Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As for those twin scroll turbine housings from ATP , have a look inside them if possible because some people reckon they're a bit dodgy looking . I've no idea who makes them and no ones said they have Garrett markings on them so anyone's guess .

A .

just received myne yesterday. has ATP cast onto the housing so i assume its made by them. some of the machining leaves a little to be desired and the outlet area looks like a choke point but hopefully it'll work a lot better than the IW housing i have at the moment.

some shitty phone pics. thats a 3" v band flange sitting on both sides to give you an idea of the small diameter inside, very different to the garrett housings which are a smooth and progressive opening from the turbine size to the flange size as in the first pic.

10012009049.jpg

Image0031.jpg

Image0030.jpg

Image0028.jpg

Image0027.jpg

Image0026.jpg

Image0025.jpg

Image0025.jpg

Image0032.jpg

Edited by JonnoHR31

found one. anything in particular you want to see? took shitloads of photos anyway. one more thing i noticed is theres no machined area around the bolt holes for a nut to seat, might have to get into it with the grinder.

http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/dd251/JonnoHR31/turbo/

Is that a twin scroll internally gated turbine housing?

In regards to other questions asked here, the 1.06a/r T4 twin scroll GT3076Rs spool AWESOME in all the cases I have seen - quicker than the .82a/r T3 housing when used with a proper T4 TS manifold. It'd go very very nicely!

Hell, a GT3582R with a 1.06a/r T4 Twin scroll housing spools similar to a .82a/r T3 GT3076 :D

When your fit the CHRA you might want to check how far the CHRA bolts protrude into the volute. Try and grind them back so they are flush with the inner wall if you can.

This is a tip that Full-Race mentions on their web page with regard to the .78 twin scroll housing....it might apply to the 1.06 housing as well.

Edited by juggernaut1
  • 4 months later...

n regards to other questions asked here, the 1.06a/r T4 twin scroll GT3076Rs spool AWESOME in all the cases I have seen - quicker than the .82a/r T3 housing when used with a proper T4 TS manifold. It'd go very very nicely!

That's good to hear...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...