Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Just finished reading the whole 20 pages of thread..:)

Top yarn, so pretty much you would recommend from a stock 20' to go for

*power fc

*trust td06 20g 8cm

*greedy mani and wastegate

*stick with oem plenum and cams,few gains from gears?

Just trying to get an idea of what I need to get to around the 240-250kw region,

And am assuming I could probably have a more responsive, snappier setup by dropping down to a 2530? Wouldn't bother dropping the overall power output if it wasn't much more responsive

yep spot on mate. to that list you need to add some injectors, fuel pump, Z32 AFM, good exhaust, front mount intercooler and a decent clutch. and yes it'll be more responsive with a 2530 but no where near the top end hit of the old TD06. probably a faster road car though but less fun on track.

Yep yep do see where your coming from re the turbos. I understand the other things u said ie z32 afm fuel pump, good fmic, just wasnt sure on the main power getters. This may sound like I'm wasting my time but I do love the 20'

My aim is to have a decent car that can switch from circuit to drift with minimal fuss and still perform. Hence why I'm looking for a decentish midrange torque + response so I can fry tyres nice n easy:P.....,,all whilst keeping the rb20

Yeh, a 2530 makes for a nice setup, but I personally think its worthwhile losing 15-20rwkws at 3,800rpm odd to make equal and more power from 4,200rpm. If you are caught in the wrong gear etc the TD06 can be a bit painful...but I feel a TD06 will make for the quicker car all other things being equal around a track, drifting or drags

But the truth is its pretty easy to spend 5k getting a TD06 setup singing so whatever you chose just do the numbers carefully before hand and make sure its the path you want to take.

Thanks for the advice, it will be well -heeded.

Am trying to work of the experience you have here to make life a bit easier for myself but from what you say I think it will be td06....am seriously pondering a kinugawa td06.....

There's just so many trims lol. Sh.sl etc, should I go 20g or 25g and which trim do you reccomend??

I think if you can get a 10cm TD05 exhaust housing then I would grab a kinugawa TD05h-18G and throw 18psi at it. I suspect you may be down 20-25rwkws compared to the TD06-20G but between 245-255rwks would be a good cross between 2530 and TD06-20G. If you get bored of the power just throw a kinugawa TD06-20G on it...but I suspect the 18G could make for a generally faster more reliable RB20

The TD05-18G comes internally or externally gated. If you can stretch the dollars I suggest going the external gate as its my opinion that the RB20 likes an exhaust manifold a lot more then the RB25 as you dont have the extra compression, variable inlet timing and compression the 25 has.

  • 2 weeks later...

Yeh, the Dutton footage was funny. The car had a fair bit of coverage considering it didnt really factor in the placing on the event. One year when Juz was co-driving she got her own 2 min segment which meant the lil R32 got plenty of coverage :)

Right now I am trying to move around dates as I am entered in the SAU Nationals but having wisdom teeth out the Thursday before the event :(

Yeh, the Dutton footage was funny. The car had a fair bit of coverage considering it didnt really factor in the placing on the event. One year when Juz was co-driving she got her own 2 min segment which meant the lil R32 got plenty of coverage :)

Right now I am trying to move around dates as I am entered in the SAU Nationals but having wisdom teeth out the Thursday before the event :(

That sucks man. 2 days is not enough recovery! Unless you plan to anethetise yourself with alcohol all weekend!

  • 2 weeks later...

Was actually looking for something else when i came across this thread....Larv the car Roy and jjjjjesus you have some patience mate...anyway ive been a RB20 fan for years now and after a hard year of working llllong long hours and saving alot my (r32 4 door) goes into a performance workshop tmrw for a replacement engine (20 of course) and a retune with the following goodies - :worship: gtr injectors and resistor pack off of a 2004 nur spec gtr, Z32 air flow meter,apexi power fc, cam gears,FMIC,Bleed valve (4 now), 3inch zorst all the way with 4 inch tip, orc clutch and lightened flywheel,bosch 044 fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and a genuine td05/20g turbo with turbosmart ultra gate and screamer ..I know that the td06 is a better turbo at top end but i chose to sacrifice top end for less lag and more fun sooner rather then the 700rpm to 1000 rpm later..i do have a question tho in regards to cams, i was intending to get tomei pon cams but after reading the whole 20odd page killa read im sorta in 2 minds now as if they will be worth it..? any ideas?

