Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mate, you are truly a champion for trying out all those turbos. I sincerely hope one of them is perfectly suited to your car! Will keep an eye out on this!

Also don't be frightened to post the results at NS.Com in the Motorsport section - even though it is an RB. I am sure some handy information may be taken in the way the different turbos perform on the same 2.0 engine.

runing water cooling??

Thats the plan. Will start bolting all the fluff on early-mid Feb when Fatz gets his CS's off my car and it gets back to Melb. Waiting for th ebillet turbz...will post pics of it side by side with the TD06-20G and the TD05, T67 and 25G next week

Hey Pete. People sometimes dont bother with running water cooling saying "some turbos only run oil so all is good." But the way I think about it is that the bearing materials, housing design and materials are all designed and selected on the assumption that coolant/water is going to keep the ultimate temperature lower. So if you run them without you may end up with premature bearing failure as a result of running hotter then normal.

Roy, I think its more applicable to ball-bearing. The main problem with the oil only cooling is the premature engine turn off, when temps are high enough to cook the oil inside the cartridge. All the resudue and burnt oil substance will block the passages and do damage to bearings. 10degrees working tempreature difference won't be that noticable compared to shut down without cool down. They would design and choose materials with a lot of stress in mind, including water cooling system damage. On the dayly car or a public transport that would be considerable. But on a modified vehicle. I don't think so.

Just my 2c.

Just run a separate little reservoir with a bilge pump that cycles clean water through the turbo. Put a little open/shut valve on the reservoir and you can make everyone cups of tea after you have done a few hot laps. Simple and effective.

fatz, dont be a hack. I have grabbed a bunch of these so that i can easily change turbos etc without having to dick around with coolant lines going to awkward spots, ditto oil supply line.

http://www.staubli.com/en/connectors/market-solutions/motorsports/dry-break-coupling-sphba/

Just need to work out whether I have enough space for wiggin/racetech clamps on the turbo outlet and make some v-band connectors for the outlet. I have got a Datalogit now so think I am just going to go TD05-1G for street and Winton etc and 73HTA for Sandown, PI and giggles on E85

Yeh, I suspect that none of the turbos I am trying out will be the perfect all rounder. Will see. But since I am getting them all tuned I am just going to save the tunes and use Datalogit to throw the tune in for the setup I have bolted on. Changing turbo is quicker then a brake pad and bleed

Please select a turbo to suit your application haha. Kinda cool.

When are you going to get the tests done ?

Did you have a thought about trying out some other ecus while you are at it ?

Like vipec/link/haltech ? Maybe grab one from somebody to test out ?

You got all the great equipment, why not go further and push to the max.

E85, 4 turbos, best engine management. Who knows what would you be able to push out of the little RB20.

Edited by robots

When the Cosworth gets registered and I get the Skyline back from the work it is having done in Sydney. Probably start in the next two or so weeks. Firstly need to get all the turbos lined up and make sure I have all the fittings etc before I start.

So took some pics of the biggest TD06 exhaust wheel alongside the much loved L2 wheel.

Greddy TD06H-25G

med_gallery_462_50_163304.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_131724.jpg

25G Compressor

med_gallery_462_50_116850.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_76394.jpg

TD06-73HTA

L2 Turbine

med_gallery_462_50_127727.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_218678.jpg

73HTA Billet Compressor by Forced Performance

med_gallery_462_50_36538.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_177446.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_151826.jpg

Side by Side

med_gallery_462_50_113969.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_7215.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_180417.jpg

And this is what happens when you try to run an SH housing on an L2 turbine

med_gallery_462_50_47822.jpg

I am holding off on going back to the std inlet as the new turbos may benefit from the extra flow up high in the revs at higher boost....the place where the Plazmaman is clearly better then std. If all the fuss over billet wheels hold true then I may get back to what I used to have through the mid range with the std inlet.

And yes, I have looked at the EFR turbos. But frankly until they are readily available and stop failing I am going to keep my money in my pocket. Plus, half the fun is playing with these things and seeing if they work or not. I trust that there are going to be dozens of results with the more expensive EFR turbos so will understand the merits of them.

Once I am through this round of testing if none set my heart racing I think I have found another setup to trial which should be good for a punchier 280rwkws. Thats the whole point of this testing...how to make the punchiest 280rwks possible

More than the turbo tinkering. keen to get my car back and further play with the suspension in it. Should be a little nicer with some recent changes, nothing huge but will allow me to move on knowing that suspension is as good as its going to get for a street car...with some little trick bits that nobody else has ;)

Loving this huge thread and Roy I Love my rb20 but I must say dam u love your car man ( in a good way ) rolleyes.gif ...

Anyway I've read this and that posts on here but I have a question before I buy on Sunday and I thought I'd ask someone who actually knows what the fek they are talking about..really.I have a brand new genuine trust td06 sl2 20g 8cm housing & 3inch intake available to me for 1k or a 3071r or td05-20g 8cm 2nd hand but still in good condition..i have used the td05-20g on my old sr20 and that was good from 4k til redline and made 800nm and 220 rwkw at 20.5 psi..I currently have a 33 turbo on my rb20 with everything supporting mod wise to make a big power hike xcept a turbo and that's where this comes in...I dont want the fastest car out there but want good power and hard when it comes on,would like 350rwhp and full boost by atleast 4.5k . I am leaning to the trust td06 but what would be better suited to the RB and would the td05 still be to small and not worth the work when the td06 could go in etc etc and is the wheel in the td05 the same as the td06?.. Also turbo will be going as a external setup with stock mani modified for a 38ml gate.

SORRY NOT HYJAKING YOUR THREAD BUT JUST WANTED A RELIABLE ANSWER thumbsup.gif

Cheers

Edited by Co-stan-za

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...