Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people, just picked up a 1997 r33 gts-t m-spec with rb25det. im fairly new to world of imports, this is the first one ive owned. i too have the famous crunch from 1st to 2nd.

just wondering where i can get my hands on some redline shockproof? also does it come in different grades? if so, what grade is recommended for those gearboxes? also if anyone knows how much oil they hold would be much appreciated.

also, the car is pretty well standard engine wise, apart from splitfire coils, walbro fuel pump, k&n panel filter and 3 inch catback exhaust. the factory dual stage boost solenoid has been disconnected and a boost tee fitted up running a constant 9psi. is there anything i can do to give it a bit more punch without sacrificing fuel economy? winding up the boost is obviously an easy fix for grunt, but not for fuel. it just sounds so held back. just wondering if theres things i can do without spending mega bucks.

any comments would be a great help. cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330180-r33-gts-t-rb25-gearbox/
Share on other sites

hey people, just picked up a 1997 r33 gts-t m-spec with rb25det. im fairly new to world of imports, this is the first one ive owned. i too have the famous crunch from 1st to 2nd.

just wondering where i can get my hands on some redline shockproof? also does it come in different grades? if so, what grade is recommended for those gearboxes? also if anyone knows how much oil they hold would be much appreciated.

also, the car is pretty well standard engine wise, apart from splitfire coils, walbro fuel pump, k&n panel filter and 3 inch catback exhaust. the factory dual stage boost solenoid has been disconnected and a boost tee fitted up running a constant 9psi. is there anything i can do to give it a bit more punch without sacrificing fuel economy? winding up the boost is obviously an easy fix for grunt, but not for fuel. it just sounds so held back. just wondering if theres things i can do without spending mega bucks.

any comments would be a great help. cheers.

Get a 3in front pipe with split dump. Wind the boost up a little more unless you get R&R (do a search) and then knock it back until it comes right. Swap the R33 smic for an R34 one (straight swap - should be able to pick one up for under $100)
rb25det takes about 3.5 litres (or until it starts coming out of the fill hole quicker than you can pump it in)

Any one else had their 25 box throwing oil out of the breather?

also running redline lite weight shock proof

Noticed mine was doing this after a drift day, box was not over filled.

should i put a small breather tank, high in the engine bay for the gear box?

Any one else had their 25 box throwing oil out of the breather?

also running redline lite weight shock proof

Noticed mine was doing this after a drift day, box was not over filled.

should i put a small breather tank, high in the engine bay for the gear box?

Elite Racing on here has said there was a bad batch of shockproof that has been spitting the fluid out the breathers

post from another site...

"we recommend using redline super lightweight in nissan boxes, it is equivalent to say vmx80 castrol which is a recommended oil for factory boxes. the lightweight shockproof is a bit too heavy and you will feel shift harshness until warm.however the super lightweight shockproof is far superior to any oil we have tested and used. the lightweight oil is a better oil in relation to load carrying capacity but can annoy people on cold shifts thats all. the redline product is great all round. "

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=293723 for the rest of the story...

.. No oil will magically fix your gearbox, when its old it old, kinda like arthritis... :)

  • 2 years later...

Now im bumping this thread a bit.

I have the same problem as murph on my Rb25det

my gearbox throws up oil from the breather, i have also redline's shockproof lighweigt oil.

it startet last year and it keept throw up even when i changed the oil so it maybe was a bad batch.

and for this year i bought a second gearbox and the redline oil, keeps throwing up oil from the breather

What is the problem?? Is it the oil,? it must be becaus the guy i bought the second gearbox from had no leaks.

Regards / Anders

The new shockproof seems to climb out of breathers, afew people have reported this. I think ERD mentioned it and did everything Redline recommended by extending the breathers etc but still didn't help.

  • 1 year later...

Hi guys, digging up an old thread, I may have a similar problem.

I had a look under the car after a long country drive to find a fair bit of blue gearbox oil at the rear of the gearbox and on the crossmember. The car's also recently been on the dyno so it may be from that too. It's an R34 GTT with R34 RB25DET gearbox and Redline Lightweight Shockproof.

I couldn't find a clear source where the oil may be coming out, whereabouts is the breather on these boxes?

How do I check how much oil is left in the box? Can I just undo the driver side 1/2" plug on a level surface?

Its hard to say if it will fix it when noone knows what is actually causing the noise. If the box is wrecked nothing will fix it. I have a noise in 5th and 3rd and not even a gearbox rebuilt fixed it. Must be a problem with the gears themselves but it's just a noise and not a very loud one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does it make a difference in your turbo having a shorter life if you have a cat converter as it causes that back pressure versus less/no back pressure with a decat? (Not sure if this is accurate) Also slightly different question if you went from a oem cat to a decat or vice versa will it require a tune? I heard if you change the dump pipe onwards it requires a tune?
    • No. Have only gotten as far as contemplating the task of having to put in the required fairly heavy wiring and fusing to run it (along with the big alternator), and preferring not to. But otherwise, it would be nice to have a little extra freedom as to exactly where the compressor is located and free up some space around the exhaust side of the engine.
    • Following from this in a related by not closely-related sense... Because I was buying a bunch of other GKTech stuff, I got some rear subframe collars. The history that leads up to this is: 25+ years ago the car arrived into the country with stock subframe bushes. At some point shortly thereafter I added Whiteline pineapple rings, set up neutral, and it improved the rear end behaviour. Well, it is my vague memory that I was happier with it with them in. Less axle tramp on launches, generally better, etc etc. ~2012 it got a new non-HICAS subframe with new stock bushes. No pineapple rings. I reckon that ever since then I've been dissatisfied with the axle tramp. Recently I've been f**king around a lot with all aspects of the suspension. One contemplation has been to relocate the rear lower control arm front mount points (and do the other things needed to make that work) to improve longitudinal rear grip by getting rid of some of the stupid anti-squat that Nissan ladled into the R32. But.... before doing that I thought I'd put some collars in. And.... The collars are good. The rear sounds a little bit different, but there has been no significant increase in NVH coming up into the body. In terms of rear behaviour - expansion joints on long sweeping elevated freeway ramps that would sometimes cause the rear to jiggle around a bit, no longer seem to do so. It appears that jamming chunks of metal into the gaps in the rubber so they can't move much is a really good thing. And the launch behaviour and general forward traction situation seems to be greatly improved too. It's impossible to be really sure, because the tyres are completely shagged - they are freakishly willing to let go right now. But as an A-B test with the same tyres it certainly seems to grip up a lot better. Highly recommended to anyone who still has stock bushes.
    • Bit off topic maybe but has anyone had a crack at one of those aftermarket electric compressors ? Bit of a search came up with one put out by Speedy Air Spares. Looks interesting and looks as if you'd have to run a big arse alternator. Found this out after the fact as my air con compressor packed it in and soon after my alternator ! !
    • Yes. Needs new ports. Usually just achieved by screwing an adapter onto them. Be aware that any AC compressor that hasn't been used in a long time will very likely have dried out seals and will not hold gas. Oh, and obviously you will require a new receiver-dryer also.
×
×
  • Create New...