Few Questions Regarding Upcoming Mods

[Trozzle]

Exactly what I'm thinking. like $6/piece more for 740s, and I know I'll be going for e85 if it ever shows up in Canberra

[Harey]

  Trozzle said:

And it's a street car for quite some time it may appear...a defect like that will f**k me royally

But your installing an aftermarket turbo? That can be defected

[Trozzle]

yes. yes it can. Though the less obvious it is, the better. External gate would be pushing it.

Once I've got myself a shitbox daily (which is only held back by somewhere to park it) this car will be a weekend warrior/wakefield fun car. I just don't want to kick its ass until I can afford it being off the road (yes I know a defect will do this, but I have no received police attention AT ALL in the year I've owned it, and won't give any reasons to in the future)

[PM-R33]

  Trozzle said:

Exactly what I'm thinking. like $6/piece more for 740s, and I know I'll be going for e85 if it ever shows up in Canberra

Well thats exactly it, E85 has changed everything and if it becomes mainstream around Aus 555's will start to become a pointless upgrade. Hence me regretting not going the 740's.

[On Edge]

  Trozzle said:

yes. yes it can. Though the less obvious it is, the better. External gate would be pushing it.

Once I've got myself a shitbox daily (which is only held back by somewhere to park it) this car will be a weekend warrior/wakefield fun car. I just don't want to kick its ass until I can afford it being off the road (yes I know a defect will do this, but I have no received police attention AT ALL in the year I've owned it, and won't give any reasons to in the future)

i didnt get attention for two years then had 6 months of hell, just because they havnt yet doesnt make ur less prone to attention in future

[Trozzle]

More or less, what skyline on the road ISN'T defectable? Some have engineer's certs, but they won't necessarily cover everything...

[Harey]

Well hi flow turbos are visually legal. Big difference between having to raise a car and change the turbo etc etc.

[CeJay]

HKS turbo will look more legal, 2835 or gtrs, fits in low mount position, IW, but of course it's not going to give you 300-320kw

[Trozzle]

Of course it will still stand out.

Either way, getting off topic now...

[Trozzle]

Bumping my own thread to ask a different, yet relevant question:

Once these modifications have been done, is there any reason I will need to treat the car differently on cold start?

Right now it lives outside (fk my life gotta move out lol) so the engine itself is as cold as it's going to get each morning. I start it, allow it to run for 10 seconds, roll down my driveway (no throttle needed) then off down the road. The engine will be idling for roughly 90 seconds before it sees any throttle or load, at which point I take it down the street, not going above -0.5 bar vacuum, until I've driven roughly 1km, at which stage I come to the hill up the highway. At this point I will try to keep it out of positive manifold pressure until water temp is 65+

I use boost to determine how much throttle it's getting and therefore load, and I won't take it above 2500rpm until I go up the highway, at which stage it won't go above 4000rpm.

Should I just treat it exactly the same with new turbo etc, or different? Hell, am I even doing it right as I am now?

Thanks

[paulr33]

i think you are over complicating it?

just drive it normal and don't load it up mega until water is at least 40deg+

after that you should be OK for some normal load and some boost - don't red line it, but don't panic if it winds up 0.5kgcm2

[Trozzle]

I figured I was probably overdoing it with taking it easy, but as long as it's not detrimental on the engine, might as well...but thanks, just wasn't sure if there was anything else I should be taking into consideration with the new gear when it happens (eventually)

[HEKT1K]

I wouldn't have thought so. Seems like you're treating it nicely while it's cold already. With the new turbo and other mods, the car still behaves the same at low load ie. you'd never know what kind of power it was putting out without stomping it, so i don't see any reason to do anything different on cold start

[Trozzle]

Oh no, I don't so much mean treating it differently as it has "more power", just wasn't sure if there were any other cold start precautions to take with the GT30 as to make sure it doesn't have a problem with oil flow while pressure is high or something. All G tho, looks like general consensus is do what I'm doing now thanks again fellas

[paulr33]

i mean if it was a $25k crate motor with 4500kms on the clock yep be careful, check everything go exact per the spec from the builder

but for a 10+ year old motor with sub 80,000+ ballpark on it, does it really matter?

as long as you dont red line it and load it up aggressively when cold it should be fine

[Trozzle]

Yeah that's generally what I'd though....but as I'm sure you may have noticed, I'm a little over-cautious I had 150xxx on the odo, but fk knows what the engine's done. probs got wound back when it came over, then engine swapped/rebuilt with stock parts again...meh it's healthy, and once it's not, out comes something stupid like $15k for an extensive build. Just would rather put that off until I can afford it off the road

[Randon_I_Am]

  Trozzle said:

Bumping my own thread to ask a different, yet relevant question:

Once these modifications have been done, is there any reason I will need to treat the car differently on cold start?

Right now it lives outside (fk my life gotta move out lol) so the engine itself is as cold as it's going to get each morning. I start it, allow it to run for 10 seconds, roll down my driveway (no throttle needed) then off down the road. The engine will be idling for roughly 90 seconds before it sees any throttle or load, at which point I take it down the street, not going above -0.5 bar vacuum, until I've driven roughly 1km, at which stage I come to the hill up the highway. At this point I will try to keep it out of positive manifold pressure until water temp is 65+

I use boost to determine how much throttle it's getting and therefore load, and I won't take it above 2500rpm until I go up the highway, at which stage it won't go above 4000rpm.

Should I just treat it exactly the same with new turbo etc, or different? Hell, am I even doing it right as I am now?

Thanks

Am I missing something here?

how on earth do ya get all the ice off the windows in 10 seconds?????????????????????????

[Trozzle]

By putting a sheet over it nub.

Also might be putting this off until I've moved out, just so I can do turbo install myself. The rough quote I received for everything has come up only a little bit over what I was hoping for, but unfortunately in light of a few other things that are going on right now, I can't spare it. Gotta save as much labour as I can, so considering injectors myself as well, then just getting it towed.

[Randon_I_Am]

hmmm I'm gonna need a big sheet for the van

[Trozzle]

Nah man, just a towel to at least clear the drivers side, and hold it to the roof with something that has a bit of weight. Then drape it over the window and you're set.