Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Assuming these are similar to rb26 being solid lifter... however as it also has vct should i assume that it has different length springs on the inlet compared to the exhaust like the r33 rb25 heads?

anyone done cams before on a non turbo r34 neo head before?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330577-cams-for-rb25de-neo-head/
Share on other sites

Aren't the N/A NEO heads super nasty in terms of flow?

I remember seeing pics of a NEO-N/A & a NEO-T and if my memory is correct there was a fairly big difference which would make a non neo a bit nasty ;)

yeah.. but its on there already. might just leave it stock for now.. and change to one of my spare 26 heads later down the track

big difference intake side.. ALOT of meat could be taken out easily. but.. its all assembled and ready to be started.. but was looking at dropping some cams in just for time being.

Aren't the N/A NEO heads super nasty in terms of flow?

I remember seeing pics of a NEO-N/A & a NEO-T and if my memory is correct there was a fairly big difference which would make a non neo a bit nasty :down:

and wow.. just round the standard cam specs on the non turbo neo head in comparison to the others

R32 Skyline RB25DE Camshaft duration 240°in, 232°ex lift: 7.8mm in, 7.3mm ex

R33 Skyline RB25DE Camshaft duration 240°in, 240°ex lift: 7.8mm in, 7.8mm ex

R33 Skyline RB25DET Camshaft duration 240°in, 240°ex lift: 7.8mm in, 7.8mm ex

R34 Skyline RB25DE Neo Camshaft duration 236°in, 232°ex lift: 8.4mm in, 6.9mm ex

R34 Skyline RB25DET Neo Camshaft duration 236°in, 232°ex lift: 8.4mm in, 8.7mm ex

Stock neo turbo cams are ok, but f**king shit on the exhaust side of non turbo :S ! definately goin to run it how it is and throw an rb26 head on it later down the track

  • 2 years later...

Thread Necro but I am in exactly the same position now.

I only really need to change the exhaust camshaft (so no worries about CVT), is there any problem with dropping a 26 exhaust camshaft in? I presume I just need to make sure the CAS has the same spline (ie use the 26 CAS instead of 25).

I can't find any information about the springs or valves being different between rb25de and rb25det neos, although the intake runners are definitely narrower on the DE.

Edited by Sarumatix
  • 4 months later...

thread revival, does any one have any info ^ mentioned above

Thread Necro but I am in exactly the same position now.
I only really need to change the exhaust camshaft (so no worries about CVT), is there any problem with dropping a 26 exhaust camshaft in? I presume I just need to make sure the CAS has the same spline (ie use the 26 CAS instead of 25).

I can't find any information about the springs or valves being different between rb25de and rb25det neos, although the intake runners are definitely narrower on the DE.

Edited by dori33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, does anyone know how I can, or can a moderator remove this advertisement please.  Has been sold a long time ago and would like to remove references. Thanks. 
    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
×
×
  • Create New...