1996. I have a car manufactured in December 1995. The exterior, engine and interior are all series 2 other than the dash facia is series 1. Paint code is also kr4 that I believe is only available on a series 2. I have a VX Vehicle History Report and it says Grade: GTS25T TYPE M2 Manufacture date: 1995-12 Make: NISSAN Model: SKYLINE Body: E-ECR33 Grade: GTS25T TYPE M2 Engine: RB25DET Drive: 2WD Transmission: F5
    • I went to Repco to get them to test the battery using their tester (not a volt meter), alternator shows 14.3v when running, and when the car was off after the it was on full load I think it was 12.6v but the guy said it was all good. Terminals are all clean, no corrosion. Though I coulda sworn when I tightened up my alternator belt the car idles a bit higher and the steering wheel shakes a bit until it's warmed up. I wanted to confirm for the earth cable/s, are you referring to the 2 wires that are bolted onto the frame rail under the battery? I might be overthinking this a bit.
×
×
  • Create New...