Jump to content
SAU Community

Cant Get Socket On Wheel Nuts

ClutchBurndout-:(

By ClutchBurndout-:(,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

ClutchBurndout-:( Grand Master

ClutchBurndout-:(

Posted
Posted

hey all, ive owned this car for about 3 weeks, and it has a set of volk racing wheels, unsure on the exact brand, anyway, i cant get a socket or wheel brace to the nuts, the wheel nut holes are to small, where can i get a small socket to fit the nuts?

ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328853-cant-get-socket-on-wheel-nuts/
Share on other sites
PUDZ 32R Enthusiast

PUDZ 32R

Posted
Posted

maybe buy some internal hex wheel nuts?

thats what i had to do with my '32. the nuts are M12x1.25.

i paid $40 for 20 of them and they came with a hex bit as well.

other than that Stahlwille make some very thin walled sockets but they are massivley expensive. try about $750 for a basic socket set.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

you may need to get a good quality socket as the cheaper ones are too thick to go in. then as said above, get some of the allen key head nuts.

or you can do what old mate in the honda did and take to the wheels with a saw............ LOL

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

as for getting the old ones out, best bet would be to drive to a hardware shop, or a decent tool shop and explain to them your problem and see if they will let you try some sockets to see if they fit. generally your better sockets such as stanely, kingchrome, snap-on etc will make skinnier sockets because they are made from stronger steel so don't need to be super thick to make up for being weak.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

some tool shops have those annodised slimline sets in 4 colours that have the plastic covers on them to stop the socket from damaging the wheels. these are normally long and skinny for this purpose.

z-690500.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
iplen Mentor

iplen

Posted
Posted

DO NOT USE INTERNAL HEX WHEEL NUTS!!! Had these on a rally car I bought and after heating cooling and a few wheel changes (fair enough rally car gets wheels on and off a lot more than a road car..) the pressure out on the inside of the nuts cracks them. If you simply think about the pressure is being applied as you tighten and loosen you will soon see how easy this can happen.... It may be poor quality, it may be a lot of work and all the hot cold, but I will still never use them again

Burgz32 Community Regular

Burgz32

Posted
Posted

you more than likely have 13/16th or 21mm nut's, best bet is uselly to use a spark plug socket, these are thin in the wall

and will get you out of trouble.

Nissan use 21mm wheel nut's, head down to your local tyre shop and buy some 19mm nut's and you should be right

and i aggree DO NOT use those stupid inner hex nut's, the amount of these that i've had to remove is huge..

you have to drill the head of the stud, and it's a massive pain in the arse, and we charge $65 per nut removelly

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

The Enkei rims I got came with a thinner extension as most sockets cannot get to the nuts due to the wheel design.

I'm sure you can buy them somewhere, or you can take any of the above tips.

boiracer Grand Master

boiracer

Posted
Posted

LMAO!!! that link is hilarious. i like how the honda boys are blaming it on VW........who cuts a wheel. honestly. and then tries to justify doing it? hilarious read. my life if now better having seen that.

sry was off topic (sorta), all ideas above are good :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Will I Need A Retune After Cahanging My Catalytic Converter ?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Not noticeably. Arguably, the catless turbo is going to work harder in a different direction, as it will spool up faster, go to higher speeds more easily. Only if it was tuned in the original condition. If it was a stock tune, using the AFM before and after the cat/dump change, then no, no retune needed. If the car is running on a MAP sensor, then it might well benefit from a retune. It might even run a little dangerously without a retune, but it could quite easily be fine.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Does 98ron contain ethanol?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      We had this blend that uses 98RON + 10% Ethanol which brought it to 100RON. It's no longer available anymore unfortunately.
    • silviaz
      Will I Need A Retune After Cahanging My Catalytic Converter ?

      By silviaz · Posted

      Does it make a difference in your turbo having a shorter life if you have a cat converter as it causes that back pressure versus less/no back pressure with a decat? (Not sure if this is accurate) Also slightly different question if you went from a oem cat to a decat or vice versa will it require a tune? I heard if you change the dump pipe onwards it requires a tune?
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. Have only gotten as far as contemplating the task of having to put in the required fairly heavy wiring and fusing to run it (along with the big alternator), and preferring not to. But otherwise, it would be nice to have a little extra freedom as to exactly where the compressor is located and free up some space around the exhaust side of the engine.
    • GTSBoy
      A little PU bush story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Following from this in a related by not closely-related sense... Because I was buying a bunch of other GKTech stuff, I got some rear subframe collars. The history that leads up to this is: 25+ years ago the car arrived into the country with stock subframe bushes. At some point shortly thereafter I added Whiteline pineapple rings, set up neutral, and it improved the rear end behaviour. Well, it is my vague memory that I was happier with it with them in. Less axle tramp on launches, generally better, etc etc. ~2012 it got a new non-HICAS subframe with new stock bushes. No pineapple rings. I reckon that ever since then I've been dissatisfied with the axle tramp. Recently I've been f**king around a lot with all aspects of the suspension. One contemplation has been to relocate the rear lower control arm front mount points (and do the other things needed to make that work) to improve longitudinal rear grip by getting rid of some of the stupid anti-squat that Nissan ladled into the R32. But.... before doing that I thought I'd put some collars in. And.... The collars are good. The rear sounds a little bit different, but there has been no significant increase in NVH coming up into the body. In terms of rear behaviour - expansion joints on long sweeping elevated freeway ramps that would sometimes cause the rear to jiggle around a bit, no longer seem to do so. It appears that jamming chunks of metal into the gaps in the rubber so they can't move much is a really good thing. And the launch behaviour and general forward traction situation seems to be greatly improved too. It's impossible to be really sure, because the tyres are completely shagged - they are freakishly willing to let go right now. But as an A-B test with the same tyres it certainly seems to grip up a lot better. Highly recommended to anyone who still has stock bushes.
×
×
  • Create New...