Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicus Light Pops On After 5 Mins Of Driving

ClutchBurndout-:(
 Share

Recommended Posts

ClutchBurndout-:( Grand Master

ClutchBurndout-:(

Posted
Posted

as the title says, i have my hicus still in and hooked up to stock etc, but the hicus light on my dash turns on after 5 mins of driving and dosent turn off unless the car turns off, what would be causing this? and how do i fix it? does the light mean my hicus is buggered?

cheers

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

What was the last thing you did to the car before the light started coming on?

It means it is getting an error of some sort and going into its failsafe mode. You need to work out what is causing the error.

I once had it happen when I shorted the speed signal wire, kept happening. Simply reset the factory ECU (disconnected the battery over night) and hey presto was fine again.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Have you taken your steering wheel off lately? if it's not quite on straight, after a few minutes of driving HICAS will think you're driving in a really big circle and throw up an error..

Does your speedo still work?

ClutchBurndout-:( Grand Master

ClutchBurndout-:(

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What was the last thing you did to the car before the light started coming on?

It means it is getting an error of some sort and going into its failsafe mode. You need to work out what is causing the error.

I once had it happen when I shorted the speed signal wire, kept happening. Simply reset the factory ECU (disconnected the battery over night) and hey presto was fine again.

its been doing it since i got it, ill try disconnecting the battery, both terminals?

Have you taken your steering wheel off lately? if it's not quite on straight, after a few minutes of driving HICAS will think you're driving in a really big circle and throw up an error..

Does your speedo still work?

i havnt, but ive had the car for about 3 weeks so i dont know what the last ownder did,but how would it know that the steering wheel is off center? its only alen screws...

speedo is fine!

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)

the way it knows is there's a hicas related clock spring type wheel behind the steering wheel that turns with your steering wheel. so it keeps track of the angle. 'steering angle sensor'

but i dont know why ppl keep saying check if your steering wheel is off by a tiny bit. coz the splines dont allow you to be off by a tiny bit. it's very noticeable if you're off if only by one tooth.

i suggest taking your boss kit off and check that it has the appropriate holes in the back for the steering angle sensor to lock into. also, check that the sensor is still there.

Edited by Munkyb0y
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

There is a steering angle sensor behind the boss, HICAS uses steering angle and speed input to decide what it's doing. Even one tooth out will freak the system out.. I'm talking teeth of the splined shaft that the boss goes on to, not the 6 bolts that hold the steering wheel to the boss.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

The sensor is a big white looking disc thing with two posts standing proud of it... really hard to miss.. as soon as you take the boss off there it is.

But +1 for binning HICAS. You don't have as much of a weight saving in the R33's but I hate HICAS and removing it gave me more confidence in the abilities of the car as opposed to not being entirely sure what the back end was going to do..

Fortunately, my Stagea came from the factory without it :)

ClutchBurndout-:( Grand Master

ClutchBurndout-:(

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The sensor is a big white looking disc thing with two posts standing proud of it... really hard to miss.. as soon as you take the boss off there it is.

But +1 for binning HICAS. You don't have as much of a weight saving in the R33's but I hate HICAS and removing it gave me more confidence in the abilities of the car as opposed to not being entirely sure what the back end was going to do..

Fortunately, my Stagea came from the factory without it :)

ok an how is the disc supposed to sit? or am i just making sure its in there?

also, while where on the topic, how hard is it to bin the hicus? is it as simple as unbolting and unpluggin the wires and putting in the bar? or will i need to screw around with the wireing etc, and will i need a wheel alignment? how hard is it? whats involved?

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

Mine did this. Would always come on just outside of Sydney on the way back to Canberra, but never any other time....inclusive of the way TO Sydney :S

I personally just pissed it off with a lock bar when I got my suspension etc done, but that's obviously not fixing the problem (unless of course you agree that HICAS itself is the problem in the first place)

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
His is an R33.. I know the 32 will light up the HICAS light if the fluid level is low but doubt the R33 does the same..

yeh i thought it still did as it simply doubled as a hicas/steering fluid warning. im probably wrong, i dont like to meddle in r33 things usually lol

do r33's have a separate warning light for the steering fluid sensor?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dyl33
      Has anyone put in brand new full carpet? (not floor mats)

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Got any pics of the carpet fitted?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. I'm told as a chain breaks in it ends up regarding back about 0.5 a degree as the chain breaks in, making it bang on. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • Yeetus
      Has anyone put in brand new full carpet? (not floor mats)

      By Yeetus · Posted

      I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
×
×
  • Create New...