Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did someone say fight..........[running fast but careful not to spill or drop stubby]!!!

I usually put my hand over the rocker cap area and measure how hard it trys to blow it off, but then I'm no garage or tuning expert.....thats how bad I think its choofing and the thread starter didn't ask for any specific car, just what is blowby? Just as long as we don't start on negative crankcase pressure hey.......

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

guilt-toy post up ur opinion mate, would be good to hear some more of the experienced guys opinions

on a side note, is it really possible to get an idea of the condition of a engine by going off the oil filler cap? and are all engines the same/similar? (elite mentioned before nissans are sealed engines). or is it better to compression/leak down test. main reason i wanna know is when your going to look at a car to buy alot of the time its hard to a full on compression test over all the cylinders, testing via the filler cap would be a much much quicker way

excessive is filling a 2L catch can after a few laps of a track with oil.. simple as that haha.

i got a question tho.. does hitting the limiter have an affect on blow by at all?

Well.....not really.

There is a difference between excessive blowby and cam cover filling. If you have a high volume oil pump, your engine can still be very healthy and fill a 2L catch can.

Fineline's R33 is a perfect example......cannot get one drop of oil to go into his primary can on the street or on the dyno but throw a high speed corner in and 2L in 3 laps of QR. That's purely because the head is hydraulic and we can't limit the oil to the top otherwise he will wear out his valvetrain components. It's also a street car so we need to consider this as well.

Excessive blowby will do things like push the dipstick out (but even that can be tricky as most of the dipsticks are old these days so they don't seal so well anyway). It can pump oil into catch cans but if it's not doing it in a straight line at high rpm then I suggest the problem may not be excessive blowby.

Yes detonation or missfiring or hitting the rev limiter will cause torsional ring twisting which does create excessive blowby but only for the duration of the missfire.

Well.....not really.

There is a difference between excessive blowby and cam cover filling. If you have a high volume oil pump, your engine can still be very healthy and fill a 2L catch can.

Fineline's R33 is a perfect example......cannot get one drop of oil to go into his primary can on the street or on the dyno but throw a high speed corner in and 2L in 3 laps of QR. That's purely because the head is hydraulic and we can't limit the oil to the top otherwise he will wear out his valvetrain components. It's also a street car so we need to consider this as well.

Excessive blowby will do things like push the dipstick out (but even that can be tricky as most of the dipsticks are old these days so they don't seal so well anyway). It can pump oil into catch cans but if it's not doing it in a straight line at high rpm then I suggest the problem may not be excessive blowby.

Yes detonation or missfiring or hitting the rev limiter will cause torsional ring twisting which does create excessive blowby but only for the duration of the missfire.

cool thanks for that.

last track day i got a tiny bit of oil in catch can but motor saw limiter a lot and was over full as well.. think they were factors.

in my CA18's case.. few laps it would empty the sump. oil everywhere, dipstick went flying and run like shit.... pretty sure that was excessive blowby :D

cool thanks for that.

last track day i got a tiny bit of oil in catch can but motor saw limiter a lot and was over full as well.. think they were factors.

in my CA18's case.. few laps it would empty the sump. oil everywhere, dipstick went flying and run like shit.... pretty sure that was excessive blowby :D

Haha yeah I think that CA was trying to tell you something.

Many of you have absolutely no idea what 'excessive' is.

If you take the oil cap off any of the nissan turbo engines, the engine should drop in idle or nearly stall. They are a sealed engine. The cylinder head is SPLASH lubricated so it is meant to throw oil around there.

Fumes coming from the rocker cover breathers or out of the oil cap means nothing. The engine has to breathe. If it doesn't, bad shit happens.

The most annoying thing to hear is ppl going on about so called 'blowby' because when the car is on the dyno, fumes were coming out of their catch can breather or from their cover breather.

I know cars drop revs. But this thing was dying, no two ways about it.

I have not seen an RB with such an issue yet. I can assure you none of my Rb25s (or mates RB20s) have come anywhere near dying when removing the cap, nor is there any real "choofing", and as for oil, one or two splatters on the cam cover only.

