Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Won't Start, Wide Variable Of Potential Problems

Tyral

By Tyral,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tyral Explorer

Tyral

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, a little back-story on this one:

R33 RB25DET Series 2 Engine.

Engine ran on 5 cylinders, it was removed.

Car was due to receive a manual conversion.

Sat without and engine for at least 9 months.

Me and a friend put the engine back in (what we assume to be correctly).

We attempted to finish the manual conversion, gearbox bolted up ect. although as of now loom wise we have only looped the inhibitor switch.

Upon turning the key the starter motor goes off and we see smoke coming out the exhaust and top of the cam cover nozzle things but the engine refuses to fire.

Things to note:

The car did run before the engine was removed.

Fuel is entering the lines onto the rail.

Coil packs work, we tested to see if the spark plugs sparked (they did).

Automatic locator (I think of is the name?) has yet to be replaced with a spigot bush, our aim isn't to make the car actually move we just want to see if the engine goes.

The well around the spark plugs and the tips of them were covered in oil, this was the case before we put the engine back in.

I am aware that could be a wide variety of things as there are many variables to what is wrong, any suggestions and tips would be great! Feel free to ask for photos of the engine bay if need be or any questions regarding the car.

Edited by Tyral
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
Fuel is entering the lines onto the rail.
How do you know? Are you sure you put the fuel lines back on correctly - check by removing the return line from the pressure regulator while priming the pump.
Tyral Explorer

Tyral

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How do you know? Are you sure you put the fuel lines back on correctly - check by removing the return line from the pressure regulator while priming the pump.

A mate pulled the line off the nipple to the injectors and it pissed out with petrol, which I assume means they're indeed getting fuel since they were empty when I started it up? But I'll give that a jam too.

blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

Car cranks, step one. Step two, before going any further, check your compression (as above) to make sure you're not wasting your time with a stuffed engine.

You said the car has spark? Take the plugs out and make sure they're not stuffed/contaminated, plus the oil in the plug tubes over time will eff the coils and make them arc out to the plug tubes, try cleaning them out and the plugs to get a good spark.

You have fuel pressure? Best to double check with a gauge to be safe. Does it try to fire on aerostart? Check for injection pulse using a noid light or low amp LED test light, and use the earth provided in the injector connector to make sure it's switching, not just powered.

If you have all these things the only options left that won't let it "run" are:

Timing (injection, ignition, or belt (which should show up on a compression test))

Computer

Possibly your air flow meter.

Insufficent cranking speed.

The afformentioned are the bare minimum the engine needs to fire.

Hope that helps. :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      So i brought a boat...

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Ouch
    • 84eighty
      So i brought a boat...

      By 84eighty · Posted

      I removed the head expecting to find broken and bent valves, but instead found number 1 at TDC and cylinder 2 at the top of its cylinder stroke as well, thought that was weird and proceeded to push cylinder 2 back down until it either bottomed out on its other piston half or the conrod either way we found the issue kind of,  now to remove the engine and see how the block looks, hopefully its just the top off a piston.  
    • robbo_rb180
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      A little more work this week.  Fitted astra power steering pump in the boot with a lowe fabrication bracket. Gave the pump a good clean, fitted Anderson plug and high pressure fitting. With the intercooler being flipped under rad support factory headlights weren't going to work. Ordered a set of origin battle lights, they arrived so got them test fitted. Will require some fiddling to fit nice but was an easy quick option for now. And today we pulled out the manual Rb gearbox and test fitted a ZF 8HP50. It will fit with some casting tabs cut off and small tap of the tunnel with a hammer. Pick up the adapter plate Wednesday so hopefully all bolted in Friday and measure for tailshaft which will be a 2 piece. Been doing a lot of ecu, pdm and tcu loom design so when comes to wiring it in a few weeks will all go smoothly.
    • GTSBoy
      Spotted on the street....

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.
    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      One piece driveshaft I would recommend a dual CV setup otherwise stick to OEM. I have heard most one piece driveshafts cause excess vibration otherwise. The transmission grind I'm quite familiar with. You can try shockproof gear oil, otherwise you need a new transmission. The shifter is extremely simple on these cars. If you want pull apart the assembly and replace the plastic bushing but I doubt that fixes anything. The tail light issue is very common, unfortunately new tail lights are long discontinued. The trunk antenna going up always is because your radio doesn't have a true power antenna control, just remote amp power signal. There is a blank switch plate that you can pop out and install a switch for this or alternatively source a head unit that has proper antenna control. Throttle body sticking you have to disambiguate by disconnecting the cable and seeing if the linkages are the problem or something else. There is a procedure to adjust them, refreshing them is also somewhat involved if that's the issue. I have dealt with many of these issues. Old cars really are fractals of problems. The more you fix the more you discover there is to fix.
×
×
  • Create New...