Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 176
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

250km/h for 10 minutes?

start work @ 3 in the morning?

I call BS.

for conversation's sake, a red hot exhaust is fairly normal. I've seen manifolds, turbine housings and dump pipes glow red, but if its anywhere further down the exhaust than that, then you have some serious heat, and a glowing exhaust is the LEAST of your problems...

seems only 1 person knows wot there talking about here, where did i say i was doing 250km/h(someone else said that) 3in the morning: yea i work in a mine u dork. my work is 120km away from my home, all straight with 1 S bend at 112km away from home. and ONLY the manifold was glowing red hot, where did i say the turbo and housing was glowing red hot. you should learn to read and stop being such a wanker. but ur bs still dont explain why its missing and farting. So stop trolling this tread if you dont know wtf your talking about

Edited by innocentdemon

If you're fair dinkum mate, I'd say this;

1. The glowing manifolds is pretty standard after a long hard run, especially visible in the dark. You probably wouldn't really notice them glowing in full daylight.

2. The missing and farting is likely going to be your coil packs failing. As they get old and when they get really hot they tend to open circuit and cause missfiring. If you haven't already done so, removing the cover (covering the coil packs) between the cam covers can alleviate the problem, or at least buy you some time (taking the cover off the coils lets the heat out).

If you're fair dinkum mate, I'd say this;

1. The glowing manifolds is pretty standard after a long hard run, especially visible in the dark. You probably wouldn't really notice them glowing in full daylight.

2. The missing and farting is likely going to be your coil packs failing. As they get old and when they get really hot they tend to open circuit and cause missfiring. If you haven't already done so, removing the cover (covering the coil packs) between the cam covers can alleviate the problem, or at least buy you some time (taking the cover off the coils lets the heat out).

thx.

since its a jap import alot of shops turn me away. would you know of a website i could purchase them from at a reasonable price.

seems only 1 person knows wot there talking about here, where did i say i was doing 250km/h

in your first post you said you were at 6k rpms in fifth gear. in an R32 and R33 the final drive in 4.11:1 and 5th gear is .75:1. at 6k rpms thats 250kmh so STFU. you said yourself, I just repeated it. If you were in an R34, 5th gear is 1:1 ratio so you'd only be going 205kmh, so keep talking about who said what.

LOL @ OP. Snap at people for putting you in your place. Everyone here knows what they are talking about, you're actually the only one who doesn't hence you posted a question :down:

in your first post you said you were at 6k rpms in fifth gear. in an R32 and R33 the final drive in 4.11:1 and 5th gear is .75:1. at 6k rpms thats 250kmh so STFU. you said yourself, I just repeated it. If you were in an R34, 5th gear is 1:1 ratio so you'd only be going 205kmh, so keep talking about who said what.

no you stupid dic i said i was doin 6k revs yes i didnt say the speed, and gear ratio to speed dont mean shit if ur goin up hill and also dont mean shit if your car has done over 400k kms and is a pos, and yes my clutch is a bit worn, and no i dont have a fcken speedo to tell wot speed i was doing, is why i said the revs and not the speed. typical aussie arogant bastards is all you are. i hope you serve to miss a cat and hit a tree. and yes i asked a question. thats wot forums are for you stupid fck. maybe you didnt relise this.

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

For future reference (don't know why I'm helping you to understand, because you really are an arrogant shithead), unless your clutch is slipping something bad...engine RPM and gear ratio are 100% relative to vehicle speed. In a manual, this will not change whether you are going uphill, downhill or sitting on flat road. In an auto the torque converter will alter engine RPM a little but not enough for 6000 friggen RPM in 5th gear. And if that's the case, you have bigger things to worry about than a red hot exhaust manifold lol. Either that or you have an 8:1 diff ratio LOL...

I'm crying with laughter here.

And last i checked he isn't a typical aussie due to the fact he doesnt live in australia... hmmm.. Typical bogan thinking the internet is resricted to australia only..

this thread is completely full of win.. you're a douche.. you dont know shit and you bag out those who do.. go up a hill.. you slow down.. and so does the revs..

And last i checked he isn't a typical aussie due to the fact he doesnt live in australia... hmmm.. Typical bogan thinking the internet is resricted to australia only..

this thread is completely full of win.. you're a douche.. you dont know shit and you bag out those who do.. go up a hill.. you slow down.. and so does the revs..

oh and the first smartarse guy who answered wasnt a aussie? i asked a question, i get stupid answers, my question was serious. i see how you guys treat other ppl.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but it's not as easy as pulling a fuse on anything other than an R32. There's a routine you have to do, involving disconnecting a loom plug and bleeding down the preload.
    • A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible
    • Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time! Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.  
    • I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...
    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
×
×
  • Create New...