The S15 was in a different league, and yes, thats a different league to the other S15's I checked. A friends S15 checked the very next day seemed to have a nice choof, but would idle, and not splatter oil everywhere. The S15 I checked was litterally blowing oil out, not splattering it.

IMO thats excessive. Also noticable on shut off, the engine ran on, which I saw as a sign of low compression in the cylinders.

Everyone has different ideas on blow by and what is 'excessive', but I'm happy I walked away from that one! I won't be touching one again in that state either :happy:

I know cars drop revs. But this thing was dying, no two ways about it.

I have not seen an RB with such an issue yet. I can assure you none of my Rb25s (or mates RB20s) have come anywhere near dying when removing the cap, nor is there any real "choofing", and as for oil, one or two splatters on the cam cover only.

The S15 was in a different league, and yes, thats a different league to the other S15's I checked. A friends S15 checked the very next day seemed to have a nice choof, but would idle, and not splatter oil everywhere. The S15 I checked was litterally blowing oil out, not splattering it.

IMO thats excessive. Also noticable on shut off, the engine ran on, which I saw as a sign of low compression in the cylinders.

Everyone has different ideas on blow by and what is 'excessive', but I'm happy I walked away from that one! I won't be touching one again in that state either :happy:

Yes certainly if there is a noticeable difference between two cars the same, you can use that to gauge what is excessive or not. Only using your post as an example because the revs will drop and oil will come out if you take the cap off. Some ppl will read about the revs dropping and soon everyone will be stressing about buggered engines lol.

Engine dying is not a good sign, unless the idle was a little too low already. But yeah, referring to your better judgement is always best. My main point in all of this is basically that not everyone should stress out about oil in a catch can or fumes coming from breathers.

Hopefully the ppl who read from top to bottom of this thread will be able to use the information to be able to gauge it for themselves when they inspect a car. But when in doubt, get a leakdown test done.....they don't lie when done properly

The revs dropping and/or stalling is due to the PCV and exh cam cover -> turbo inlet breather correct? And the fact they are drawing in a small amount of un-metered air?

Assuming that the car still has the factory AFM setup that is.

The revs dropping and/or stalling is due to the PCV and exh cam cover -> turbo inlet breather correct? And the fact they are drawing in a small amount of un-metered air?

Assuming that the car still has the factory AFM setup that is.

Yes that is correct.

However, it's not like introducing a direct leak to an intercooler pipe, it's more of an in-direct addition of unmetered air through the ventilation system into the intake

The more boost I run the more hydrocarbon liquid stuff ends up in the can, 11 psi I get nothing but at 15 psi after a track day I get 100-200 mils, no oil though, Im running R compound tyres but I don't think my balls and skills are up to pushing to many G,s.

Think I need to go faster through corners but someone keeps staying on the brake for to long.....................

The more boost I run the more hydrocarbon liquid stuff ends up in the can, 11 psi I get nothing but at 15 psi after a track day I get 100-200 mils, no oil though, Im running R compound tyres but I don't think my balls and skills are up to pushing to many G,s.

Think I need to go faster through corners but someone keeps staying on the brake for to long.....................

Easier said ten done, but commitent is the key! go into a corner half arsed and its all over from the start. Commitment to the terrain seperates the man from the sheep!

What about white smoke out of the tail pipe. I just noticed some more than normal blowby after installing this turbo. Im thinking its blowby from the piston rings b/c at idle im seeing smoke from the cacth can and the oil dipstick when removed. It could be the turbo but doubt it. The dipstick hasnt popped out after hard acceleration yet..

What about white smoke out of the tail pipe. I just noticed some more than normal blowby after installing this turbo. Im thinking its blowby from the piston rings b/c at idle im seeing smoke from the cacth can and the oil dipstick when removed. It could be the turbo but doubt it. The dipstick hasnt popped out after hard acceleration yet..

You'll see some smoke in any and all cases, just differing amounts.

A compression test + leakdown test will answer your question properly.

Ask any decent mechanic who is wearing his mechanics uniform in the mechanics workshop.

Not the internet mechanics with propeller hats. Try and imagine every post ITT coming from the same person. lol..

(I am an internet mechanic with a propeller hat as well so you know.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...