Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I need to know a suitable size cat back exhaust for an N/A r32 rb20. I've been told that 3" is way to big so i'm looking for something between 2" and 3".

The main reason im changing my exhaust is that really annoying rattle between 2-3 grand, and where the rattle goes crazy after 5 grand rpm, also wondering if a high flow cat and a different tip/cannon/muffler will get rid of this awesome sounding rattle?

Thanks, Arthur

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329732-suitable-exhaust-size-for-an-na-r32/
Share on other sites

have you checked your exhaust , sounds like your cat may have broken up?? 2 1/2" should be enough for a NA

Not entirely sure on how to check it :\. All i know that it sounds like absolute shit. How would i be able to check it? Would that include me having to take it out and weld it back together?

That raspy noise you hear is a very common noise heard on all NA skylines, it isnt a problem, its just gotta be replaced with a good exhaust system to get rid of it. Cheap generic cannons make it heaps worse so dont think about one of them!! And for size for an rb20de i would think 2.25 inch should be good.

That raspy noise you hear is a very common noise heard on all NA skylines, it isnt a problem, its just gotta be replaced with a good exhaust system to get rid of it. Cheap generic cannons make it heaps worse so dont think about one of them!! And for size for an rb20de i would think 2.25 inch should be good.

Yeah i found that out after a fait bit of the search button lol. Would replacing the cat to a new high flow cat and changing the piping all the way from the cat back to the muffler fix this? Just want to get this fixed already!

Yeah i found that out after a fait bit of the search button lol. Would replacing the cat to a new high flow cat and changing the piping all the way from the cat back to the muffler fix this? Just want to get this fixed already!

Yeah mate im sure it will fix it as long as its good quality, your better off going to a custom exhaust place and telling them you dont want the noise there and they will do it for you, thats exactly what i did and it was the best decision i made.

Yeah mate im sure it will fix it as long as its good quality, your better off going to a custom exhaust place and telling them you dont want the noise there and they will do it for you, thats exactly what i did and it was the best decision i made.

How much did it set you back? I went to 'Fast Fit' today and he quoted me that a high flow 2.25 cat, piping and a muffler would cost me 800 something..... I'm not too knowledgable about cars but im pretty sure hes ripping me off hardcore. But if i supplied the high flow cat myself and the muffler, he'd supply the piping and weld it on for $30.

How much did it set you back? I went to 'Fast Fit' today and he quoted me that a high flow 2.25 cat, piping and a muffler would cost me 800 something..... I'm not too knowledgable about cars but im pretty sure hes ripping me off hardcore. But if i supplied the high flow cat myself and the muffler, he'd supply the piping and weld it on for $30.

Depends on what brand/quality of parts hes using, 800 is a pretty reasonable price

Depends on what brand/quality of parts hes using, 800 is a pretty reasonable price

Yeah i guess thats true, just seems abit much for a cat and piping. If you dont mind me asking, whats the stock piping size of my n/a r32? Haven't measured it myself, but searching online is getting me nowhere :)

  • 4 weeks later...

My exhaust is in my signature, personally I love it, has that nice deep I6 rumble at idle, drones a little at low revs, but anything above 4k is perfect, good racey note and loud enough. Depends on what you want your car to sound like,each to their own. Listen to other peoples cars and ask what they have, and work from there, but 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" is enough for a NA 2.0l. Also, the horrible rattle around 2.5-4k is normal for NA skylines, something to do with the twin-cam head? Search, it's been covered before. You say it gets worse above 5k? Not so normal, does it do it all the time? Only at certain loads?

my mechanic told me 2 1/4 inch is perfect, any bigger your starting to lose power, own a na r34.

This is wrong technically I think. You won't be 'losing' power, you'll just be sacrificing a bit down low, but gain a little bit more up high.

This is wrong technically I think. You won't be 'losing' power, you'll just be sacrificing a bit down low, but gain a little bit more up high.

well actually technically it is right because you do start to lose power. the peak power it puts out may be the same or a bit higher than the smaller exhaust but the low down power will start to drop, which means you have lost power.

it really comes down to what sort of driving you do. if you do a lot of track days and want it to be a bit of a dyno warrior (well as much of a dyno warrior as a NA skyline can be.....) and don't mind a bit of police attention then go a nice big 2.75 or 3" system. just remember that it will start to become a bit of a slug in the lower rpm so you may want to use 2nd gear in the 50kmh zones if there are any hills, lol.

n/a needs backpressure

nuff sed

no it doesn't. the reason why NA cars need smaller diameter exhausts isn't because of a need for backpressure. this is a myth. the reason they need smaller tubing is all about exhaust gas velocity and the scavenging/syphoning effect that happens. backpressure is a byproduct of smaller tubing and is bad for both turbo and NA engines.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...