Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

VN's are awesome, one of the best as strange as it may sound. they can be had for nothing (literally, i got a clean one for free) good strong diff suitable for welding, again free (welded it up myself) and they will cop a hiding all day without a drama.

too many people get caught up chasing a number when buying/modifying their car, and they forget its all about having fun. VN with welded diff is one of the most fun things i have ever come across, automotive or other

VN's are awesome, one of the best as strange as it may sound. they can be had for nothing (literally, i got a clean one for free) good strong diff suitable for welding, again free (welded it up myself) and they will cop a hiding all day without a drama.

too many people get caught up chasing a number when buying/modifying their car, and they forget its all about having fun. VN with welded diff is one of the most fun things i have ever come across, automotive or other

Personally I dont have a welded diff, but they can be great fun, good power to weight ratio for such a cheap car of nearly 100kw per ton. I got a VP wagon and if I give it the beans it always brings a smile to my face. Also its all about how cheap parts are for it, for instance the voltage regulator in my alternator was dying (the original regulator from the factory 18 years and 340,000kms later), $33 and 30 minutes later it was fixed good as new. I've seen a fair few supercharged/Turbo Buick's and Ecotec's in Zoom and Boost and they are cranking out some serious power quite reliably too.

Japanese engineering is brilliant dont get me wrong but those engines are designed to be perfect and treated with the upmost respect by the driver, not to be driven by hoons bouncing off rev limiter. American/Australian engineered engines are designed to be idiot proof so you thrash them around all day and they will be fine with little to no maintainance.

Edited by FrangaR33

Man if you are serious about anything like that you should look at performance forums, guys doing that stuff all day long. my boss is putting a VH45 into a VH commodore, and it gets better the size of the turbo he is then gonna add to it, is huge bigger then alot of turbos that i have seen on even the majority of 2J's.

I say if you have the time and persistence then go for it.

Good to see people thinking out side the box. Even if i personally thinks commodores are crap and RB's rule. i didn't check where you where from but if you can make it to Noosa you should see the guys at AM Auto they do a lot of custom work like this, most people on this forums have most likely seen there work even if you don't know it

Hey there,

Im looking for some advice. I have a VS Commodore which i no longer drive anymore and im looking seriously at putting an RB26DETT into it. For the time being i would want it to be pretty close to stock with a manual gearbox. My main questions are:

1. What will i need other than a front cut?

2. I have seen an RB25 in VS, is there much difference?

3. Who would be a reputable workshop to do this type of work?

Thanks for your help.

im guessing its for drags.

go 2jz. stroke it.

Friend put a rb25 into his vs many moons ago. It was a good car and the conversion isnt that difficult. Your talking vl crossmember custom gearbox crossmember and a new tail shaft for the mechanical side. Hydraulic clutch for hydraulic side. Wiring and piping. However when he was finished he was left with basically a r33 gtst. (performance wise) So maybe its not worth it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
×
×
  • Create New...