Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i was cruising at around 45km/h in a 80 zone due to being stuck behind a learner driver, outside the roads are very wet due to a downpour. I switch lanes and start going straight and floor my car to get past (in a hurry to get home), and anyway i am going straight and suddenly at 65kmh my car changes into 2nd gear and the rear end slips out and i began acqua planning, so i breaked hard and then corrected the steering wheel the opposite way, and slowed down to a stop. the car literally went like a rubber band sideways. i suspect there to be something wrong with the wheel alighnment, i was going dead straight

i am incredibly rattled up :S.

plz dont label me a hoon i am sure u all wud of got a bit frustrated being stuck behind a learner for 15 mins ( wen it was only one lane).....it then merged into two lanes so i took the oportunity to get past.

:P:(:blink:. i am terrrified of driving my car now?

I am almost crying due to the experience.

Edited by La Bomba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330315-incredibly-scary-experience/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Thats happened to me before, i cant go full throttle in even in my not so powerfull hr31 in the wet without losing traction and getting sideways.

Depending on how good your tyres are will determine how much control you'll lose/have. A mate at work stacked his r33 in a similar fashion, he was cruising on the freeway and floored it at around 80kmh and when he hit boost he lost control, spun out and went up the embankment, missed a tree by like 2 metres, no surprise when I asked him what tyres he had on he mentioned some ling lang chinese brand shitty tyres.

Tyre tread? I did this in my 32GTS4 auto and scared teh shit out of me. Basically drove 20kmh under speed limit all the way home....

it is actually a non turbo. with a blitz access ecu.

the tyre tread on the inside has been down since i got the tires. my uncle who is a mechanic said to me the other day if he had to do a rego check he'd fail them. they are some no name brand that cost $143 a pop, looked at the service papers and theyve done around 10,000km's.

I never actually thought a car could attempt to spin out while going straight :S!

yeahhh i drove 65kmh home the whole way home. =(

the scariest part was coming a few centimetres from the median strip, which could of resulted in me rolling my car...i am guesing :(. gosh i am so ratled up

Edited by La Bomba

if your worried about your alighnment, get it checked. its not expensive. but i would be looking more at the tyres and pressures. and hey, the road surface was slippery. ive had my 32gtst step out at ~65k's, the reason being craaaap tyres in the wet... and flooring it.

check out the tyres thread :(

if your worried about your alighnment, get it checked. its not expensive. but i would be looking more at the tyres and pressures. and hey, the road surface was slippery. ive had my 32gtst step out at ~65k's, the reason being craaaap tyres in the wet... and flooring it.

check out the tyres thread :(

My car pulls to the left when i let go of the steering wheel.. it has been doing this since i bought it, and its gradually getting worse. so i think that may have been a contributer unfortunately. ie bad wheel alighnment. uncle said the left tire is the worst one. wen the rear slipped out the car headed to the "Right" direction

so is what i did the corectt thing, i corrected the steering to go in the opposite direction to wat the car was heading then slammed on the breaks?

Edited by La Bomba

i dunno, i was listening to an interview with a rally driver(cant remember who now), and he said to correct the steering, but to power out of the slide, and definaetly do not step on the brakes. i got into a 'situation' in my rodeo- slippery roundabout exit, no weight in the back of the ute, at the time i was relatively inexperienced, back end started sliding out- and corrected, kept a bit of power on and the car was just all over the place and i was sliding into the oncoming lane. so i tromped on the brakes and slid off to the side of the road. *shrugs*

maybe someone with a bit of track and rally experience cares to share?

Very advisable to do an advanced driving course, and take your mate as well who damaged his car by hitting a gutter in your other post.

If your Uncle is a mechanic I’m surprised he let you keep driving the car with low tread on the tyres that were not road worthy.

I really hope you do something about your driving skills and make your car roadworthy before you hurt someone or kill them while driving.

Very advisable to do an advanced driving course, and take your mate as well who damaged his car by hitting a gutter in your other post.

If your Uncle is a mechanic I'm surprised he let you keep driving the car with low tread on the tyres that were not road worthy.

I really hope you do something about your driving skills and make your car roadworthy before you hurt someone or kill them while driving.

i stayed in my lane even though i lost traction. so i believe i did okay considering it was the first time something like this has ever happened to me.

However I do plan on doing a training course once i get the money.

Well the car is booked in for a service on thursday and a wheel alignment next week.....so kinda was planning to replace the tires ?

China tyres in the wet are deadly.

