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hey guys,

My rb20det r32 Gts4 manual stock really struggles to rev high, i know the stock turbos run out off puff a bit after 5rpm but i have now been in someone elses stock rb20det and it seemed to pull almost to redline (6500), at any rate it was much faster than mine. It has no cat so runs 11psi due to that. The engine has a fair amount of blow by (it uses oil), no catch can.

I have:

-replaced my old iridium 1.1 spark plugs with standard at 1.1 gap (becuase stock boost)

-taped up the coil packs with pretty average insulation tape

-changed fuel filter

-cleaned AFM with CRC AFM cleaner

-replaced ECU with another stock one

-sprayed brakecleen around intake to look for leaks (it holds boost till 5rpm then drops off to about 9psi close to redline which is normal i presume)

-put the factory airbox back on instead of pod

-blocked off BOV

i cant really get to a dyno which is what i know most of you will suggest.

Could this be R&R? I don't know if r32's have that and if it was R&R it's not sudden it just feels quick from 2-4500 rpm then really feels like an NA after that (

My last idea is that the coil packs are no good even though the car runs smoothly with no missfires, is there a way to test these? Unplugging them is no good becuase it idles fine. Or could be timing but don't have a timing light.

Thanks guys i know this is a lot of information but i'd really like to sort this out so if anyone has any ideas i'd be really grateful.

I have done a search on similar problems and people end up taking their car to the dyno then never explaining how it went or what the problem was

To sum up my questions:

- Does anyone know what could be causing this (R&R?, timing?)

- How do you test coilpacks using multimeter (i have searched and people have different explanations 0-1ohms between what 2 points?)

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rb20 ecu will take 1 bar, or at least close to. i don't know if they have R&R at all. they certainly wouldn't have it at 11psi as that is only just above stock boost.

what mods do you have?

also if you have blow by then that will be affecting things a bit as well. the blow by may be causing problems, as well as the cause of the blow by may be an issue as well.

First off.. it's an airflow meter overvoltage cut..

Secondly, not sure the RB20's have it.. if I could max out the airflow meter without hitting it then I doubt they do.

Thirdly, do they have knock maps? Because all the oil be breathed could be making it knock..

Thanks for the replies guys.. here's an update..

i have replaced the coil packs and replaced spark plugs with 0.8mm gap. This made bugger all difference to the power curve, so i then clutched at a straw and fiddled with the timing (by advancing it without a timing light haha) and it now runs a bit better through out the rev range. Still blows considerable smoke.

My mods are:

- No cat

That is all.

I have been searching how to do the timing properly as i can borrow a mates light but people seem to have different answers so could you please clarify? I tried hooking the light around the wires coming out of coilpack #1 and it gave good signal so i just used that and set it to what i believe to be around 17 but that made it worse so i put it back to where i had it with my trial and error timing.

Cheers

Edited by rorz

i have just been using the search function here and google extensively and i cannot for the life of me find a nice solid set of instructions for checking/setting timing using a timing light for rb20det. Could someone please make a sticky and lay down the basics? i know for a fact i have set my timing wrong becuase it's pinging hard even though it 'should' be at 15degrees. i believe this basic check could help a lot of people with flat spots.

Thank you

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