Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I need to know a suitable size cat back exhaust for an N/A r32 rb20. I've been told that 3" is way to big so i'm looking for something between 2" and 3".

The main reason im changing my exhaust is that really annoying rattle between 2-3 grand, and where the rattle goes crazy after 5 grand rpm, also wondering if a high flow cat and a different tip/cannon/muffler will get rid of this awesome sounding rattle?

Thanks, Arthur

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329732-suitable-exhaust-size-for-an-na-r32/
Share on other sites

have you checked your exhaust , sounds like your cat may have broken up?? 2 1/2" should be enough for a NA

Not entirely sure on how to check it :\. All i know that it sounds like absolute shit. How would i be able to check it? Would that include me having to take it out and weld it back together?

That raspy noise you hear is a very common noise heard on all NA skylines, it isnt a problem, its just gotta be replaced with a good exhaust system to get rid of it. Cheap generic cannons make it heaps worse so dont think about one of them!! And for size for an rb20de i would think 2.25 inch should be good.

That raspy noise you hear is a very common noise heard on all NA skylines, it isnt a problem, its just gotta be replaced with a good exhaust system to get rid of it. Cheap generic cannons make it heaps worse so dont think about one of them!! And for size for an rb20de i would think 2.25 inch should be good.

Yeah i found that out after a fait bit of the search button lol. Would replacing the cat to a new high flow cat and changing the piping all the way from the cat back to the muffler fix this? Just want to get this fixed already!

Yeah i found that out after a fait bit of the search button lol. Would replacing the cat to a new high flow cat and changing the piping all the way from the cat back to the muffler fix this? Just want to get this fixed already!

Yeah mate im sure it will fix it as long as its good quality, your better off going to a custom exhaust place and telling them you dont want the noise there and they will do it for you, thats exactly what i did and it was the best decision i made.

Yeah mate im sure it will fix it as long as its good quality, your better off going to a custom exhaust place and telling them you dont want the noise there and they will do it for you, thats exactly what i did and it was the best decision i made.

How much did it set you back? I went to 'Fast Fit' today and he quoted me that a high flow 2.25 cat, piping and a muffler would cost me 800 something..... I'm not too knowledgable about cars but im pretty sure hes ripping me off hardcore. But if i supplied the high flow cat myself and the muffler, he'd supply the piping and weld it on for $30.

How much did it set you back? I went to 'Fast Fit' today and he quoted me that a high flow 2.25 cat, piping and a muffler would cost me 800 something..... I'm not too knowledgable about cars but im pretty sure hes ripping me off hardcore. But if i supplied the high flow cat myself and the muffler, he'd supply the piping and weld it on for $30.

Depends on what brand/quality of parts hes using, 800 is a pretty reasonable price

Depends on what brand/quality of parts hes using, 800 is a pretty reasonable price

Yeah i guess thats true, just seems abit much for a cat and piping. If you dont mind me asking, whats the stock piping size of my n/a r32? Haven't measured it myself, but searching online is getting me nowhere :)

  • 4 weeks later...

My exhaust is in my signature, personally I love it, has that nice deep I6 rumble at idle, drones a little at low revs, but anything above 4k is perfect, good racey note and loud enough. Depends on what you want your car to sound like,each to their own. Listen to other peoples cars and ask what they have, and work from there, but 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" is enough for a NA 2.0l. Also, the horrible rattle around 2.5-4k is normal for NA skylines, something to do with the twin-cam head? Search, it's been covered before. You say it gets worse above 5k? Not so normal, does it do it all the time? Only at certain loads?

my mechanic told me 2 1/4 inch is perfect, any bigger your starting to lose power, own a na r34.

This is wrong technically I think. You won't be 'losing' power, you'll just be sacrificing a bit down low, but gain a little bit more up high.

This is wrong technically I think. You won't be 'losing' power, you'll just be sacrificing a bit down low, but gain a little bit more up high.

well actually technically it is right because you do start to lose power. the peak power it puts out may be the same or a bit higher than the smaller exhaust but the low down power will start to drop, which means you have lost power.

it really comes down to what sort of driving you do. if you do a lot of track days and want it to be a bit of a dyno warrior (well as much of a dyno warrior as a NA skyline can be.....) and don't mind a bit of police attention then go a nice big 2.75 or 3" system. just remember that it will start to become a bit of a slug in the lower rpm so you may want to use 2nd gear in the 50kmh zones if there are any hills, lol.

n/a needs backpressure

nuff sed

no it doesn't. the reason why NA cars need smaller diameter exhausts isn't because of a need for backpressure. this is a myth. the reason they need smaller tubing is all about exhaust gas velocity and the scavenging/syphoning effect that happens. backpressure is a byproduct of smaller tubing and is bad for both turbo and NA engines.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...