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mythbusters ahoy!

where

HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi

BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi

be sure to note, that ECR33 has dual stage boost, that is the std solenoid will bleed an additional 2psi above 4500rpm

so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for AUTO R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 7psi minimum boost

so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for MANUAL R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 9psi minimum boost

if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let

You will find, that when they're on a running car with exhaust gas flowing, they will open at a lower pressure. Why? The exhaust gas is also exerting force onto the diaphragm through the actual gate... :(

The R33 connected direct to the actuator should not run over 5PSi.

When the solenoid activates it bleeds off some air, meaning the pressure the actuator is seeing, is lower then what is really there.

IE, if it's really at 7PSi, the actuator is only seeing 5PSi still... :( If you give it full pressure, it'll open further, and reduce pressure until it sits back at 5PSi... :(

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What rpm is it making 5psi at? (any gear, doesn't really matter in this instance)

almost exactly 4500, basically it hits 5psi pretty quick and sticks to it untill 4500, then starts to creep to 7psi slowly, and it feels really rough and flat, (what i think its r&r) im not 100% if it gets to 7psi and stays there as i always back off as it starts to get to 7psi as it feels too rough to drive

i made this pic with my leet photoshop skills, hopefuly it shows whats happening a bit clearer

from my memory when my GTST was stock

2nd gear below 4500rpm was 5psi as it should be

and when you went past 4500rpm it would run to 7psi and remain static at 7psi

there was no flat spot, not wobbly issue etc and it ran great

from my memory when my GTST was stock

2nd gear below 4500rpm was 5psi as it should be

and when you went past 4500rpm it would run to 7psi and remain static at 7psi

there was no flat spot, not wobbly issue etc and it ran great

yep that sounds correct while using the boost solonoid, but mine isnt hooked up

You didn't really answer my question.. when does it first get to 5psi?? stock turbo should be seeing it about 2000rpm ish..

yea i think its around 2.5k rpm, it boosts up to 5psi normal

Ok so it's not a highflow so it really can't be R&R.

Sounds more like spark breaking down, what plugs? at what gap? when were they last changed? tried different coils? different coil harness?

Ok so it's not a highflow so it really can't be R&R.

Sounds more like spark breaking down, what plugs? at what gap? when were they last changed? tried different coils? different coil harness?

hmm, didnt think of that, the plugs are iridium's, not sure what gap, i only had a quick look to check the state of them, my coils are strange now than u mention it, they have this orange silicon on the back of them, not neatly done (well, not neat enough to come from factory) so someone has played with them, what could be the story here?

hmm, didnt think of that, the plugs are iridium's, not sure what gap, i only had a quick look to check the state of them, my coils are strange now than u mention it, they have this orange silicon on the back of them, not neatly done (well, not neat enough to come from factory) so someone has played with them, what could be the story here?

This is often a 'fix' for stopping old coils that are damaged/split from arcing out against the head. (Because the silicon acts an insulator). Another method people use is to tape them up.

See: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...em-t119403.html

Anyways - it's a good indicator that your coil packs have had issues in the past and someone has bandaided it. Perhaps follow the above thread, tape up your coil packs and if the issue goes away - there's your culprit. Either way, it's probably a good sign for you to replace them with splitfires or yellowjackets.

I'll put $10 on the fact that the coilpacks are fubar'd.

Also, copper plugs are just fine and a lot cheaper than iridiums. BCP6ES gapped at 0.8mm, with some new coils and you'll be laughing :(

ok guys, will inspect the coilpacks to see what the g.o. is, do i have to get plugs gapped at .8? isnt stock 1.1? any benafits of .8 apart from creating a weaker spark? (which isnt a benafit)

Gapping to 0.8mm makes it harder for the charged air to blow the spark out at higher boost levels. If you have a really good ignition system you can leave them at 1.1

ahhh ok cool, cheers

ok guys, will inspect the coilpacks to see what the g.o. is, do i have to get plugs gapped at .8? isnt stock 1.1? any benafits of .8 apart from creating a weaker spark? (which isnt a benafit)

When you replace coils, on stock boost run a 1.1mm gap.

ok guys, will inspect the coilpacks to see what the g.o. is, do i have to get plugs gapped at .8? isnt stock 1.1? any benafits of .8 apart from creating a weaker spark? (which isnt a benafit)

the options are 1.1mm and 0.8mm. if you get bkr6es they are 0.8mm, and bkr6es-11 are the same plug gapped to 1.1mm.

yeah the spark crosses the gap easier when it's smaller, so the high turbulence in the cylinder can't "blow" it out. it's the usual temporary fix for misfire

i have a similar problem except my actuator is untouched except for the high boost mod which is on a switch.

dont mean the thread jack it just sounds pretty much the same as my issue.

car has been running fine for 1.5 years since i owned it but since saturday it only boosts to 5-6 psi instead of 8-9. i havent changed or touched anything....

it otherwise drives normal :S

pod filter, split dump, cat back exhaust, safc neo.

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