Cheers mate

Edited by rb.20.4ht

Sounds like a sorted package. I personally wouldnt bother with cams. I think std are fine. That said I do have some Tomei 256/8.5mm cams that may get a god in a few weeks when my car finally goes E85. Perhaps they will work, but I suspect I will lose power again.I will be sure to report back either way.

And just got back from the SAU Nationals where the car ran pretty well all day. A few little gremlins that hurt early running but car drive home which is the main thing. I think its time for a compression test to see how the engine is holding up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • have you rotated the car yet? if so how smooth was it?
    • And finally, I had the driver's side airbox off while adding a long drain hose under the oil can to down near the oil filter. Doesn't look good, it has definitely had an turbo oil seal leak and looks like it has been for a long time.....guess I'll have to get a pair of highflows to put on the shelf It's also worth mentioning it has a really strange clamp between the bottom of the airflow meter (which has a big barb/lip on it) and the intake pipe. I've used the magic of MSPaint to show, basically you have to clip out those 2 steel springs which unlocks the hose from the AFM. I used 2 flat screwdrivers, the spring sort of clips into the unlocked position. Reassembly you just pop them both back flat once the hose is far enough up the AFM that the spring clamp is above the barb. Weird to use but much more convenient once your'e used to it compared to trying to do up a hose clamp under the airbox like on 32 GTR
    • The other thing I started was a fire extinguisher bracket.  As with a few other cars previously (350z, Leaf), I'm going to add a bracket between the navigator seat's front bolts, then mount the extinguisher on that. Unfortunately Nissan (probably the same engineer who did the A/T fluid interwarmer) decided that the front seat brackets would be recessed and uneven so the bracket shape was a bit tricky; I ended up doing 1 part under each seat mount (the large hole is because there is a flange under the seat mount to allow for the carpet thickness)   and then a horizontal part between those 2 No final pic yet as the paint needs to dry, I'll post up once that's done  
    • OK, a few half jobs on the skyline this weekend because its booked for a test day at Wakefield Park on 27-Feb. While the Ecutek dongle and app provide display and logging of a heap of engine parameters, they annoyingly don't have access to the auto trans temp. So I grabbed an oil temp gauge from Raceworks which apparently has warning colour change and peak hold, about $95  and their 8mm hose sender adapter Now, I foolishly thought these 2 might work together, but no, the sender needs about 30mm clearance in the fitting and the adapter only had about 8mm. I've cobbled something together with an NPT T piece and blank for now but will try and work out something more permanent as I intend to use the same fitting for the data logger in the future. Under the car, Nissan's engineers decided that only one opportunity for coolant and trans fluid to mix (the radiator) was not enough, and they also added an interwarmer near the sump on the passenger side like the engine oil has: I've cut the hose between the auto trans outlet and the interwarmer inlet and inserted the sender there as that gives the best indication of temp inside the transmission.   From there it is back to the pain of running that sender wire to the cabin, I've run it up near the passenger headlight, into the battery box, across the channel at the back and into the master cylinder area where I ran out of wire length (and patience). Remainder of the job is through the grommet near the accelerator pedal that I've used previously, then across under the dash to where I will temporarily mount it on the console for track days (and remove it other times). The gauge will also need IGN, BAT and earth (I'm not going to worry about illumination as I'll unhook it between track days)  
    • This piece is obscenely discontinued. I honestly hate the frameless window design because the rubber gets stressed and the guides as well every time you open and close the door.
×
×
  • Create New...