Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

so ive limited the my choice of wheels down to two.

im not racing on them they are purely for street looks

being 4 stud im limited ... but i have found some i like but need help choosing haha

so first ones are the koya drift teks (i know there copies of the uras and they are copies of bee*r's)

andd

Koya Rg teks (apparently just been released)

ill be going 18'' and probly +34 offset ... ive been told offset doesnt change the dish.

so ive decided to turn to sau for opinions.

post-67206-1279359868_thumb.jpg

post-67206-1279359907_thumb.jpg

post-67206-1279359986_thumb.jpg

Edited by aussietroy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329289-need-help-picking-rims-for-my-32/
Share on other sites

haha, i like the dish of the lip on the nismo LMGT4's but they are too flat in the spokes imo ...

thats why i like the drifteks but thats just me

im not sure if the rims will get lost with silver on silver or not

but then again the darker ones will probly get lost at night ...

yeh im leaning more towards the drift teks

im abit funny on the rg teks ... there new so it would be something unique ....

but i have always liked drift teks and all the rims that they are copies of haha

haha, i like the dish of the lip on the nismo LMGT4's but they are too flat in the spokes imo ...

thats why i like the drifteks but thats just me

im not sure if the rims will get lost with silver on silver or not

but then again the darker ones will probly get lost at night ...

Go black or bronze in wheel colour and that should stand out to give some contrast.

Another wheel you might want to look into, Bee*R Racing Wheels.

wheelsilver01.jpg

yeh they are nice, but im pretty sure there discontinued and pretty pricey.

getting in 4stud is pretty hard and redrilling is too much effort.

going the cheap option haha

i think im gana go the drifteks

there copies of bee*r's and Lmgt4's.

done a fair bit of research haha

mate..

i know you get asked this all the time.. but why arent you going japanese??? are you SURE you cant afford it? like ACTUALLY sure?

pm me... i may have something for you... and yes. four stud is hard.. but not impossible!!!! if you want jap... get jap.

you never know. it may work out cheaper as a wheel n tyre package... hit me pm if you interested.

im assuming youre fairly new to these forums. quick lesson for you. if you buy cheap. you buy twice. howevr i may save you money anyway.

STOP THE COPY.

yeh they are nice, but im pretty sure there discontinued and pretty pricey.

getting in 4stud is pretty hard and redrilling is too much effort.

going the cheap option haha

i think im gana go the drifteks

there copies of bee*r's and Lmgt4's.

done a fair bit of research haha

Drift Teks it is man!

Get on it.

:happy:

i know from research that jap wheels are better quality and stronger and stuff but im not going to be racing they will only be for street use.

The drift teks are fair cheap and look good.

what would be the best offset to go without having to modify guards ??

thanks heaps for the help guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...