Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people, just picked up a 1997 r33 gts-t m-spec with rb25det. im fairly new to world of imports, this is the first one ive owned. i too have the famous crunch from 1st to 2nd.

just wondering where i can get my hands on some redline shockproof? also does it come in different grades? if so, what grade is recommended for those gearboxes? also if anyone knows how much oil they hold would be much appreciated.

also, the car is pretty well standard engine wise, apart from splitfire coils, walbro fuel pump, k&n panel filter and 3 inch catback exhaust. the factory dual stage boost solenoid has been disconnected and a boost tee fitted up running a constant 9psi. is there anything i can do to give it a bit more punch without sacrificing fuel economy? winding up the boost is obviously an easy fix for grunt, but not for fuel. it just sounds so held back. just wondering if theres things i can do without spending mega bucks.

any comments would be a great help. cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330180-r33-gts-t-rb25-gearbox/
Share on other sites

hey people, just picked up a 1997 r33 gts-t m-spec with rb25det. im fairly new to world of imports, this is the first one ive owned. i too have the famous crunch from 1st to 2nd.

just wondering where i can get my hands on some redline shockproof? also does it come in different grades? if so, what grade is recommended for those gearboxes? also if anyone knows how much oil they hold would be much appreciated.

also, the car is pretty well standard engine wise, apart from splitfire coils, walbro fuel pump, k&n panel filter and 3 inch catback exhaust. the factory dual stage boost solenoid has been disconnected and a boost tee fitted up running a constant 9psi. is there anything i can do to give it a bit more punch without sacrificing fuel economy? winding up the boost is obviously an easy fix for grunt, but not for fuel. it just sounds so held back. just wondering if theres things i can do without spending mega bucks.

any comments would be a great help. cheers.

Get a 3in front pipe with split dump. Wind the boost up a little more unless you get R&R (do a search) and then knock it back until it comes right. Swap the R33 smic for an R34 one (straight swap - should be able to pick one up for under $100)
rb25det takes about 3.5 litres (or until it starts coming out of the fill hole quicker than you can pump it in)

Any one else had their 25 box throwing oil out of the breather?

also running redline lite weight shock proof

Noticed mine was doing this after a drift day, box was not over filled.

should i put a small breather tank, high in the engine bay for the gear box?

Any one else had their 25 box throwing oil out of the breather?

also running redline lite weight shock proof

Noticed mine was doing this after a drift day, box was not over filled.

should i put a small breather tank, high in the engine bay for the gear box?

Elite Racing on here has said there was a bad batch of shockproof that has been spitting the fluid out the breathers

post from another site...

"we recommend using redline super lightweight in nissan boxes, it is equivalent to say vmx80 castrol which is a recommended oil for factory boxes. the lightweight shockproof is a bit too heavy and you will feel shift harshness until warm.however the super lightweight shockproof is far superior to any oil we have tested and used. the lightweight oil is a better oil in relation to load carrying capacity but can annoy people on cold shifts thats all. the redline product is great all round. "

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=293723 for the rest of the story...

.. No oil will magically fix your gearbox, when its old it old, kinda like arthritis... :)

  • 2 years later...

Now im bumping this thread a bit.

I have the same problem as murph on my Rb25det

my gearbox throws up oil from the breather, i have also redline's shockproof lighweigt oil.

it startet last year and it keept throw up even when i changed the oil so it maybe was a bad batch.

and for this year i bought a second gearbox and the redline oil, keeps throwing up oil from the breather

What is the problem?? Is it the oil,? it must be becaus the guy i bought the second gearbox from had no leaks.

Regards / Anders

The new shockproof seems to climb out of breathers, afew people have reported this. I think ERD mentioned it and did everything Redline recommended by extending the breathers etc but still didn't help.

  • 1 year later...

Hi guys, digging up an old thread, I may have a similar problem.

I had a look under the car after a long country drive to find a fair bit of blue gearbox oil at the rear of the gearbox and on the crossmember. The car's also recently been on the dyno so it may be from that too. It's an R34 GTT with R34 RB25DET gearbox and Redline Lightweight Shockproof.

I couldn't find a clear source where the oil may be coming out, whereabouts is the breather on these boxes?

How do I check how much oil is left in the box? Can I just undo the driver side 1/2" plug on a level surface?

Its hard to say if it will fix it when noone knows what is actually causing the noise. If the box is wrecked nothing will fix it. I have a noise in 5th and 3rd and not even a gearbox rebuilt fixed it. Must be a problem with the gears themselves but it's just a noise and not a very loud one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...