I had triangles on my 33GTR (tonnes of tread) 45-50kmh, turned right trying to make the lights, ended up plowing straight on and barely made the turn....

RE my gts4, I had staggered tyres front rear, front lots more tread (read illegal) so that probably contributed heaps....

i dunno, i was listening to an interview with a rally driver(cant remember who now), and he said to correct the steering, but to power out of the slide, and definaetly do not step on the brakes. i got into a 'situation' in my rodeo- slippery roundabout exit, no weight in the back of the ute, at the time i was relatively inexperienced, back end started sliding out- and corrected, kept a bit of power on and the car was just all over the place and i was sliding into the oncoming lane. so i tromped on the brakes and slid off to the side of the road. *shrugs*

maybe someone with a bit of track and rally experience cares to share?

To anyone reading the above, please ignore anything said in the quoted post.

In any scenario where the car starts to oversteer the safest method is to jump on the brakes. Any driver instructor will say the exact same thing. Last thing we want is a bunch of people thinking i'll try and power out of this mess and end up in more problems.

What a rally driver may have said cannot be applied to on-road scenarios as they are completely different. (having done a rally driving course, the goal is to jump on the brakes to shift weight forward and then turn and power, making the front drive wheels pull the rally car through the corner whilst the rear oversteers. This obviously will not work in a rwd car, whereby counter-steering is involved etc)

By steering and powering in a rwd car, you are only continuing the oversteer and any regular driver will just end up spinning out quicker.

Strongly suggest driver training for anyone owning an import and not mention hearsay for the safety of others.

I reckon you hit a big bump in the road, the ass end went up, tyres lost traction, your foot made the revs go up so the auto kicked down and thats why it seemed like it kicked out.

Worse thing you did was jump on the brakes. But at least your alright could have ended up worse. I had it happen to me once, I was just cruising 100 km/h on the freeway and because of stiff suspension I hit a bump and the car jumped onto the water. Best thing to do is to do nothing except steer the car. Although if your going sideways well counter steer :(

EDIT: When I say jumping on the brakes is a bad idea I am referring to aqua plaining as you will lock the wheels up.

It's all relative to how sideways you are. If you are way too sideways to countersteer and regain control you can turn the way you are spinning, this will make you spin around (obviously) but it will also make you lose a lot the momentum you have, whereas counter steering will either keep you going sideways, or kick you back the other way and if you don't catch it you'll be in the same situation.

Go to a skidpan and learn how to countersteer, also learn when you have no hope of countersteering to get out of the slide... The point of no return.

Tapping the brakes can settle the car, too. Just once or twice, don't stay on them too hard.

I reckon you hit a big bump in the road, the ass end went up, tyres lost traction, your foot made the revs go up so the auto kicked down and thats why it seemed like it kicked out.

Worse thing you did was jump on the brakes. But at least your alright could have ended up worse. I had it happen to me once, I was just cruising 100 km/h on the freeway and because of stiff suspension I hit a bump and the car jumped onto the water. Best thing to do is to do nothing except steer the car. Although if your going sideways well counter steer :(

EDIT: When I say jumping on the brakes is a bad idea I am referring to aqua plaining as you will lock the wheels up.

Aquaplanting occurs when water is trapped under the wheel and cannot escape through the tread pattern on the tyres. Due to the water not being able to flow out, it lifts the tyre off the road and hence causes loss of traction to the road.

What you said above makes no sense because aquaplanting can occur when the wheel is spinning.

Unless you have done driver defensive courses whereby the instructor has directly told you that jumping on brakes is the worst thing you can do etc (i would like to speak to him), please do not provide comments/tips on how to react in a situation because any misinformed information can severly affect people once they cross up.

Aquaplanting occurs when water is trapped under the wheel and cannot escape through the tread pattern on the tyres. Due to the water not being able to flow out, it lifts the tyre off the road and hence causes loss of traction to the road.

What you said above makes no sense because aquaplanting can occur when the wheel is spinning.

Unless you have done driver defensive courses whereby the instructor has directly told you that jumping on brakes is the worst thing you can do etc (i would like to speak to him), please do not provide comments/tips on how to react in a situation because any misinformed information can severly affect people once they cross up.

Not trying to be an ass, but I drive 100km on a shitty highway every day (the bruce highway north of the sunshine coast) and when it rains there are spots where you aquaplane all the time. Best thing you can do is hold the wheel straight and let off the throttle, if you brake it can really unsettle the car.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...