Diy: Hel Braided Brake Line Install

[jiffo]

For those who don't have access to Snap-On gear, use an El-cheapo flare nut spanner with vise grips around the spanner to stop it expanding and thus slipping over the castellations.

A fault often overlooked with old brake hoses is that they shrink internally with age.

So they're OK when applying the brakes but ever so slow to return the fluid to the master cylinder, causing dragging brakes.

[warps]

Whether or not you're using the flare nut spanners, it's always good to crack the fitting by lightly hitting the spanner with a hammer to loosen the nut. The impact force is usually enough to crack the fitting well before you start rounding the nut, as opposed to a constant load which won't free the threads. This has worked for me even on 35 year old datsuns and rotary mazdas, and even old british cars, so it does work.

As for pedal feel, you will get slightly less pedal movement under heavy braking, but don't expect major difference in feel. If the pedal feels very different after fitting braided lines, then there is probably something wrong. specially if the pedal actually feels softer after you've finished.

[Messiah]

... and even old british cars, so it does work...

No dice... even the tires on old british cars leak oil, so EVERY nut on something like and old triumph can be considered self lubricating.

Another note of safety... PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT YOUR DOING WHEN SCREWING THE LINE INTO THE BACK OF THE CALIPER!!!!

i was educating the little brother in law about car maintenance while screwing it in... the lines are hard.. the calipers are soft... it went in at an angle and as some of you might have noticed if you troll the wtb thread... i'm not purchasing a new set of rear calipers.

[warps]

No dice... even the tires on old british cars leak oil, so EVERY nut on something like and old triumph can be considered self lubricating.

Haha Touché

[Messiah]

Just because i really enjoy sharing how retarded i can be at times.

This is what happens when you dont pay attention to what your doing. Soft alloy calipers + nice hard brake lines + me == fail!

Talented arent i.

Replaced now though and alls well.

[gotRICE?]

^ You are talented!

We all have special talents. Mine being breaking a "breaker bar" (lol) but trying to undo the welded side of an engine mount nut

I lol'd.

Edit: oops, reason i replied,

Thanks for the writeup! I have my set sitting here waiting to go in with some new pads Might as well write back with my findings too.

Edited April 12, 2011 by gotRICE?

[Tony de Wonderful]

The front lines failed a UK MOT on my car for not being secure, even though I used the OEM bracket and clip thingy.

[Tony de Wonderful]

Yes very easy to round them

I looked into the sealant thing prior to doing them as I was a bit curious whether to use some or not.

From my understanding you should only use the sealant going into the caliper (not on the other side going into the hard line) however it MUST be a liquid/gel type sealant and not thread tape. Since you are bleeding the brakes afterwards, any slight residue should come through during bleeding if you did happen to put to much on.

In theory the threads don't 'see' pressure since the sealing is done by the two thingies which mate together (not sure what they called) - Know what I mean?

[bluejeans]

nice diy!

got my car in the shop at the moment and have some of these going on also - pretty much doing brake pads / lines / rotors / shims etc - so looking forward to see how it all turns out

[gotRICE?]

So installed mine. Piece of piss. Did it all from memory of this thread.

Not quite sure if its just that you Aussies are Animals or what , but the nuts holding the lines into the caliper and into the hardline against the body were a sinch to undo lol. I didnt even touch the car with any penetrator. Stuck a regular spanner on it and tapped it with a rubber mallet. Undid like a normal bolt

Only think i noticed that i was to start with, a little weary about was that as you can see in this picture:

http://www.skylinesa...ttach_id=297489

Where the line exits the caliper, the arc it makes to head off to the bracket is quite close to the swaybar, and at full lock it does come into contact with it. But i figured, so long as you inspect them every time you have the car on the hoist or when you get your cars inspected for roadworthyness or whatever you dudes call it over there, it should be fine. Im just more cautious about having full lock. I get guard rub anyway so am already gentle with lock.

Very happy with them though

EDIT: Lol i just noticed you have the exact same shocks as me too. I could claim that as my car and noone would be the wiser haha.

Edited April 18, 2011 by gotRICE?

[PM-R33]

I think you mean the castor rod, not the swaybar. (the swaybar is the silver one in the picture).

On full lock mine doesn't touch, I checked that when installing. I know in that picture from that angle it kind of looks close but there is actually a bit of room.

If yours does touch that leads me to think that perhaps it is due to your car being slightly lower than my car? Perhaps if it was slightly raised it wouldn't?

Not sure but I suppose it does make sense given that the suspension geometry tucks inwards (negative camber) and would bring the caliper closer to the castor rod.

[gotRICE?]

I think you mean the castor rod, not the swaybar. (the swaybar is the silver one in the picture).

On full lock mine doesn't touch, I checked that when installing. I know in that picture from that angle it kind of looks close but there is actually a bit of room.

If yours does touch that leads me to think that perhaps it is due to your car being slightly lower than my car? Perhaps if it was slightly raised it wouldn't?

Not sure but I suppose it does make sense given that the suspension geometry tucks inwards (negative camber) and would bring the caliper closer to the castor rod.

Yes sorry your correct

lower could be why. I havnt been under the car since it was done, but now i think about it, with the suspension drooping like it was and going lock to lock isnt going to be the same as when the cars sitting on its wheels. Ill have a poke around next time its on a hoist.

One thing i have noticed that i like is the feel of them. Braking as normal feels the same, but progressively leaning on them harder theres a huge difference. A much nicer solid feel when you apply some weight to them. Very happy!

[Tweaky]

What year did the R33's come out with the ABS or what model ? Mines is a series 1 , 1994 model were they fitted with ABS ?

[PM-R33]

As far as I am aware it was a factory option so any year can have it. Just pop the bonnet and have a look if you have a big ABS unit in the top right hand corner with heaps of hard lines going in and out of it.

[simpletool]

The KC tools flare nut spanner are STUPIDLY cheap from VEK Tools and have a nice thick head on them. I paid $20 for both a 10/12mm and 13/14mm spanners here in Sydney.

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

fook, rounded one of mine after buying a flare nut spanner and hitting it with wd40 for 1hr.. what now?

i ended up fitting my endless master cylinder stopper, noticeable difference

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

just having a problem with install on the front, where the hose meets existing hard line, once tightened, there is still play up and down the line, as in the hard line flare isnt flush against the nut

anyone else run into this?

[gotRICE?]

Hmm, Is that a GTR?

Cos im pretty sure that on both the front and the rear of mine (R33 GTSt) the line went into the caliper itself.

That, and the front hose on mine was FAR longer than that. But the rears were that short.

[PM-R33]

GTR lines are different on the front due to the front-shafts. They have to retain the hard line that goes over them.

Not sure why it won't tighten. Both sides are like that?

[beemae30]

Could be incorrect flare style. If you can still move the hard line when it's tight then the to flare faces aren't mating. Check that the correct flare has been used to make the hose against the hard line flare. Otherwise it could be that your hard pipe flare is fingered.