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Gts25t Comparable To?


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you mean a Maloo? SS = commodore, Maloo is the HSV one with 317kw.

Also, agreed on the xr6T, yeah they are reasonably quick but you can't just wind up the boost and go for it. Injectors run out pretty quickly, and some internals can't really cope with big power. waste of such a monster turbo really

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comparable to an XR6 or a V6 commonwhore etc........in std trim.

when modded up and pumping out +220rwkw then its comparable to a 2000ish V8 from just about anyone [possibly excepting ferrari Lambo style]

at +250 it is comparable to a 2010 V8 from Falcon or Holden.

It is not really combarable to a GTR, evo or STi etc because they are 4wd, but they do cross paths now and then and it is all a question of driver skill/outright power/and application [drags/circuit/drift etc] as to which one is best.

Your really asking too much - and if you hang around here or search you will find plenty of skyline vs the rest type of threads with countless arguments about who is best and why.

Who really cares, only each individual owner, because on an open road sitting on 100km/h they are all the same........

I have dragged a EA falcon (one of the fastest Falcons_ and a VP Commodore (fastest v6 Commodore) against an unmodified GTS-T and got utterly DESTROYED. Like others said they are comparable to the BA XR6 Turbo or VT-VZ LS1 Commodores, although 9 times out of 10 a VY SS Auto will trounce a manual GTS-T because most people cant drive for shit and Commodores are much easier to drive for average drivers. I'd know i'm an average driver. A current VE SS will beat a perfectly launched stock GTS-T but even a badly launched FG XR6T will easily beat a stock GTS-T.

Edited by FrangaR33
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but the system has a pressure sensor on it and when a certain pressure is reached the system fails and A-LSD gives up (light on the dash) this means it wont ever run the pump again by itself until you reboot the car. driving with the pump running non-stop is Ok and no major issues that i've seen, but on my car it still single span even with pump %100 running. it seems to require a proper bleed and check of the system regulary to make it work. when you do that, it works awesome

How long does it take for the pressure to build up to that error point with the ALSD running at 100%?

Yeah I try and bleed mine every few months nowadays, it's probably my tyres that are letting me down now.

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It's a hard comparison - larger engine capacity will always have the advantage for "easy" power regarless if n/a or turbo.....

By "easy" power - I mean, any mods you make to a larger capacity engine will see more gains.

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PM-R33 if you hard run the pump for about 5 seconds it will fail as it must have a pressure trigger

i can run the pump for 2 seoncds, turn it off, repeat and do this continously and its fine

its only when you leave it on for about 5 seconds that it has a hissy fit

you could hook up a system to make it run the pump for 2 seconds, turn off, 2 sec, off and repeat for ever and it would probably be fine

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PM-R33 if you hard run the pump for about 5 seconds it will fail as it must have a pressure trigger

i can run the pump for 2 seoncds, turn it off, repeat and do this continously and its fine

its only when you leave it on for about 5 seconds that it has a hissy fit

you could hook up a system to make it run the pump for 2 seconds, turn off, 2 sec, off and repeat for ever and it would probably be fine

Ok cheers Paul I will have to have a play around with the setup once the Vipec comes. I just want that rear diff locking as best as it can and preferably prior to breaking traction.

Edited by PM-R33
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if you want it that bad, it might be best just to replace the centre

but it comes at a cost of around 1000 which is the killer

i will try and get my a-lsd shimmed to see how that goes

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it's a normal diff as far as i know

i had diff place pull mine apart as i asked them to dismantle and fix it

and they said there is nothing they could fix (ie it wasnt broken)

they said they could put a new kaz centre in it no problems, but at 1200 no thanks

racepace have said they can shim it but in the vspec diff there is very limited room

not sure but maybe he (racepace) has shimmed vspec differs in GTR's before (not GTST)

as they do tons of track GTRs and no doubt a lot of them would be vspec's with possibly std diff's

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yeah i can run my pump all day and night

it still doesnt guarantee lock

i think the issue is air in the lines or bleeding issue

if i do the bike pump trick as noel said it seems to clear out the demons

and when it locks (i test it in the wet sometimes) the diff is amazing

if you could rig up a way to auto bleed that would be ok

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FYI i've ran against a 317 UTE on a private road upto 180km/h and neither of us could pull away

pretty sure it was a SS R8 Ute new model

Lots of private roads in Oz, RTA hardly have anything to do these days.........

And OP, see what I mean about opinions being everywhere, some say you can and others say you cannot do blah blah, driver car conditions nerve situation all give different results

Bring on the STIG

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A 250rwkw Skyline will flog a standard XR6T (my mate has a sedan), hell my mates standard turbo Supra pulls away from it. I've raced a 300+rwkw BA XR6T sedan and it was fairly even. They really aren't as fast as people make them out to be, they are fairly heavy and the utes have worse traction problems than Skylines have. But yeah, they do make good power very, very easily. But what do you expect from a 4L GT35?

That's one thing I really want to do to my car over the next few years is to setup up the suspension/tyre/diff combination for a hell of a lot more traction as to me this is the Achilles Heel to most GTSTs with power.

as it should ba xr6t has 180rwkw stock and like people said massive diff gears and heavy my mates running 360rwkw good for mid 11's with just the engine stuff done auto, non slicks tyres. no other mods basically( other than engine) so yes they are as fast as people say they are hes curently beating 450rwkw s/c vx clubby

if you have been in an areoplan then you have been in a 350rwkw+ xr6t they have something like 1200nm of torque

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Also, agreed on the xr6T, yeah they are reasonably quick but you can't just wind up the boost and go for it. Injectors run out pretty quickly, and some internals can't really cope with big power. waste of such a monster turbo really

It depends on which model XR6T, the new XR6Ts are making 240-260rwkw standard! Injectors and a tune are not exactly the hardest modification. The engine internals have been fine since the first model or two.

Better then a skyline that you are forced to change/hi flow the turbo to get any serious power! Brings in all sorts of legal issues etc.

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ages ago at a dyno day we dynoed a brand new bog stock XR6T ute mark II or series II which ever it was and it made 209rwkw

6 speed manual turbo ute

it would have been about 4/5 years ago now

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ages ago at a dyno day we dynoed a brand new bog stock XR6T ute mark II or series II which ever it was and it made 209rwkw

6 speed manual turbo ute

it would have been about 4/5 years ago now

Yup that would be about right. BA's were roughly 180, BFs around 200-220, but the FGs I have seen are around 240-260rwkw.

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Yup that would be about right. BA's were roughly 180, BFs around 200-220, but the FGs I have seen are around 240-260rwkw.

Exactly. And with their terrible depreciation they'll be worth $20k in 5 years and an absolute bargain family car with some fun for Daddy. :-P

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My boss has a stock RS4 stagea and raced a XR6 around windy roads. He recons it would creep on him on the straights but it was no match for his four wheel drive around the bends. He didn't know what year it was but he thought it was a new one

And that is a 1620kg wagon with and RB25Det in it LOL. My gtst is quicker than it being 200kg lighter.

Then again the XR6 may not have been trying too hard lol.

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