Diy: Hel Braided Brake Line Install

[PM-R33]

They are definetely ADR approved, it has allready been covered numerous times in the group buy thread, thanks.

Edited August 11, 2010 by PM-R33

[Hanaldo]

Installed mine tonight, very easy install.

Just a couple of questions though as now I'm not sure how the pedal is meant to feel. Is it meant to be quite hard? How responsive is the braking?

Just asking because I took it for a quick drive (it's raining so couldn't test them out too thoroughly) and it sort of feels like when I'm full on the brakes it isn't stopping very fast. But I'm not sure if that is because the braided lines make it feel like I'm at the end of the pedal when I'm not... If you get that? I didn't want to slam them on in this weather, but I'm a bit worried there might still be some air in the lines somewhere.

[kb-r33]

good job man!

[PM-R33]

Installed mine tonight, very easy install.

Just a couple of questions though as now I'm not sure how the pedal is meant to feel. Is it meant to be quite hard? How responsive is the braking?

Just asking because I took it for a quick drive (it's raining so couldn't test them out too thoroughly) and it sort of feels like when I'm full on the brakes it isn't stopping very fast. But I'm not sure if that is because the braided lines make it feel like I'm at the end of the pedal when I'm not... If you get that? I didn't want to slam them on in this weather, but I'm a bit worried there might still be some air in the lines somewhere.

I'd recommend bleeding everything again and then taking it for a drive in the dry and seeing how you go. Like I said before mine felt weird due to having air trapped somewhere.

Honestly it shouldn't feel to much different unless the factory lines were on their way out.

[Hanaldo]

Dammit Ok well I'll bleed them again then. It definitely feels different, but it's much harder than usual, not softer like I would expect if there was air in the lines.

[J_Red33]

Thanks for the tutorial.

I'm yet to actually fit mine yet, but I have a couple of suggestions when doing this from having previously removed my calipers.

Rather than just undoing a line & having brake fluid spew out everywhere, I'd suggest draining each corner from the calipers bleed nipple first into a bucket with some clear tubing to prevent this.

I'd then undo the brake line from the caliper end & point it into a bucket to drain any remaining fluid. Also have the reservoir cap removed when doing this.

This should ensure a lot less mess & risk of corrosion/paint stripping.

Also the best thing to help improve the firmness of the brakes isn't in fact the hoses. Get yourself a master cylinder stopper to prevent it flexing when you push the brake pedal. They flex a lot.

Open your bonnet & watch the cylinder move as you press the brake pedal

I fitted a Cusco brand stopper to my 33 & it was worth every cent, got to be careful with traffic following behind sometimes....

With the braided lines my brakes will be hard as a rock

[PM-R33]

Yeah that would be a cleaner way of doint it

You are correct about the master cylinder stopper and it is something I might get one day. The thing with most R33's I have found however is the softness in the pedal is actually prior to the master cylinder moving what so ever. It seems to be the travel between the piston moving inside the brake booster into the master cylinder. Not sure if 100% that is where the "slack" seems to come from, but every R33 i've driven they seem to have 5cm or so of play where the pedal hasn't engaged the brakes even the slightest. My friends brakes are so much softer than mine with the pedal travel being half way down before you feel the brakes engage!

Edited August 23, 2010 by PM-R33

[typevu]

NOTE: One of my bolts was seized in the calliper and extremely difficult to remove and I ended up rounding the nut off as seen in the photo, do not do this. I suggest using a special spanner as seen below instead of a normal open ended spanner to get a bit more grip on bolts and not do what i did... I eventually got the bolt out though.

His not kidding guys! Do yourself a favour by buying a set of these: http://sidchrome.com.au/product/7473/5-pie...nut-spanner-set

Save yourself the pain, hassle, time and more money having to get rounded nuts off like I'm doing now instead of buying a set of the above in the first place!

[Pezhead]

So I did my lines today.

Ran into a problem on the 33 GTR lines because the kit comes with one line that is female on both ends and then one that is male/female.

So I ended up only using one of the lines and retaining the hard male/male line that goes in front of the suspension arm to the brake caliper. I had to fabricate my own 90 degree mounts so that it didn't just "dangle".

So, I'm obviously wondering - have I done it wrong? I can't see any way the two lines that were supplied could be used given the fittings they have.

[PM-R33]

Your install seems correct.

I'm just a bit confused by what you mean about the two lines being used. Did your kit come with more than 4 lines? (2 front, 2 rear)

The photo of the two brake lines in the plastic packaging, that is one front and one rear correct?

[Pezhead]

Ah, I thought the kit was just the fronts, didn't really was full front and rear. Bonus!

Sorry, I must be the only Asian Blonde on the planet.

[PM-R33]

Hahahaha all good man, you had me so confused!

Yep the fronts are the way you have them and than the other small lines are the rears and they will be identical to the way I installed my rear.

[89CAL]

Finally put mine in. Pretty easy to do and look great

Why do they include copper washers in the R33 GTST kit but? :S

[PM-R33]

No idea lol.

[toddlls]

awesome write up- good man

[SXY_33]

great DIY, probably one of the easiest mods ive done. just be careful with the nuts they seem fairly sort.

[simpletool]

His not kidding guys! Do yourself a favour by buying a set of these: http://sidchrome.com.au/product/7473/5-pie...nut-spanner-set

Save yourself the pain, hassle, time and more money having to get rounded nuts off like I'm doing now instead of buying a set of the above in the first place!

Agree that a good set of flare nut spanners is ideal, and I am looking for a set. Pity is that most people don't rate the Sidchrome set as GOOD. A common reported problem is they can flex out (expand) around the nut as the tool isn't strong enough when the nut is tight. This is compounded by the soft (aluminium?) material the nuts are made from. The more expensive flare nut spanners are better as they have a much deeper socket which means more steel material to stop it flexing/expanding. ie. snap-on.

[Messiah]

good write up.

A few additional things i'd add.

First, i cannot stress enough how good the advice is about presoaking in wd40.. and give it PLENTY of time.

I gave it a spray and cracked on after 2 mins or so and rounded a nut. I sprayed the other side liberally while i figured out what to do about the first, then came back 30+ mins later once i had sorted out the buggered up one.

This one came off with barely any effort.

As rounding is a risk... add two pairs of vice grips to the tool collection for this job, if you round these nuts they're almos tonf of the only things that will fix it.

And i agree about the sidchrome spanners... i bought a set as recommended... and still rounded a nut... not sure if it was the spanners, or my impatience, but dont take the wd40ing or the spanners as a sure thing.

Oh and advice from a mech mate of mine... he recommended against using thread sealant as the kit should seal fine without it and the sealant can contaminate the brake fluid....

Not sure how valid it is... i followed it but i'm open to others knowledge.

[PM-R33]

Yes very easy to round them

I looked into the sealant thing prior to doing them as I was a bit curious whether to use some or not.

From my understanding you should only use the sealant going into the caliper (not on the other side going into the hard line) however it MUST be a liquid/gel type sealant and not thread tape. Since you are bleeding the brakes afterwards, any slight residue should come through during bleeding if you did happen to put to much on.

[mattis96]

super cheap sells the flare nut spanners from 10mm to 17mm in a set for $20.