Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Just had a phone call about my r32 gtr and it's not good news

it has come back no good on the leak down test and I've been told the rings are passing oil which explains the smoke anyway Im just woundering wat the bottom end rebuild will invole part wise and cost wise ?????

Also wanna know if their is anything esle that I should do to the engine while in the state of no play e.g replace anything important while I'm their ?? Some told me to rebuild the whole engine but as we all know money don't grow in trees

Also compression test wasn't to bad at all

please help me out guys

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329139-bottem-end-rebuild-please-help/
Share on other sites

You have a few options and it depends where you want to take the car power wise.

1. look for a low genuine km half cut and do an engine transplant, swap any goodies/better parts over and sell the rest. - make sure this is tested by an independent company as a condition of purchase - you'll have to pay for the test.

A good half cut can be had for $10-11k, and there are a lot of parts you can sell and recover a reasonable amount of $ from. You'll probably get a few extras like boost controller, turbo timer, cams, turbos perhaps, but I'd be looking for something thats had no mods done at all, or very few.

I got a 94 GTR half cut for $11k from a guy called Ken James. I had STZ in Brisbane test it and it came up great. Cost about $500 to ship to Perth by road. I got the entire car as far as mechanicals go all the way to the rear wheel hubs. Only thing that was missing from the car was bodywork from the gearbox's rear yoke rearwards, doors windscreen, roof and seats. I ended up using most of the stuff inc the rear cradle, diff, wheel hubs gearbox, etc as it was better than mine. It also had a few extras like some atmo BOVs, ecu, and some other bits and pieces. :)

You can do most of the work with stripping and preparing the bits from the half cut yourself if you've got say a double *garage* to do the work in and an engine crane. Then you're just up for about $500-1000 in labour for an engine swap.

2. Rebuild

2a. Bare minimum build - just fix whats wrong. If its only rings, it'll be cheap, but also do bearings - they are cheap. Your engine builder can advise

2b. Better build - As suggested already, forged pistons etc. Limited only by your budget. Go speak to a reputable engine builder, outline your budget.

Go somewhere reputable for any work you do - kinda goes without saying really. This generally means some where that does this day in day out and is familiar with high performance turbo engines, preferably the RB26.

Good luck... its not as dim a situation as it may seem. Save some $ and do it right if you can afford the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have just offended every teenage boy in America
    • Structured text and other high level PLC programing languages are not allowable in Functional Safety. They are very difficult to audit. My PLC stuff is almost exclusively oriented towards Burner Management Systems which are a particularly pernicious form of Safety Instrumented System, when implemented in an SPLC. Even the part of the code written to work in the non-safety logic part of the PLC, like with a Siemens S7-1500 series, still needs to be treated as if it was safety code, with access restrictions, code fingreprints and the like. And Allen Bradley can go EABODs. They ae full of shit. They have this whole lie going on where they say if you use a ControlLogix controller and its IO, and then just duplicate the IOs (ie, run in series or parallel depending on type, to try to make it "fail safe") and "use these programming styles and place these restrictions on what you do" that you can achieve SIL2. What a load of crap. They just get away with it because no-one in the US seems to understand the first thing about Functional Safety and carries on as if all they have to do is buy only SIL2 rated equipment and hey presto, it's a SIL2 system. Idiots. /rant
    • If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
    • It doesn't seem to follow revs. Oddly it seems to follow TPS a little bit from what I can see, but with some delay a bit. IE end of the graph, when he lets off throttle fully, pressure drops a lot, then slowly builds back up, but rpm is on a nice cruisey drop off. I do agree though, it seems very electrically.
×
×
  • Create New...