Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, as title suggests, I got my aftermarket ECU tuned today. WOW is all i can say, the difference in torque and power is unbelievable.

From lookin at the Graph, ive gained 20rwkws + in mid range over a number of spots, and a total of about 10rwkws in max power. This is all done using same boost level of 13psi.

On the road, the car is breaking traction in 2nd which it didnt used to do. Acceleration feels great and the seat of the pants feeling is definately more.

The car has been tuned to an excellent AFR of 12:1 and they put in about 10deg more base timing. The dyno was run in non-shootout mode, so i would assume that if it were shootout mode, the figure would be in the 200's :).

So rounding things up, the car is alot more driveable, there is power increase everywhere and the power curve is alot more smoother which is nice.

I still have to get my ebc workin so that i can hold 1bar of boost. ATM the bleeder is getting to 15psi, then droppin to 13psi. I also have an adjustable cam gear exh side gettin here soon aswell as finishin installin my CAI and partition.

Current mods are Trust front pipe, 3inch exhaust, HKS pod, GTR intercooler, unichip, and bleeder set to 13psi. Also I have heatwrapped all piping under bonnet, and daim, those temperatures are now kept down. It wasnt even hot after a huge burn thru the hills :)

So in summary, I think the Unichip is very underrated. It was perfect for my needs, and I am very happy with it. :headspin:

R31Nismoid: I bought the Unichip of ebay for $550. Tuning was $250.

Basically it was an absolute bargin. And SAFC II which would have cost more has not nearly as many functions, as Unichip can do somethin like 400 ign/fuel points.

Strutto: Im running a stock turbo, well it says nissan on the cover. By Front pipe, i mean after the stock dump, the pipe after that that connects to the cat.

Congrats Dean, nice result. Did they say why were the runs done in 2nd gear? It wont effect the peak power figure anyways, and is still good for comparison as the first run was done in the same gear. $250 for a full tune is a good price too, wish power fc was that cheap:p

Installing an Adjustable Ex Cam Gear is gonna easily crack the 200rwkw mark before you get it retuned. Im no expert but are your AFR's still all over the place alittle ? (I honestly have nfi with AFR's).

Have you got pineapples in the rear ?

Also if its the stock turbo how long do you plan on running 15psi thru it for ? :wassup:

Steve: Id definately say dyno runs wer done in 3rd. Have a closer look at speeds.

Benm: The AFRs are really good. Looks like a consistent 12:1 which is optimal for a Turbo charged engine. Im actually running 13psi atm, but wanna run 15psi. I dont gun it much anyway. I still gotta do some more investigating into it thou. Also i have Tien HAs, no pineapples, but asky bushy2k, i have no trouble launchin hard ;)

Bushy2k: Bring it on bro, I still got some more things to put on, so the car will be quicker. It does feel alot quicker. Heaps more torque.

I was always very impressed by my Unichip (when I had it) It's only when the stock ECU reaches its limitations does the Unichip become an issue. At the time (3yrs ago) no Unichip agent (including APS) could confirm for me that the Unichip/stock ECU combo could work via a Z32 AFM? At ~225rwkw the Unichip could no longer prevent massive timing reduction via the stock ECU sensing a seriously maxed out AFM voltage! It was for this reason (& a few others) that I removed my Unichip & went for a fully programmable ECU.

Dean you may find your car doesn't display the same characteristics as mine did (I also had a much larger turbo & cam gear adjustment at the time) but as airflow gets higher, via improved breathing, your AFM will reach the same point mine did. Your stock ECU will be the deciding factor. Mine pulled 15' timing out 3x in one power run. This resulted in a peak of ~225rwkw with a number of 15-30rwkw dips, & a pig of a car to drive ;) Think, 'good ol' R33 flatspot,' & then you'll know what I mean.

If someone has successfully got a Z32 AFM to work with the stock ECU (don't see why not) then you'll have no problems :D

EDIT: Just had a good look at the dyno sheet mate. Firstly, congrats on the power. Second, your before & after power curves are the same as mine were! :D I asked Turbo Tune at the time (only real option for tuning Unichip in SA - unless you head to Port Augusta) if they could do a Z32-stock ECU set-up, they weren't sure but would give it a go! I didn't bother. Ask TT why they couldn't completely get the rid of the small dips in your power curve? I'll be interested to see the answer.

Nice result.

Just a couple question though.

1. Why was the run done in 3rd and not 4th?

2. Why wasn't the run done in Shootout mode?

3. One of the dips in your power curve should be the NVCS, what is the other due to?

Cheers

Paul

Paul, when I had my car dyno'd, they told me they had to do it in 3rd or they'd hit the speed limiter. Also, isn't shootout mode really just there for comparisons? If you're just after a tuned car then why would they put it in that mode? I know I personally would like it tuned in shootout mode so I could compare, but some tuners just don't care about that, they just care about the before/after.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know mentally you're set on the ATS clutch but honestly I'm a big fan of the Nismo Super Coppermix Twin. It's much cheaper and in some ways I think it's a better design for a street/circuit car.
    • Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
×
×
  • Create New...