Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The one Nathan works on has a massive restore thread on performace forums.

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh....php?t=67227917

93 pages

2770 posts

that's probably gotta take the record for most EPIC build thread ever????

just spent about an hour reading random parts of this thread. i could never match his dedication to his car. absolutely incredible attention to detail! it does kinda show that even if you put massive bucks and countless hours into hotting up your L-series motor you still get problems and not a lot of satisfaction (his words not mine!). and yes i know that will offend some viewers lol. if my c210 coupe was gunna get a power increase at the wheels, it would be coming from an RB conversion and nothing else. just my opinion :-)

93 pages

2770 posts

that's probably gotta take the record for most EPIC build thread ever????

it does kinda show that even if you put massive bucks and countless hours into hotting up your L-series motor you still get problems and not a lot of satisfaction (his words not mine!). and yes i know that will offend some viewers lol. if my c210 coupe was gunna get a power increase at the wheels, it would be coming from an RB conversion and nothing else. just my opinion :-)

If you crunch the right numbers and do the research first, most to all of the problems he had will not be there in the first place.

eg. Just on the cam & lash pad problem he had:

I'm using N42 length valves (ex USA) in my P90 head, but as I'm using a factory reground cam and the core diameter is smaller, the valve length is never going to be an issue. The after market new billets break to easily & therefore a factory re worked cam is by far, much better.

The bottom line in any rebuild is DO THE RESEARCH FIRST then you can do the job right the first time.

I'm looking at over 600Nm @ about 4500rpm on less than 10psi boost from my L Series. I would like to see the $$$$$ figure getting that from your RB, because I did the research for that some time back as well.

Far too many rebuilds have breakage lists and I don't plan on having one of them at all.

Cheers, D

i will get some pics up soon ,mine is a lot crappier than that one but i was in japan last week and bought heaps of good shit ,new fenders ,new exhaust ,coil overs ,big brakes ,deeeep dish work meisters ,bracing ,diff mounts ,ajustable caster rods ,parts for theses cars are easy to get but bug bucks ,its already got a cusco 2 way and a modified L28 with tripple mikuni carbs ect

Ahh, so you bought Jash's car? Awesome project :bunny: The KGC10 build thread on PF is my car, whaddya need to know, Denzo? :(

Oh and btw the issues I had with the L-series were 99% casued by the person who built it in Japan. We ended up starting from scratch, and the cylinder head was redone by Knight Engines in Adelaide, and Nathan did the bottom end and assembly. Ran sweet as a nut after that. Puts out 190rwhp and sounds great, so yeah I'm happy with it.

Edited by Babalouie

yes its jashes old car its a bit of a rust pig but its being repaired properly at the moment ,i will also get the engine freshend up ,ive bought heaps of new parts for the car i cant stop buying ,theres so much cool shit for these things ,just courious what was needed to rego your car ,where did you get seatbelts from ect. :nyaanyaa:

yes its jashes old car its a bit of a rust pig but its being repaired properly at the moment ,i will also get the engine freshend up ,ive bought heaps of new parts for the car i cant stop buying ,theres so much cool shit for these things ,just courious what was needed to rego your car ,where did you get seatbelts from ect. :)

I dunno if it's gonna be the same in WA, but in NSW the engo accepted that Klippan non-inertia reel seatbelts were okay, front and rear.

At the back, you'll find that the c-pillar sheetmetal and floorpan will already have seat belt mountings behind the trim

supplies301.jpg

supplies265.jpg

At the front, it's just the regular Klippan kit, but with the longest available stalk buckle (i think 450mm, cos the mount is so far back on the tunnel).

supplies263.jpg

supplies085.jpg

Umm...apart from seatbelts, I think I didn't have to change or add anything else for rego/engo. Tail lights and indicators (which blink red) were ok for the age of the car.

I think the only hassles I had on rego were things like noise and ride height :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...