Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah you can. I had a heap of these made a while back. They are very expensive to have made but for the cost of a new N1 pump, you get unbreakable gears.

It's not something that's i'd do all over again but I put one in every new engine I build. Finding wire cutters and gear profilers is frickin time consuming!!!

^ correction - Most gears that is due to rev limiter abuse by the owner, which is a sure fire way to kill gears and ANY pump can be broken like that - even the Tomei.

Doesnt matter what crank you have in that scenario :P

^ correction - Most gears that is due to rev limiter abuse by the owner, which is a sure fire way to kill gears and ANY pump can be broken like that - even the Tomei.

Doesnt matter what crank you have in that scenario :D

I have to agree with R31Nismoid... But any limiter abuse can lead to that and many more problemes on any car. That can be taken out of the equation with some reasonable driving/shifting. From my experience and knowledge a nice N1 is good enough ! Just make sure you address the crank collar probleme if its a early model engine. As for billet gears , I know Nitto makes a oil pump for the RB but I have no idea on the performance/quality of this product.

http://www.nitto.com.au/products/oilpump-R...?vehicle=nissan

just my 2 cents :P

^ correction - Most gears that is due to rev limiter abuse by the owner, which is a sure fire way to kill gears and ANY pump can be broken like that - even the Tomei.

Doesnt matter what crank you have in that scenario :(

I really think it is down to the poor tolerance between the drive and the gears, then when you start applying on/off torque such as bouncing the limiter or heaps of pedalling, they break.

Good tolerance, good balancing and a decent harmonic balancer. (And some gears that aren't made of a sintered material).

Edited by bubba
^ correction - Most gears that is due to rev limiter abuse by the owner, which is a sure fire way to kill gears and ANY pump can be broken like that - even the Tomei.

Doesnt matter what crank you have in that scenario :)

I thought so too until I supplied 2 (two) N1 pumps to customers (from Nissan), both cars fitted with crank collars and both cracked the gear. One in less than 5000 kms, and the other in about 12,000kms.

Neither car saw over 7000rpm and had aftermarket harmonic balancers. That was good enough for me to lose faith in them completely

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
    • I reckon you'd get 90% off. My washer doesn't get between spokes very well. Haha! I love my Gerni!  Argh! Steam cleaning has its place for sure.
    • Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v?        SAU.avi
    • My lord that is some low oil pressure as minimum in the manual! I guess the big part will be seeing how it changes as the engine gets more spirited use.
×
×
  • Create New...