Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have the hks 2835 pro s turbo on my car. Happy enough with the power. Most I've had it at is 267kw @ 15psi. Didnt want to strain the turbo too much after blowing my last one. Happy with the power and the lag.

Also as far as im aware hks have now brought out the 2835 kai turbo, which I believe is an improvement on the pro s. If you really want the 3076r I'd talk to Mick as well, as he is running it on his 25.

edit: one of the reasons I went with the hks turbo, was apart from the heatshield it pretty much looks factory, and is a direct bolt on.

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Given Kris' claimed results on an internal, and the mention of police attention (I haven't been looked at twice by cops since I bought the car....first 5 or so months it had 5% tint all round so go figure) I'm leaning towards internal a little more at this stage, depending on just how much more external will end up being.

v66 still runs wasted spark I believe....unless I missed the part where they changed it. It's just the v44 but plug-in

EDIT: you said injector not ignition, my bad.

Edited by Trozzle

having made a boo-boo and ordered an EXTERNAL pump, not INTERNAL like I thought (bloody hell 040 and 044 look the same at a glance hey...) I'm now going to be receiving something I can't necessarily use all too easily. Can anyone point me in the direction of info regarding what's needed to use an external pump in place of an internal one? Might as well go with my f**kup now and use it, if it can be without too much trouble...

This is what you want...Bargain

Garrett gt3540 / gt35r bolt on turbo kit.. $2100 ono

.70 front, .82 rear, great condition - looks brand new, no smoke or oil residue anywhere, minimal/negligible shaft play

Includes Highmount manifold, 3" dump/front pipe & o2 sensor, braided oil feed line, water lines & fittings, external wastegate w/ screamer, stainless intake pipe to AFM, hose clamps & reducers, everything in the pictures! Can ship it anywhere in Oz

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wr...ts-t328761.html

Hey krayzie he could get that but the lag is just too bad on a 3540, i was considering upgrading my turbo to that but everyone kept saying its not that good for street due to the lag. There is a reason why many people say that the 3076R is the best turbo for the rb25 for street.

Heres my dyno sheet for my claimed power.

post-8025-1279177133_thumb.jpg

having made a boo-boo and ordered an EXTERNAL pump, not INTERNAL like I thought (bloody hell 040 and 044 look the same at a glance hey...) I'm now going to be receiving something I can't necessarily use all too easily. Can anyone point me in the direction of info regarding what's needed to use an external pump in place of an internal one? Might as well go with my f**kup now and use it, if it can be without too much trouble...

Im sure you will be able to get it to fit internally, just might need to customize the bracket to where its mounted too.

044 on factory rail

post-a295315-DSCF2644-.jpg

sweet, yeah I read into it quickly now that I'm home, and it can be mounted internally....just with modification to the bracket. That's ok with me lol.

And thanks for the dyno sheet man, makes me happy to see that work so well with internal gate etc

I'm not even after top end too much anyway, so a small drop up the top doesn't phase me. I realise that since I'm not after top end, that means I'm after response and pull...which is better with an external gate anyway :( either way, can't wait Kris I know I'll love it :D once I sort out how you have to mod this bracket for the 044 >.>

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...