Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have the hks 2835 pro s turbo on my car. Happy enough with the power. Most I've had it at is 267kw @ 15psi. Didnt want to strain the turbo too much after blowing my last one. Happy with the power and the lag.

Also as far as im aware hks have now brought out the 2835 kai turbo, which I believe is an improvement on the pro s. If you really want the 3076r I'd talk to Mick as well, as he is running it on his 25.

edit: one of the reasons I went with the hks turbo, was apart from the heatshield it pretty much looks factory, and is a direct bolt on.

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Given Kris' claimed results on an internal, and the mention of police attention (I haven't been looked at twice by cops since I bought the car....first 5 or so months it had 5% tint all round so go figure) I'm leaning towards internal a little more at this stage, depending on just how much more external will end up being.

v66 still runs wasted spark I believe....unless I missed the part where they changed it. It's just the v44 but plug-in

EDIT: you said injector not ignition, my bad.

Edited by Trozzle

having made a boo-boo and ordered an EXTERNAL pump, not INTERNAL like I thought (bloody hell 040 and 044 look the same at a glance hey...) I'm now going to be receiving something I can't necessarily use all too easily. Can anyone point me in the direction of info regarding what's needed to use an external pump in place of an internal one? Might as well go with my f**kup now and use it, if it can be without too much trouble...

This is what you want...Bargain

Garrett gt3540 / gt35r bolt on turbo kit.. $2100 ono

.70 front, .82 rear, great condition - looks brand new, no smoke or oil residue anywhere, minimal/negligible shaft play

Includes Highmount manifold, 3" dump/front pipe & o2 sensor, braided oil feed line, water lines & fittings, external wastegate w/ screamer, stainless intake pipe to AFM, hose clamps & reducers, everything in the pictures! Can ship it anywhere in Oz

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wr...ts-t328761.html

Hey krayzie he could get that but the lag is just too bad on a 3540, i was considering upgrading my turbo to that but everyone kept saying its not that good for street due to the lag. There is a reason why many people say that the 3076R is the best turbo for the rb25 for street.

Heres my dyno sheet for my claimed power.

post-8025-1279177133_thumb.jpg

having made a boo-boo and ordered an EXTERNAL pump, not INTERNAL like I thought (bloody hell 040 and 044 look the same at a glance hey...) I'm now going to be receiving something I can't necessarily use all too easily. Can anyone point me in the direction of info regarding what's needed to use an external pump in place of an internal one? Might as well go with my f**kup now and use it, if it can be without too much trouble...

Im sure you will be able to get it to fit internally, just might need to customize the bracket to where its mounted too.

044 on factory rail

post-a295315-DSCF2644-.jpg

sweet, yeah I read into it quickly now that I'm home, and it can be mounted internally....just with modification to the bracket. That's ok with me lol.

And thanks for the dyno sheet man, makes me happy to see that work so well with internal gate etc

I'm not even after top end too much anyway, so a small drop up the top doesn't phase me. I realise that since I'm not after top end, that means I'm after response and pull...which is better with an external gate anyway :( either way, can't wait Kris I know I'll love it :D once I sort out how you have to mod this bracket for the 044 >.>

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which are almost all nonsense. Ignore. Obviously enough, if it is not a porous block, then any such thing is a waste of time. External block surface? Would be a waste of time, if the block was actually porous. It would need to go on the inside, which is inaccessible, and even if the block was open deck so that that area was acessible, it would be unlikely to work. But seeing as this is all nonsense, stop worrying about it.   If the coolant is coming from the side of the block it is 10:1 odds that it is either a welch plug, or it is coming from the head gasket. Maybe from one of the coolant lines feeding the turbo, or even the heater. Liquids that leak from up high can travel sideways along casting surfaces or pipes, etc on the engine before finding a spot from which to drop.
    • Yeah rust is sadly also a bit of an issue on my car. Doubt there is many cars out there that actually have no rust in those aeas. The strut towers look fine but some of the surounding metal sheets show a bit of brown cancer peeking out from in between. I hope I can make do with external remedies and won't have to rip open the whole front end anytime soon. It looks somewhat minor compared to some shit I have seen online. I have worked on a few cars but I expect the RB26 to be my first 'engine out' job at some point.
    • Welcome Jan, It's very likely that you are in over your head. You'll just have to learn to swim hard and fast! These old rust buckets have more ways to bankrupt us than almost any other car. But hopefully there's nothing wrong that ruins the whole show! We can help a fair bit. There's plenty here who've been fixing these things for >25 years. cheers
    • Hi all. First off, thanks for reading my post. So end of last season I put the car away knowing I was leaking at least two fluids. One of them being rear turbo's oil. I went to my car recently that is waiting in a garage to take a peek with my boroscope to try and see if I can narrow down the souce of oil before taking it out of storage. What I found is not so great I think. The rear turbo is (probably) leaking from the oil drain. The hose and it's clamps are probably the original ones, so most likely just worn out or loose. However I spotted a line of rust going straight down from the turbo oil feed, as if water leaked out of there at some point. Also explains the red liquid that was dripping from my front subframe, which I initially thought was power steering. I can even see coolant drops hanging off the side of the oil pan as well. After a quick hit on the web I found a select few discussions about porous engine blocks. My question is if the pics of the turbo oil feed and the left hand side of the block (imgur link below) looks like it could be exactly that to you. Maybe someone in the community has seen it before and knows what it looks like. If it actually is a porously leaking block, has anyone attempted at fixing it with simple methods like putting a sealer in the cooling system and using something like jb weld on the block surface, or will it just leak in 2 weeks again? I could not find any detailed info or pictures on this topic. If I need a new engine, tell me softly. https://imgur.com/a/knVvmZ8
    • Hey all. I'm 23 and from Germany, September last year I bought a mildly modded 1995 GTR Vspec. Looks great and was fun so far, but I already have a list of issues of various severity that I need to take care of, potentially growing longer the closer I look. I just hope I'm not in over my head, I really want to keep the car and work towards it becoming great. I hope y'all will help me out in getting there, I am positive I will need help sooner rather than later to figure out how to proceed. greetings, some pics of the car I posted to imgur. https://imgur.com/a/StKkabz
×
×
  • Create New...