Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I a very happy father of a R34 GTR that pulled out 278 RWKW on a conservative dyno (SST's) with:

* standard turbos

* standard ECU

* standard fuel system

* standard internals

+ full Blitz exhaust

+ HKS dumps

+ HKS pod filters

+ Trust intercooler

+ 1.2 bar Boost (Norgren boost set up)

article from SPEED magazine has a quote:

"leaving the GTR unmodified is as cruel as teaching bears how to dance"

I couldnt agree more. More mods on the way.

Jeremy

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi Jeremy, Steve told me about your car, I was blown away by the figure, even though you pushed the boost quite high for the stock turbos. Bummer I wasn't there, as I'm there almost every other day. Hope you have lots of mods planned:D

Don't forget that SST's is a Shootout Accredited Dyno, so the power readings should be able to be compared across all of Oz, without people thinking the figures are bullshit:D It goes to show that the R34 GTR was much more than the gentlemans agreement 206kW would suggest. The most we've had out of a stock turbo'd R32 GTR is 344rwhp on the SST dyno.

Hope to see you car at the next SAUWA dyno comp:D

Cheers

Paul

Paul,

Yeah I was pretty happy and that figure is with the standard ECU although I think it must have been chipped.

Jeremy

  GTS-t VSPEC said:
Hi Jeremy, Steve told me about your car, I was blown away by the figure, even though you pushed the boost quite high for the stock turbos. Bummer I wasn't there, as I'm there almost every other day. Hope you have lots of mods planned:D

Don't forget that SST's is a Shootout Accredited Dyno, so the power readings should be able to be compared across all of Oz, without people thinking the figures are bullshit:D It goes to show that the R34 GTR was much more than the gentlemans agreement 206kW would suggest. The most we've had out of a stock turbo'd R32 GTR is 344rwhp on the SST dyno.

Hope to see you car at the next SAUWA dyno comp:D

Cheers

Paul

Wow!! That's alot of kw @the rears. What boost were you running? I'm really suprised & no offence a little sceptical at your figures. I hit 270kw at the rears on ben @ racepace's dyno in shootout with the following:

Stock Turbos - ~15psi

Apexi Power FC

Cam Gears

Full Exhaust (stock cat & dumps)

HKS Pods

I doubt the ecu is stock, have you checked it?

I had a 100% stock R34 GT-R V Spec put on a dyno at AVO in chelt and it produced 221rwkw.

Mine is being dyno'd this week at racepace and I'll post the results here. My mods will be basically the same as jezzrrr plus I'll have a power fc + cam gears. (I even have a Blitz exhaust and a Trust FMIC!)

I'd also like to know what boost you were running on the stock turbos.

  meshmesh said:
Wow!! That's alot of kw @the rears. What boost were you running? I'm really suprised & no offence a little sceptical at your figures. I hit 270kw at the rears on ben @ racepace's dyno in shootout with the following:

Stock Turbos - ~15psi

Apexi Power FC

Cam Gears

Full Exhaust (stock cat & dumps)

HKS Pods

I doubt the ecu is stock, have you checked it?

The stock ECU is definately able to handle this kind of power figure.

I had an R32 GTR than ran a stock ECU, Stock Turbo's, Stock Injectors, Stock Fuel Pump, Stock Cooler etc etc.

In the mods department it had very little...Trust Front Pipes, HKS Hyper Cat Back Exhaust, Straight Through Cat, HKS Cam Gears, Trust Pod Filters and a home made Bleed Valve set to 1.1 bar.

This set up, on the Racepace dyno, made 260rwkw. I guess you have to remember that mine was a much older 94 32 GTR, so the engine and all it's parts would be a lot more tired than a fresh 34 GTR.

In saying all this though, I must admit that this really is taking things to the limit and really would be better if some other items such as fuel pump, injectors and ECU were changed. My 32 GTR was maxing out the injectors and the pump was only just keeping the pressure stable.

Meshmesh, I noticed you list above that you have a stock cat and dumps, if you change these I think you will see a great increase in power and torque.

