Skyline R34 1999 4wd Front Cv Joint Drive Shaft Replacement

[Les00x]

Les Lothringer's Approach to Replacing Skyline Front CV Joint Drive Shafts. May be applicable to other Skyline models.

- Cost: $198 vs. retail motor workshop charge of > $880 - check costs below. Costs are 2010 A$'s Melbourne prices.

- Duration: 5 - 6 hours one person plus time for wholesale workshop to renovate Drive Shafts.

- Difficulty Level: Easy for experienced motor repairers, unless something goes wrong. Check below for what can go wrong.

- Disclaimer: This describes my approach. If you choose to follow it and screw it up following this approach, remember - at all times, it's your fault. If you choose to follow it and get a different outcome, that's because you need to know more than what is described here. No responsibility for errors or ommissions. Every car can be different. Torque settings as per Nissan R32 GTR WSM.

- Reference: Nissan R32 GTR Workshop Manual. [Note: R34 online English WSM does not cover Suspension. If anyone knows of a

better R34 WSM source, do let me know].

- WSM Differences: WSM says to remove Brake Callipers. Also suggests removing Differential Cover to pry out right CV Joint Axle. I did neither.

- Special Tools: 36 mm Front Wheel Drive Axle Nut Socket 1/2" Drive [3/4" drive truck tool unnecessary], Wheel Hub Locking Bar.

WSM specifies special Nissan tool Flange Wrench page CH-210. Local Nissan dealership has never seen one. I made my own - check below.

- Other Tools: Pitman Arm Puller, Copper / Brass Head Soft Hammer, Hydraulic Trolley Jack, Bottle Jack, Thin Nose Pliers, Screwdriver, Torque Wrench, 1/2 " Wrenches, 1/2" Extension Drives, 12 mm Washers.

1/2" Sockets: Wheel Nuts - 21 mm, Stabilizer Bar to Wheel Hub Flange Nut - 14 mm, Lower Control Arm Ball Joint - 22 mm, Caster Rod to Lower Control Arm - 17 mm, Steering Link Ball Joint - 19 mm.

1/4" Socket: Inboard CV Joint Flange Bolts - 12 mm plus 1/4" Extension Drives 3" and 6".

- Parts: 3 x 2 Split Pins for wheel hub, lower suspension arm ball joint and steering rod ball joints.

- What Can Go Wrong: Many things. High powered / over powered engines can twist splines on outboard axles, so jamming in wheel hub. May require complete removal of wheel hub and upper suspension arm to then mount in a press. Re-fitting the Caster Rods into the Lower Control Arms was more difficult than on an R32. Over-tensioning bolts can cause them to shear off.

- Which Side First? Start with left side - slightly easier. Some right side inboard Axle Flange Bolts have no clearance to insert 1/2" 12 mm socket, so use 1/4" 12 mm socket and 1/4" socket Extension Drives. I used two - 3" and 6" lengths.

Approach:

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1. Making a Wheel Hub Locking Bar

Note: Jamming a long extension drive between the studs to lock the wheel hub may damage the studs.

- I used an old heavy Tyre Lever but steel plate should do, say 45 cm long x 5 cm wide x 8 mm thick.

- Tools: Vertical Drill Press, Bench Grinder, Hole Punch, Hammer, 12 mm drill, Dividers, Tracing Paper.

a. Use Punch to indent lever near one end.

b. Use Dividers to exactly mark off 67 mm [distance between stud centrelines] . Use Punch to indent lever again. This will fit over

two adjacent wheel hub studs.

c. Use Tracing Paper and draw two concentric circles, r = 33 mm, r = 57.5 mm.

d. On outer circle, mark two points at chord length 67 mm apart.

e. Overlay on Tyre Lever, line up the two points marked with the two indents. Mark area below 33 mm circle.

f. Drill two 12 mm holes at indents.

g. Use Bench Grinder to remove marked area and contour to shape of Flange on Disc on Wheel Hub.

h. Fit onto Wheel Hub to ensure proper fit.

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2. Set Up

a. Jack front of car, secure at four rigid points with axle stands, timber blocks.

b. Remove front wheels - 21 mm socket.

c. Remove under engine shroud - 9 bolts 10 mm socket and 3 plastic plugs.

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3. Remove Left CV Joint Axle.

a. Place Wheel Hub Locking Bar over studs, use wheel nuts and washers to clamp flush with Hub.

b. Remove Split Pin and Adjusting Cap from Lock Nut.

c. Attach the 36 mm socket and support with Bottle Jack. Support the Locking Bar [refer pictures].

d. Attach rigid lever, release Lock Nut and remove.

e. Remove the 3 x 2 inboard CV Joint Flange Bolts and Nuts - 12 mm socket. 1/4" or 1/2" drive will fit. Rotate axle to access.

f. Remove Split Pins and Nuts from Lower Ball Joint - 22 mm, Steering Link - 19 mm and Nuts from Caster Rod - 17 mm.

g. Use Pitman Arm Puller to separate Lower Control Arm from Ball Joint.

h. Because Disc Calliper has not been removed, the Puller cannot be used to separate the Steering Link [obstructed by ABS Sensor] . So, replace the castellated nut upside down and screw down to protect the thread. Use a 1/2 inch extension drive and soft hammer to separate the joint.

i. Remove nut from Stabilizer Bar Link to Hub Flange - 14 mm socket and spanner.

j. Swing Hub outwards and allow Outboard CV Joint Axle to slip back out of Wheel Hub. There should be no resistance here. If it is jammed, you have problem.

k. Lift axle out and remove. Note: Left side CV Joint Axle does not insert into Differential. Right side CV Joint Axle does

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4. Remove Right CV Joint Axle.

a. - d. As above.

e. Use 1/4" 3" and 6" Extension Drives and work around the Lock Ring. A 1/2" socket and extension drive can be used on a couple

but not all.

f. - j. As above.

k. Pull Axle outwards to extract from Differential. WSM suggests removing Differential Cover Plate to lever out Axle - not necessary. Just pull firmly.

l. Lift axle out and remove. Note: Place a pan under the Differential opening to catch the small amount of oil that will spill out.

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5. Take Axles to Workshop for Renovation. Costs.

a. Wholesale workshops charge $99 / axle [trade price] = $198. Some will charge $220 / axle = $440, same as retail garage if you are

not an account customer.

b. Retail garages typically quote $220 per axle to remove / replace and double up the axle renovation cost. Total cost = $880.

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6. Refit CV Joint Axles, Wheels.

- Installation is opposite sequence to removal. Fit new Split Pins to Hub Nut, Lower Ball Joint, Steering Link Ball Joint.

- Fitting the Caster Rods was slow, maybe due to Nolathane Bushes in Caster Rod [less flex]. I used a jack and long levers to move the suspension around until the Lower Control Arm lined up with the Caster Rod bolts.

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7. Torque Settings ft-lb average [from WSM].

- Flange Bolts = 24 [no chance of using a Torque Wrench, so one goes easy], Axle Nut = 200, Caster Rod Nuts = 87, Lower Ball Joint = 80, Steering Link Ball Joint = 25, Stabilizer Bar Link = 32, Wheel Nuts = 80.

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[paulr33]

very detailed, well done and thanks

[Race__24]

I just performed this on a S1 Stagea and have a few things to amend to the right hand side notes. The "lock ring" is not a lock ring, rather it contains the outer bearing race the gasket is actually a shim to adjust preload, don't muck with this, you can leave it as is. The axle is restrained with a circlip at the end of the splines. To get it out I removed the boot and slid the cv out. I then used a slide hammer attached with hose clamps and a L bracket to pull it out, putting a rag over the end to prevent any damage.