Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Funny they dont like the pump fuel but are able to supply you a better product at twice the price. :P

I have had no variation using the southland blends, there is a difference between that and the CSR though, nothing a little 98 wont fix. Once you have a wideband installed you will have no issue.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  femno said:
IMO I think its extremely dicey to rely on factory knock sensors as they are produced on factory to detect knock at frequencies that are far different from those which occur in a modified engine setup ie turbos, exhausts, then internals etc etc.

Apart from the fact that pulling timing when knock is produced isnt an accurate way to tune timing under full load and wont give best results.

Each to their own but I dont think its fair suggesting a novice to tune his own car without proper use of a dyno.

Its nowhere near as simple as 'pay money for the hardware, do some reading, and tune the car yourself'.

Agreed it may be good for tuning cruise etc, but not for a full tune which includes full load cells.

Just something for the OP and other people considering tuning their own cars to consider.

like i said its not ideal and in no way can you ganruntee it'll work for everyone, but it works well enough on my car for me to trust it. been doing it for over a year and the motors still going strong so it cant be that bad, will be pulling it apart within the next couple of weeks to go 30det, so will have a look for any signs of detonation.

and yes a set and forget street tune wont be as safe as a dyno tune with proper knock detecting, but when doing your own tuning you tend to spend a shitload more time on it than any workshop does and you never let any knock go un checked, so in that way i find it safer. but once again everyones different

  scotty nm35 said:
Funny they dont like the pump fuel but are able to supply you a better product at twice the price. :D

I have had no variation using the southland blends, there is a difference between that and the CSR though, nothing a little 98 wont fix. Once you have a wideband installed you will have no issue.

Im in Adelaide and there's only one place you can get E85 from the bowser - apparently with wildly varying results at different times so I was advised against it for safety reasons (as the car is a daily)... Tuner was happy to tune it on E85 out of a drum, or on the bowser E85 "at my risk" but trckons a 50/50 blend will be overall better anyway.

See what happens on Monday.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
  • Create New...