Cheers,

Shaun.

  HIRISK said:
Meshmesh, I noticed you list above that you have a stock cat and dumps, if you change these I think you will see a great increase in power and torque.

Cheers,

Shaun.

Funny you say that! Spoken to varous people with varying opinions :confused: I'm

About to go the next stage....

Just picked up my turbos today :) HKS GT2530's, Waiting for my SARD 700cc injectors, 044 fuel pump, HKS EVC 4 & Z32 AFM's. Asked my mechanics about the dumps & they reckon stick with the stock as they saw no real gain on the dyno..still confused. As far as the cat, I've been told the gtr cat are pretty good flowing, & mines probably half blow out ;). So dunno? thought about those ces dumps, but dunno if its worth it. Also will dumps for the 33 fit on the 34 later down the track?

  meshmesh said:
Funny you say that! Spoken to varous people with varying opinions :confused: I'm  

About to go the next stage....

Just picked up my turbos today :) HKS GT2530's, Waiting for my SARD 700cc injectors, 044 fuel pump, HKS EVC 4 & Z32 AFM's. Asked my mechanics about the dumps & they reckon stick with the stock as they saw no real gain on the dyno..still confused. As far as the cat, I've been told the gtr cat are pretty good flowing, & mines probably half blow out ;). So dunno? thought about those ces dumps, but dunno if its worth it. Also will dumps for the 33 fit on the 34 later down the track?

Great, sounds like you are about to put together a beuatiful package!! I like the sound of all the things you have listed above, they will make very strong and reliable power that can be used every day!!

Sorry, I was being a bit confusing about the exhaust....to clarify.....DUMP PIPES are the small items that bolt directly to the rear of the turbos and FRONT PIPES are the long headers running from the DUMPS to the cat.

I was running standard GTR Dump Pipes followed by the Trust Front Pipes. You are right in saying they may not really be necessary for your power level, the stock Dumps will do fine.

As for the cat, well normally when the R's get complied they remove the stock Jap cat and put a more compliant one on and they are crap!! You are best to get a custom one made. I had a larger Cat from a Commodore or something cut in half and had a 3" straight through pipe placed inside it, they then welded the Cat back together and it was mad!! Looked so neat, you could not tell it had been messed with....which is good for when the EPA or Cops stick there head under your car.

Definately look into your cat and doing something with it.

You must be hanging to get it on the road, will be a weapon!! I ran an 11.57@118mph in mine, so with the right driver, your car could do some fast times.

  HIRISK said:
Definately look into your cat and doing something with it.

You must be hanging to get it on the road, will be a weapon!! I ran an 11.57@118mph in mine, so with the right driver, your car could do some fast times.

Will do. Yes I'm hangin, cant wait! I'll be rapt if i could run a flat 13 :) After that I think my next option is FMIC & Water Injection. A mate who has a street 10sec falcon 250 Xflow, on straight gas swears by water injection, so we'll see for $400~ he reckons it's the best "unknown to many" insurance policy you'll spend.

PS: Sorry jezzzr to hijack your thread. Suppose this could also help you, with your little boy "now that you're a dad"

My Dyno is a full Shootout accredited Dyno that can have its figures backed up by Dyno Dynanics and we usually get higher readings when on other Dynos at Dyno comps etc.

Not every one wants to race their cars but i have a good history spanning more that 20 years so i'm not a key board warrior like others here, I do have Drag-Rally and Black track history with my own and customer cars with lap records and championships etc so i'm sick of insecure people needing to knock our exellent results with no claim to fame themselves so grow up.

Track times are the best way to show the potential of your car, wether it be circuit or drag. I ran an 11.57 in my 32 GTR and this in it self is enough for me. Dyno's are used for tuning and not as an advertising tool for power outputs, people seem to forget this.

Yeah I have the dyno graph Im just trying to figure out how to attach it.

Also - while I'm the proud father of my 34 Steve is the proud father os his Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer (and his kids too)- which is about as accurate as I have seen. So dont knock it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...