Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

stagea one is better. no cooler or should i say warmer... ideal for a relocator conversion. but the new ones are all aluminuim. early ones (one of a motor) has a steel thread.

or if you want a rb20 one is better again. but straight out of the block, not angled. new ones have a steel thread. but you have to use a toyota filter (z418) or any with a relief valve in it)

I have several laying around my shed you can have one for free if you are going to use one. They are pretty useless and you would be better off with a relocation kit and aftermarket oil cooler but as i said if you do want to use a factory one you can have one for free just pay the freight or if you are on the gold coast or brissy area just pm me and you can pick one up.

jJust to clarify when you guys say to get rid of it and fit a relocator and external cooler dont they replace just the filter and is there a housing off a different rb that still has both the pressure and temp fittings? I there any kind of aftermarket cooler that replaces just the heat exchanger part and leaves all the other bits exactly the same? Obviously you would have to jump the coolant line back into itself.

what about (factory oil coolers) my 1993 gtr has an oild cooler mounted in the front passenger side vent... is this a factory setup??

i was wondering about it???

cheers

Not factory, the factory oil cooler (oil/water heat exchanger is a more accurate description of it's function) is as what the the picture suggests, attached to the block.

Oil cooler kits found on the passenger side behind the front bumper are aftermarket ones.

The oil cooler shown above is as much an oil warmer as anything. It does very little to keep the oil cool. It is not uncommon for the part to fail also.

So the question is - is there an aftermarket part that replaces the oil cooler bracket in the diagram at the top and removes the oil cooler/warmer as fitted by Nissan?

Yeah i hear ya,

but what i mean is, alot of the Nismo equipment is offered on a new purchase.. so essentially its a"factory"option. Note the quotations.

And i dont believe there is a bolt on replacement for the factory oil warmer/cooler.

Oil cooler kits found on the passenger side behind the front bumper are aftermarket ones.

The oil cooler shown above is as much an oil warmer as anything. It does very little to keep the oil cool. It is not uncommon for the part to fail also.

So the question is - is there an aftermarket part that replaces the oil cooler bracket in the diagram at the top and removes the oil cooler/warmer as fitted by Nissan?

The RB20 doesn't have the factory oil warmer, so the taking the mount from it (housing, bracket? im not sure what the name of it is) is popular when you have an A/M oil cooler.

$120 fron nissan for a rb20 one.

unbolt your oil cooler/filter housing and bolt the 20 one in its place. use a z418 filter, not the genuine nissan 145 as you no longer have a relief valve.

(rb20 has it on the block, where as rb25/26 has that part blocked off and instead has them in the oil cooler/filter housing)

if you are using a remote filter, put the oil pressure sensor in it there, and lengthen the wiring to it. if not then use the 1/8 npt port to the rear of where the filter/cooler housing bolts on to the engine. (at about cylinder 5 along the block)

nismo has a replacement housing, but its like $1000. it has 2 -12an fittings where the cooler sits.

also nismo has a oil cooler kit, said housing, with a custom aircon condensor with a 25 row oil cooler integrated into it. i have one in my garage. i had the brocher for it but i lost it. was an option for the aussie deliverd ones.

post-19586-1279960505_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
    • Yes I as well would like to find out where I could get some of the seat material with the red or blue small squares in it
×
×
  • Create New...