Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You feel it because you are bouncing around adn on the long sweeper you are falling out of the seat....anyway. Will post up pics to show why they are shit when it comes out again. Need to go back and do my EVO III Brisasaurus seat rail. (ie for prodigious units)

And a few pics from Sunday, my bus next to a friends new EVO. Kind of mutant cousins, both 2L, silver with black wheels :)

med_gallery_462_50_162614.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_96927.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_221731.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_69486.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_93448.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_101984.jpg

Thanks to Martin for the pics from the weekend...the brakes work well :) ... lap after lap :)

Lap 1

IMG_0306.JPG

Lap 2

IMG_0322.JPG

Lap 3

IMG_0333.JPG

Lap 4

IMG_0338.JPG

The PFC06 pads were really nice when hot. They were a bit grabby when cold which meant I was locking them up pretty often. But when up to temp they were a lot easier to modulate. Seems for the car weight, tyre grip and rotor (cooling) size I need to run a pad which comes up to temp a lot quicker. Also need to get the car's susp setup properly, I have big front ARC swaybar which seems to be unloading the inside wheel when i turn in trailing the brake a little. By the time I start to turn in I am only carrying a little bit of brake but is enough to lock the inside wheel when the big bar ties the sides of the car together and unloads the inside tyre :(

SO need to get the car's ride heights set, rose joints on the front bar set correctly and maybe backed off a little along with a good wheel alignment. has not had one since start of 2009 :)

...and some not so incrimating pics

228770_10150305585434741_606454740_9650135_5224201_n.jpg

225185_10150305585459741_606454740_9650136_5431319_n.jpg

A shudder developed on the last of the few laps i ran at Sandown last weekend. Show up during the little street driving i did and during the firsf session at winton. Took the wheels off and checked everything was tight and nothing had loosened with the first lot of heat cycles. Nothing unusual but was able to nip up a ted. Checked pads and they were badly glazed. Cleaned up the pads and were brilliant from then on.

So maybe i under did the bedding. Or the rainearly on in the running in of pads/rotors. But what felt like warped rotors was just pad glazing.

That tyre end up feeling like you were driving on a 50c piece after the lockups?

I flatspotted mine at the top of 4th, only just touched the brake and jumped straight off when it locked but the damage was already done. Was like driving on a pogo stick around corners from then on :(

Because my lock ups were typically at the endof the braking zone my road speed was pretty low. You normally only badly flat spot tyres when you have some speed on board. i did actually pick up a flat spot the time i grabbed a brake early in the braking area. It probably was the reason it was locking so often afterwards, even when at lower speeds

Hey Roy,

Love the build up, very inspiring, most brisbane and GC based RB20s get pulled out for 25s or 30s, ive always wanted to keep mine, nothing like the work gone int your tho.

Some thougths on your brakes locking up, id say the front needs corner weighting, did it lock the right front on other corners, when it was inside wheel? It maybe that your ride heights are causing corner weights to be far to light on the passenger side causing the lock ups.

How do you find the power, even after all of your experiments, it looks wuite drivable, power band of 4500 to 8000 i doubt you would drop off boost, so shoud be ok. Does it come on too strong for corner exit traction on faster corners in 3rd and 4th or only in 2nd gear lower speed corners?

Keep up the good work, love it. Just wish I had the money to do what I dream of doing to mine.

I want 250rwkw so a healthy 400 flwhp and then suspension and handling more than more power. My goal is for a set of MCA coilovers, I know his son so support should be good, and go from there.

Because my lock ups were typically at the endof the braking zone my road speed was pretty low. You normally only badly flat spot tyres when you have some speed on board. i did actually pick up a flat spot the time i grabbed a brake early in the braking area. It probably was the reason it was locking so often afterwards, even when at lower speeds

I spun the Radical out of turn 3 at EC on slicks with a damp track and flat spotted all 4 tyres. I wouldn't have thought it would have done it so easily but with a bit of speed on board looks like its very easy to do.

Car look fantastic mate :thumbsup:

car looks awesome mate. and yeah brissasaurus racing evo 1 seat rail is still firmly attached to my seat mate. :) fark it's heavy though so if you do go ahead with evo III make me one! I'll actually pay for it this time... :)

ps I still have your koyo radiator here mate. want me to send it? or sell it? etc.

come up and stay at my place for a bit. i'm bored, have spare room and a keg of beer.

Just got approved 8 weeks of paid/unpaid leave. First few weeks will be just winding down, then OS then back relaxing...ready for more headfark projects uopn my return. So early July shoudl be some fun at EC/Wakefield and running amuk on Chateau le Count! :)

Thanks rotort...yeh, i love the lil 20. Yes, its still very drivable. I am a bit disappointed its not more of a wrestle to punt...but truth is its still quicker then me so am still chasing the speed the car has. Re setup, the car had a wheel alignment in Jan 2009, since then it has been in pieces, stored and no idea of ride heights etc. I suspect you are right as it only locks the front left when there is a bit of lock on so could be tied up with the too big a front swaybar with rose joints, ride height etc etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...