Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice to have a fresh engine again. New motor makes the same power as the last motor with less boost and earlier. Will put 1,000kms on it and do some coolant and oil flushes and then throw the new turbo on. Hopefully bag another 30-40rwkws and pop 350 :) Should make for an interesting drive at PI next month

How did you freshen it up? Nice to see that a fresh motor makes a difference to the performance. I'm preparing my RB20DET build at the moment. Going to be using a TD06SL2-20G and a Sinco top mount manifold (similar to 6boost) and other supporting mods.

Crazy to see so much power out of a little 2 litre!

Well since I am not in a habit of leading people astray the new engine isnt actually 2L. Um and its not actually an RB20...i can't even bring myself to admit what it is :) Nothing like a self loathing car owner :):domokun:

At least the engine came out of an NA R32 so at least its not as filthy as something from an R33. So its an NA RB25 that has been rebuilt with Eagle rods, Arias pistons and 25 crank. When I throw the cam gears in after easter I will throw my Tomei Poncams in as the NA cams are rather small.

I am looking for some Garret cores so that I can start building the manifolds for the twin setup I want to run. If I am going to go twin low mount lameness I at least want to have some fun fabricating all the bits

Was it still an RB20 (2litre) when you did 306kw?

Yep...1000000% Std unopened RB20 engine that I think came out of an auto Cefiro when i chased back the engine number in FAST

In tank Nismo fuel pump, E85 with ID1000s. Plazmaman plenum with 6boost manifold and 8cm TD06-20G and 45mm Turbosmart gate with R34 GTR Cooler and Z32 AFM with HKS Hyper exhaust. Guaranteed to make at least what my engine did. It was a wrecker engine when I got it and it has since done 60,000kms of 250-310rwkws with a load of track work

If I had my time again I would have kept the std inlet plenum and the Greddy exhaust manifold. The thing had a measurably better mid range and torque. The plazmaman plenum really made it into more of a top end screamer

It would still be going if it wasnt for the heater hose the split under the inlet manifold in peak hour traffic. That engine is going to get stripped down and get slowly built back up with my spare RB26 crank and my RB24 gear for whatever R31 I end up finding

good stuff roy you can be in my crew now. besides i love telling people that my rb25 had far more in common to a rb20 than a 25det. they are a rb20 in evey way bar displacement

any reason you put a rb25det crank in yours?

I didn't put anything in it. I grabbed it as it was cheap for what it was and have no idea about it really. Was nice to that it tuned up well and looks and sounds healthy

I bought it years ago whilst I was in India as I wanted the head in case I ever put my RB26 bottom end in it. When i took the sump off and looked at it it seemed too good an engine to strip so just kept it and threw it in when the RB20 had the overheating problem

Pretty happy with how it turned out. Pretty happy with the power it makes...just to see how it holds up to being raped at the track

398854_10151838547609741_1680740710_n.jp

I hate myself :(

But, the cheapest way I could get the car back on the road ready for a track day was to use a spare engine that was laying around. I grabbed this engine cheap years ago as it was cheap and externally looks like an R32 RB20. Thinking was if I ever get defected then I would put it in with a 2.8L kit and run an XR6 GT35R bolted onto std manifold for legal thrills to clear defects and be stress free

I am going to strip down the lil 20 over the coming weeks and see if it was just a headgasket and if the head and block come back crack free going to slap it back together with a refresh and get some more exprience with building engines.

Then the abomination that sits between my strut towers at present can come out and be sold. Should be easier to sell now that I have had it running and it looks to be a good engine and potential buyer can hear, see and even drive it before removal

I can already tell you I dopnt like the character of the car. It has way more power down low that makes it spritely on the street...but feels flat. People can say it maky be quicker but doesnt have any character or top end pull that the 20 had:( LOL time for a bigger turbo to get some lag back :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
    • Some sense has prevailed! What kind of idiot spends money on intake, heads, and cams for a N/A motor in 2025? Lol. What maroons. Source:I am King Maroon.
    • So, cams are not getting installed......yet  Had a good chat with MX5 Mania about intakes, they recommend not to get ITB's, they recommend a plenum style for the NC So, one of these puppies is being ordered, with a larger TB to suit, when it arrives from the US the car will go in for the cams and intake I'm also getting a fancy rear box bit for the air filter box which will suit the new TB size
    • Clamp meter is pointless. Unless you're trying to keep average current under a set value for some weird reason (maybe you undersized your wiring?), then you'll get no useful info. What you're really trying to target is the flow of fuel coming back to the tank. You want some, but not a lot. You also want to make sure fuel pressure remains stable.   So, fuel pressure gauge, and fuel flow gauge. Set it up from that.
×
×
  • Create New...