Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

One of my buddys can souce me a BorgWarner turbo for my Rb25, the model is S259 and this unit is there interpretation of the 3076r. My Exhaust will be V-band but as for the rear A/R, they do not offer the standard .63 or .82 A/R that you see in most Garrett housings. I have no compressor maping for the s259 as it is fairly new on the market so nothing to base my numbers on :blink:

Turbo Specs :

360 journal, oil cooled , billet wheel with ETT wheel ( extended tip technology )

- Compressor Wheel Ind:59mm, Exd:80, Trim:44

- Turbine Wheel Ind:61.5, Exd:69.5 ***OR*** Ind:64, Exd:74

Here are my options for the rear A/R :

- .55 a/r

- .70 a/r

- .76 a/r

- .85 a/r

The recomended A/R for the GT3076r is .82 as most people using this setup are showing good numbers ( with supporting mods) The .55 I know for sure is no good as even the Garrett .63 are not recommended for the RB25.

My question is : What would you guys use OR try on a rb25 and what would be the outcome or expectations of your decision.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328979-gt3076r-rear-ar-question/
Share on other sites

the thing is, the Garrett core in the 3076r is water and oil cooled and comes in ball bearing which is better for response.

I dont know where you have heard .63 rears are too small... me,the mafia and simonr32 have all made good power with it, but with great response. lookup the rb25 dyno thread, simonr32 is making like 350rwkw....

we need to know how much power you are looking for and how much lag you are willing to sacrifice for that, that will help determine which rear housing.

personally.. because it is only journal bearing so response will be slower, I would go the .70, seems like a good mix between power and response in my mind...

the thing is, the Garrett core in the 3076r is water and oil cooled and comes in ball bearing which is better for response.

I dont know where you have heard .63 rears are too small... me,the mafia and simonr32 have all made good power with it, but with great response. lookup the rb25 dyno thread, simonr32 is making like 350rwkw....

we need to know how much power you are looking for and how much lag you are willing to sacrifice for that, that will help determine which rear housing.

personally.. because it is only journal bearing so response will be slower, I would go the .70, seems like a good mix between power and response in my mind...

I have looked at alot of the RB25 builds and like I said above, non of theme are with the A/R selections That I have, Numbers will be 350 to 400 WHP , I want a smooth power band ... I dont want to have it go sideways when the boost kicks in, but I dont want to kill the top end either

For street responce im thinking .70 or .76

Ball bearing v Journel Bearing core means sweet FA when comparing different turbos.

and the Borg Warners are a good thing.

I would probably try the .76 as a good all round street turbo.

Agree, With the billet wheels and the new ETT my tuner has seen some spool a few 100x rpm quicker then the 3076r on some Vw Vr6

.70 or .76 seems like a good mid range street choices .... I dont like to pull up at a light to race I rather drop a 3rd on the Hwy I think this will lead to a larger A/R to take it a bit more in the top end

Yeah, if your after highway overtaking type power then the 0.76 is the clear winner

You think the .85 would be to much of a slug in the streets ?! Yet people that run a 3076r with the .82 praise its good response and power :(

the thing is, the Garrett core in the 3076r is water and oil cooled and comes in ball bearing which is better for response.

I dont know where you have heard .63 rears are too small... me,the mafia and simonr32 have all made good power with it, but with great response. lookup the rb25 dyno thread, simonr32 is making like 350rwkw....

On a hub dyno & E85... You won't see that on PULP :(

And Jono is using water meth... So bit of a helping hand in both scenario's

I want a smooth power band ... I dont want to have it go sideways when the boost kicks in, but I dont want to kill the top end either

For street responce im thinking .70 or .76

The .82 will come on much nicer compared to a .63.

The .85 could be an option to consider - what it depends on is exactly "how close" the two turbos are in terms of characteristics.

I mean if the turbine wheel is a tad smaller/trim on the BW turbo compared to the Garrett then the .85 should respond in pretty much the same manner as a GT .82 if you catch my drift.

Other side of the coin if the BW is a tad bigger, then the .76 would then be the choice.

I think .70 would be to small either way - again though depends on the turbo and what BW have to say about it.

I like my 0.82, but I think a mid sized exhaust housing would be better.

The HKS 3037 is 0.68 and I think it is still a midgion small.

Ideally I have a feeling that somewhere around the 0.75 would be ideal, but I do highway miles and my 0.82 is good for that. At 100km/h it is just spooling and then it gets motoring from then on. A 0.63 would be spooling all the time.

But this is for my use, others have different needs and uses.

On a hub dyno & E85... You won't see that on PULP :(

And Jono is using water meth... So bit of a helping hand in both scenario's

The .82 will come on much nicer compared to a .63.

The .85 could be an option to consider - what it depends on is exactly "how close" the two turbos are in terms of characteristics.

I mean if the turbine wheel is a tad smaller/trim on the BW turbo compared to the Garrett then the .85 should respond in pretty much the same manner as a GT .82 if you catch my drift.

Other side of the coin if the BW is a tad bigger, then the .76 would then be the choice.

I think .70 would be to small either way - again though depends on the turbo and what BW have to say about it.

Thanks for all the help guys !! I think this seals the deal, the .76 will be my choice !

I just got a message form my tuner telling me the BW rear housings are about 300 UDS so if the .76 does not suit my style Il try to swap for either bigger or smaller knowing that I have a base idea of what the .76 feels like

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...