Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just thought I'd post this up since it may be of concern to some of you.

I have always had fluctuating oil pressure issues with my R32 GTS-T but when the engine recently spun a bearing and the engine was pulled down, I found that 3 of the 5 or 6 countersunk screws were not only lose but wound out up to 2-2.5 threads. Keeping in mind that these screws hold the back cover to the pump and thus maintain a pressurised area. No wonder I spun a bearing :)

Anyway, from all this I would suggest that if you're experiencing oil pressure fluctions you might want to get it checked out properly and not just assume it's the pressure sender or gauge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32981-oil-pressure-problems-r32/
Share on other sites

Exactly. Constant pressure but rises and falls. Most of the time with my car I had a rather average reading on the gauge and at the lights it would fall off to zero but the pressure light wouln'dt come on so it seemed OK ( keep in mind that I had the oil pressure checked properly on an independant gauge for peace of mind ).

ScarifieR,

I wouldn't say that it's an "EASY" job but it's not the worst job in the world.

The pump is located at the front of the engine. It's driven by the crank shaft and is located right behind the harmonic balancer.

I'd say your first line of action if you're sus about your oil pressure, is to get it checked properly by a mechanic.

Its a pain in the arse to get to. It sits on top of the sump at the fron of the motor. Then in front of that is the camshaft timing pulley, which sit on a locating pin in the crank. Then the belt pulleys, or as FAT32 says the "harmonic balancer" which is also located with a pin. Both items on this pin must be removed with a "pulley puller" :P

I guess it is a pretty sh!t job but I've worked on some of the worst cars ever built so in my opinion, working on most everything to do with the RB nissans ( import skylines in general )is pretty kind to the mechanic.

Bl4cK32, spend a couple of years working on cars like Citroen, Renult, Triumph, Jaguar, MG and some of the old Ferrari's, Lambohgini's, and Maseratti's and you'll smile at your nissan every time you work on it !! I DO, no matter how ugly the job is :P

BTW, my hands are not small but I learned how to get my hands into some very tight places.

omg i sometimes get the symptoms u talked about fat32.

kinda scary coz it sounds like a big job to fix.

i've noticed it does it less when using different oils, but on the last change, using motul turbolight 10w40 technosynthase, i experiened quite a few times when oil pressure would just drop to 0 without warning light. it was always more the case of dropping oil pressures, never increasing. hmmm worried.

Coco69,

I'd get it checked out if I were you.

If the pressure's no good do something about pretty quick. If you think the bill to get a new oil pump fitted is expensive, try a full engine rebuild :( Ouch !!

  • 4 weeks later...

I have an R32 GTS4 and my oil pump is leaking. I want to take it off a replace the gasket and seal inside the pump - but removing my sump is not an option - with the transaxle being part of the sump I need to lift the engine rather than drop the sump. Should I be able to get the pump off without removing the sump?

bah

u know what ya problems are

the oils your using

i used a 5-40 shell helix ultra fully synth

and my pressure went to 0

i use now a 10-40 semi synmth mix

or the 7.5-30 nissan mix

all sit around the same pressure

currently using 10-40 valvoline VR4 semi synth

used mobil1 synth S and penzzoil GT semi synth

all had the same results

armbrusb ,

on 4wd 's you have to remove the engine to remove the oil pump , its the easiest way . its doable on the car but by the time you stuff around and drop the sump say 50 mm ( u have to lift the engine a little ) you may as well take the engine out then you can do the big end bearings at the same time . the oil pump doesnt have a gasket you use a liquid gasket , when you pull the oil pump apart to inspect use locktite on the bolts .

  • 1 month later...

what bearings are u talking about ? big conrod bearings u can do on a normal 2wd car but not the mains as u have to take the crank out . on skyline 4wds u cant take the sump off unless u take the engine out , so its no to your question .

why do you want to do bearings ? usualy if you are going to do bearings you do a complete engine rebuild . even if i was going to change bearings i'll take the crank out and grind it then use undersise bearings because if the bearings picked up the crank will not be 100% either , at least take it out and measure it .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
×
×
  • Create New...