Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Just decided to try and clean out my garage in hope of fitting a car back in there one of these days. Below are pictures of each of the items; feel free to ask any questions. I can be contacted via PM, I'm on here most days and will generally reply fairly quickly. Feel free to make offers, you never know!

R33 Genuine Nissan Underbody Plastic - First one i've seen - $40

R33 Standard Front and Rear Swaybars (with rubbers) - $40 for both or $25 each

R33 Open 6 Bolt R200 Diff (4.11 Ratio) - $60

R33 Drive Shafts (6 Bolt to suit above diff) - $40 for both

R33 Washer Bottle (unsure if motors work) - $15

R33 Series 2 Passenger Light (needs to be resealed, cover was taken off for cleaning. Plastic cover has small crack, not visible from front.) - $80

Apexi Boost Gauge 60mm (Fake?) - $30

R33 Stock Suspension Front and Rear (Average Condition) - $50 for all of it

Diff Back Exhaust (Good for Compliance) - $40

R33 Standard Dump / Front Pipe - $30

Standard RB25DET Cams - $40

R33 Maroon Boot Lid (No Spoiler, Lock or Hinges) - $30

T Sport Boost Gauge 52mm (All wiring and boost line Included) - $40

R33 Series 1 Manual ECU - $60

6 x R33 Series 2 Coilpacks (All working when removed) - $80

Pod filter Adaptor (Suit Standard afm?) - $15

Custom PWR Radiator (Thick core, looks mint) - $450

Decided to stick with my standard radiator. Side panels make it easy to mount. Comes with Thermo Fan as shown in pictures. Dimensions of the Radiator are 400 High, 550 Wide to Sidetanks, 700 Wide to Panels and around 60 Thick as pictured.

All of the parts can be picked up from the Gold Coast (Robina Area) or I can post at buyers expense.

Mic

post-57177-1280148390_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148440_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148460_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148469_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148483_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148497_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148511_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148526_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148541_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148557_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148570_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148587_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148604_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148618_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148632_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148646_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148657_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148667_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148681_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148692_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148705_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148722_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148733_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148745_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148760_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148777_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148791_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148806_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148820_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148832_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280148845_thumb.jpg

Edited by Binofski
can you tell me what the thing in the middle of the right hand side end tank of the radiator is? is it a sensor mount or something? and how much use has it had?

The thing in the middle of the right hand side is just another barb which could be used as a spot for a sensor, or simply left with the rubber bung on it. I've attached some pics to give you a better look at it. It was used by the original owner for a few dyno runs while he was tuning, but he replaced it with a thinner saber one which suited him better. So I would say a few weeks use max. Thing comes up like a mirror after a polish.

Mic

post-57177-1280185211_thumb.jpg

post-57177-1280185232_thumb.jpg

Edited by Binofski
  • 2 weeks later...
ill buy the headlight if u can put the cover on for me?

Hey Mate,

I'll take a look at it today and ill get back to you about it. Gotta see if I have sikaflex to put it back together with.

Mic

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Bump

Also for sale Splitfire coilpacks to suit series 2 RB25DET - $400

Headlight is still here, as is PWR radiator

Apexi Boost Gauge now sold.

Cheers,

Mic

Edited by Binofski
Hey Guys,

Just decided to try and clean out my garage in hope of fitting a car back in there one of these days. Below are pictures of each of the items; feel free to ask any questions. I can be contacted via PM, I'm on here most days and will generally reply fairly quickly. Feel free to make offers, you never know!

R33 Genuine Nissan Underbody Plastic - First one i've seen - $40

R33 Standard Front and Rear Swaybars (with rubbers) - $40 for both or $25 each

R33 Open 6 Bolt R200 Diff (4.11 Ratio) - $60

R33 Drive Shafts (6 Bolt to suit above diff) - $40 for both

R33 Washer Bottle (unsure if motors work) - $15

R33 Series 2 Passenger Light (needs to be resealed, cover was taken off for cleaning. Plastic cover has small crack, not visible from front.) - SOLD SOLD SOLD

Apexi Boost Gauge 60mm (Fake?) - SOLD SOLD SOLD

R33 Stock Suspension Front and Rear (Average Condition) - $50 for all of it

Diff Back Exhaust (Good for Compliance) - $40

R33 Standard Dump / Front Pipe - $30

Standard RB25DET Cams - $40

R33 Maroon Boot Lid (No Spoiler, Lock or Hinges) - $30

T Sport Boost Gauge 52mm (All wiring and boost line Included) - $40

R33 Series 1 Manual ECU - SOLD SOLD SOLD

6 x R33 Series 2 Coilpacks (All working when removed) - $80 - Still HERE!

Pod filter Adaptor (Suit Standard afm?) - SOLD SOLD SOLD

Custom PWR Radiator (Thick core, looks mint) - $450

Decided to stick with my standard radiator. Side panels make it easy to mount. Comes with Thermo Fan as shown in pictures. Dimensions of the Radiator are 400 High, 550 Wide to Sidetanks, 700 Wide to Panels and around 60 Thick as pictured.

All of the parts can be picked up from the Gold Coast (Robina Area) or I can post at buyers expense.

Mic

Series 2 Splitfire Coilpacks - $400 in original Box!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
×
×
  • Create New...